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Mt Ninderry

  • Grade context: AU
  • Approach time: 15-20mins
  • Photos: 33
  • Ascents: 4,825

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Summary

Technical vertical faces, pumpy overhangs, stamina routes, boulder problems in the sky, steep cave climbing, this crag has it all. Great summer climbing with brilliant views from the seaside walls.

Description

Sportclimbing at Mt Ninderry began in 2010 with the now-classic Nitroglycerin. Prior to this occasional parties ventured up the odd trad route, though this activity went largely unrecorded. Many of the new climbs are sportroutes while some are ''adventure sport'' with varying rock quality and trickier routefinding. A handful of long slings are handy and a 60m rope will suffice for most routes.

Access issues

Mt Ninderry is an access sensitive area. Please car pool to minimise parking problems (lots of parking at the highway turnoff). There have been complaints so please be quiet and respectful. There is a steep rough track from Tinarra Close which delivers you near The Caves. Track behind the mango trees at the top of the war memorial gardens. Alternatively, the land atop Ocean Vista Drive is now under Sunshine Coast Council ownership as part of the Mt. Ninderry reserve. Use the turning circle at the end of the road and park up on the grass verge on the mountain side of the road. Spread cars out as much as possible. Better still, park 50m back up the street on the shoulder adjacent the steep embankment. Don’t use the carparks in the turning circle. Be respectful and low key. In particular, use QUIET voices on arrival and on the walk-ins - noise travels. Don’t linger over beers or cooking up noodles after climbing and definitely NO OVERNIGHT STAYS. Don’t urinate in front of houses (yes there’s been complaints!). This is a peaceful residential neighbourhood, so we want to be good stewards of climbing. The 15 min walk brings you out near Enter the Ninja arête.

Approach

Approach is easiest from the Ocean Vista Drive cul-de-sac, however Tinarra Close is also an option up a steep track behind the war memorial garden (behind the mango trees). If using Ocean Vista please car pool (lots of parking at the highway turnoff) and avoid parking at the end of the street. There’s a few spaces back uphill adjacent the steep embankment which avoids parking directly in front of a residence. Locate the track with the locked gate (locked for vehicles - foot traffic O.K) at the end of the cul-de-sac. Follow this for roughly 15mins gently uphill through some long grass and under the canopy of the trees. 30m beyond the big boulder veer L over log. Stay on the main, worn walking track until you reach the cliffs, you should be at the Enter the Ninja arete.

Ethic

Wear a helmet, use a stick clip, be safe and tread lightly and quietly. Be careful of the grass trees and orchids. Don't impinge upon potential trad routes with new bolts. Respect tagged projects and the individuality of existing lines. And please dispose of human waste properly!

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