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Routes in The Eastern Seaboard

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Showing all 17 routes.

Grade Route Gear style Popularity
Unknown

The route to the left of Boaty McBoatface, shared anchor with Boaty. Hangers are easily seen near the top but extend to approx 15 below the Boaty DBB station where another DBB exists in good condition to belay from. Can also be used as a descent route (another 20m or so) to the ledge just above the start of pitch two for Just Add Water from Octopuses Garden. If rapping down this way be aware the pull down runs the risk of snagging your rope in trees halfway down and another rap from a tree or a longish walk around is still needed to get back to Octopuses Garden if your gear is there.

Sport 30m
17 Boaty McBoatface

Proud arete with some refreshing exposure. From rings at the southern edge of the access gully, head up the slab to a ledge where the arete starts. Climb the overhanging (left) side of the arete on great holds until you run out of arete and mantle to top out finish.

FFA: Neil Jenman, 18 Jul 2018

Sport 18m, 9
17 I'm an anemone

Start in the middle of the south wall of the gully. Bouldery start into slabby fun before heading up the right side of the arete. Tops out to the same rings as Boaty McBoatface.

FFA: Neil Jenman, 9 Sep 2018

Sport 12m
18 Sea Monkey's Uncle

Start up the black streak to the right of I'm an anemone, at the bottom of the corner rap from the summit. Slabby climbing to it's own set of chains.

FFA: Neil Jenman, 9 Sep 2018

Sport 12m
19 The Bermuda Triangle

Top route in the access gully.

FFA: Kenny Walker, May 2016

Sport 15m, 5
21 The Mariana Trench

Lower steep route in the access gully. Belay bolt on ledge.

FFA: Kenny Walker, May 2016

Sport 12m, 4
2 Chossy McChossface (LHV)

The airy scramble that will get you to the DBB at the base of Boaty McBoatface if you've just climbed Just Add Water or are at the overhung climbs with fixed ropes. Nuts etc optional as if you climb it right the rope and trees will protect any unexpected falls. Though you might like to sling the trees for comfort, but please minimise damage to them. This is the better option than the right hand variant as there's less/zero chance of hailing rocks onto your belayer, and you wind up at the DBB for Boaty.

Trad 15m
4 Chossy McChossface (RHV)

The right hand variant, going straight up. This is far more risky as a scramble and just generally a less than ideal way to get up to the upper section of the crag, as there's a lot of loose gravel and rock that you can and likely will kick down towards your belayer. They can either belay from anchors at top of Just Add Water, or from in the boulders underneath the overhang. At the top of the gully you'll find the belay bolt for the Mariana Trench at about chest height. Belaying from here is not ideal, a better option is to use a draw/biner to help redirect the rope and keep it up and away from the loose rock, so that you can belay from tree or gear to the left near base of Sea Monkey's Uncle.

Trad 20m
26 No Holds Barred

The flake feature on the the left hand end of the steep wall. Fun and sustained climbing.

FFA: Bernie Walsh, 5 Jun 2016

Sport 15m, 6
Master Bates (Alex’s open proj)

Will be hard! Alex has done all the moves so it goes. Give it a crack!

Sport
Roger the cabin boy (Bernie’s open project)
Sport
Captain Pugwash (Ross’ open project)

Takes the hard R to L undercling to headwall. Looks classic and hard!

Sport
26 What the Sea Wants, the Sea Shall Have

Diagonal crack to arete. Hard start requiring an attentive belay past the first 3 bolts, leading to the steep arete.

FFA: Kenny Walker, Jun 2016

Sport 12m, 6
26 Rhyme of the Ancient Mariner

R end of main wall. Semi-hanging belay on ledge. Punchy boulder problem start. Tricky all the way to the chains.

Set: Kenny Walker

FFA: Kenny Walker, Nov 2016

Sport 12m, 7
23 Seaman Staines

Short prominent arete R end of the wall. Clip the low first bolt then start R in the corner. Explosive movements with long tosses and stiff climbing.

FFA: kenny

FA: kenny, Aug 2020

Sport 10m, 4
22 Random route

Below Seaman Staines in little cave, thread the feature then clip one fh before squirming out to the anchors. Can rap in or easy scramble down/out to left.

Sport 7m, 2
16 Blurred Vision

A mini adventure route up the corner on the far right of the terrace. Easiest to access by fixing a line to the right end of the fixed rope and lowering to an anchor on the edge. Climbing gingerly right below the loose stuff and up the wall, following the corner and then the arete.

FFA: Bernie Walsh & Susy G, 9 Jul 2017

Sport 12m, 5

Showing all 17 routes.

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