Caves Area

  • Grade context: AU
  • Approach time: 30 mins
  • Photos: 2
  • Ascents: 2,177




Winter sports virtually all-day shade while in summer some routes see afternoon sun. Due to the complex architecture, a diverse style of routes can be found, though steep is generally the rule. Peregrines stifle climbing and development here between July and Dec. Hungry mozzies also like to hang around depending on conditions so bring some spray! Routes read L to R.

Access issues inherited from Mt Ninderry

Mt Ninderry is an access sensitive area. Please car pool to minimise parking problems (lots of parking at the highway turnoff). There have been complaints so please be quiet and respectful. There is a steep rough track from Tinarra Close which delivers you near The Caves. Track behind the mango trees at the top of the war memorial gardens. Alternatively, the land atop Ocean Vista Drive is now under Sunshine Coast Council ownership as part of the Mt. Ninderry reserve. Use the turning circle at the end of the road and park up on the grass verge on the mountain side of the road. Spread cars out as much as possible. Better still, park 50m back up the street on the shoulder adjacent the steep embankment. Don’t use the carparks in the turning circle. Be respectful and low key. In particular, use QUIET voices on arrival and on the walk-ins - noise travels. Don’t linger over beers or cooking up noodles after climbing and definitely NO OVERNIGHT STAYS. Don’t urinate in front of houses (yes there’s been complaints!). This is a peaceful residential neighbourhood, so we want to be good stewards of climbing. The 15 min walk brings you out near Enter the Ninja arête.


Ten minute walk from the Ocean Vista Wall around the SW side of the mountain.

Ethic inherited from Mt Ninderry

Wear a helmet, use a stick clip, be safe and tread lightly and quietly. Be careful of the grass trees and orchids. Don't impinge upon potential trad routes with new bolts. Respect tagged projects and the individuality of existing lines. And please dispose of human waste properly!



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Grade Route

Small wall to a burly little roof and mantle. Quite fun as a warm up, and an enjoyable miniature piece of climbing. 4 FHs to chains

FFA: Jerome Gobel

Runout after second bolt, but still quite fun. Shares anchors and last bolt with Have another Home Brew

FFA: Jeff MC

Climbs well pity it's rubbish rock. Needs a good day of cleaning and sorting out of the clusterfuck of bolts.

FFA: Glen Foley, Jun 2011

Up the steepest part of the cave. Start at the faint 'A' on the wall with low first bolt.

FFA: Kenny Walker, Oct 2011

FFA: Rob Saunders, 23 Feb 2014

Link up. Begin up A to the 4th bolt, then follow the steep underbelly across SS and GASS (3rd clip of each) to finish up last 2-3 bolts of SR. If instead you keep going R and finish up QR (black corner) it's Getting Buck (Right) at low-end 26.

FFA: Ross Ferguson, 16 Mar 2014

An alternate finish to to the Getting Buck link-up, fnishing up QR instead of SR.

FFA: Lee Cujes, 5 Apr 2014

Starts just right of A. Easy for a few bolts (a little chossy, be careful), then a sustained section of bouldering leading to a pumper finish. Probably the best rock in the cave.

FFA: Nate Foster, Jun 2011

Up QR for two bolts, then L through the steep bulge. After the boulder problem continue a bit L to share holds (tho not the top bolt) and anchors with SS. Rope twisting anchors, consider using SR rings out R instead to finish and lower from.

FFA: Glen Foley, May 2011

Climb QR to fourth bolt, and instead of heading right along the big feature, go straight up through the roof and overlap. Pumpy moves lead to a hard throw to hidden finishing jug. Better and more sustained than QR.

FFA: Ross Ferguson, 8 Feb 2014

Starts a couple of metres to the left of SLAM. Juggy for the first 3 bolts. High clip in the roof, and a great sequence of bouldering leading out right onto big 'ledge feature. Work your way up and right on jugs to a pumpy finish in black crack/corner. High anchor over the top.

Set by Glen Foley, 2011

FFA: Ross Ferguson, 26 Jan 2014

R hand route in cave (L of manky crack). Very poor rock

FFA: Daniel Farquhar, Jun 2011

R of the manky steep crack. Excellent climbing with a few hard sections. Joins TSSS at its last bolt. 23 if climbed the original method of moving right through steep fingery crux.

FFA: Jerome, Aug 2011

“Despite appearances all the holds are bomber... I challenge you to pull anything off!” - J. Make him a wager. Enjoyable climbing on big, nicely moulded holds.

FFA: Jerome, Jul 2011

BoP LH finish.

A very proud line with classy climbing that follows TSSS to the anchors, veers R, then straight up aiming for the beautiful orange headwall and arete at the very top of the cliffs. Veer R up the final arete, ignore the distracting bolts just to the left. A few things to note: 1. To climb with minimal drag backclean the first bolt, use extenders for last BR and anchors on TSSS (or clip the last bolt on Tim Burton Tunnel and backclean the TSSS anchor). 2. It’s not possible to lower to ground from final anchors using a 60m rope so clean this climb in two pitches or use a 70m rope. Climb named with respect for the peregrine falcons that nest close by, so as much as this is a great climb, it should only be climbed outside of the falcons nesting season.

FFA: Jerome Gobel, Mar 2012

FFA: Alex Coombes, Nov 2010

Steep continuous jugging! Stickclip high first bolt in roof. Follow FH's (60cm sling on third bolt) right across jugs, before heading straight up to the anchors on slab.

FFA: Jerome Gobel, Mar 2012

The continuation of Pneumotharax past 3 more bolts through orange bulge to anchors. You can also access this by climbing TT to its third last bolt and heading right into this climb at the ledge (rope probably runs better this way).

FFA: Jerome Gobel, Jul 2013

Climb Pneumothorax past its first two bolts, extending both. Then clip the RB of Tick Typhus, following its three dimensional tunnel until the angle eases. From here, step right to clip the anchors of Pneumothorax. Not an independent route, but quite enjoyable in its own right!

FFA: Matt Schimke, 10 Nov 2019

Starts up P for two bolts (use long slings), and climb straight up to U bolt (long sling again). Continue up 3D corner to small ledge above on the right. Make a move back left and tackle the steep black corner (avoid moving way out right at last bolt into no mans land) to chains over the lip.

FA: Matt Schimke, 5 Aug 2014

Links the beginning of Vertigo into last bolt of Pneumothorax. Sling a protrusion on the traverse. Not an integral route in it's own right but a linkup of the easiest sections of both routes.

FA: Patrick Simon & Fraser Pocknee, 14 Jun 2014

Starts 3m R of Pneumothorax in hollowed out cave.

FFA: Jerome Gobel, Mar 2012

3m L of NA. Up runout, easy jugs for three ringbolts (long slings). Pull L into steep runnel and thug up to the base of 50 degree overhung headwall (grade 18 to here). The permadraw hanging over the lip points the way. A hard and direct boulder problem to the blind (and tiny) hold over the lip. Difficult moves are followed by a mantle onto the lip hold. A great sequence of bouldering in a super exposed position, only slightly spoilt by the fact that there’s tempting easy ground off L (not in). Hard to grade. 18 V7? Save your rope and clean from the permadraw and leaver-biner. Rebolted December 2013.

FFA: Lee Cujes, 18 Feb 2012

Easy to find; it’s the biggest roof on the mountain. Much less intimidating than it looks from below. Start 6m L of at the tree. Prepare yourself for some adventure-sport climbing! Take the time to get the rigging right for this one or you won’t be able to clip the anchor due to drag. Doable with a single rope if you use LOTS of long slings. Easy ramble to the roof. Punch the juggy roof, turn the lip and if you’ve done everything right you’ll be able to pull rope for the anchor clip Impossible to clean from the anchor, so back-jump the roof and lower-off. Rebolted Dec 2013.

FFA: Lee Cujes, Sam Cujes & JJ O'Brien, 4 Feb 2012

Slab to headwall to exposed step-around to techy corner. A bit of everything! If you're up for the adventure it's not to be missed. Top bolt very loose on anchors. Hand tighten and put your draws next to the bottom bolt until someone can come with a spanner (loctite or lock washer please).

FFA: Jerome, Sep 2011

Starts on higher terrace just right of Slab past three bolts under roof. Monkey out and through on huge holds. Take the left side of the arête past a harder move, then slab headwall.

FA: Lee, Sam Cujes & John O'Brien, 30 Dec 2013

Fun steep monkeying on amazingly solid funk! Committing and rewarding. Start on chossy shelf a metre to the left of TOAGSW on U bolts. Move left a move at fourth bolt, and make sure you don't miss the fifth bolt (use a long quickdraw), which is hiding above one of the rooflets.

FA: Matt Schimke & Terry Forbes

Closed Proj. Shares first 3 bolts of Korova then up the bulging face right of the corner past another 4 bolts, left under the block at the top, to the anchors of Toils.

Set by

Great limestone-esque climbing up face and corner L of flying buttress. Good route but take a rappel device for the last climber as the anchors are mallions that twist the rope so a rappel is advised. Will be fixed in due course.

FFA: Cameron Fairbairn, Jun 2011

Easy past a few bolts, then hard resistance climbing with minging crimps and wide spans. At the 5th bolt move naturally R into Nitro for a few moves then back L to the 6th. The route sticks to the face so the back wall is off limits until you're at the chains. Likely 29 if you’re under 5’9” and cant reach the matchbox - Umbi.

Set by Kenny Walker

FFA: Kenny Walker, 8 Apr 2015

First 5 bolts of SNP, then logically R into the business section of Nitro. Hard crimpy V5 boulder problem into grade 24 climbing.

FFA: Kenny Walker, May 2012

Already a classic.

FA: Jerome, 1992

FFA: Jerome, Aug 2011

Really cool low dyno (unless you're Long-arms Schimke), then a baffling upper crux which can be solved with some knee-trickery. Hard to grade as the sequence is short, but hard/bizarre. It goes without saying the chalked holds out right on Harvey Wallbanger are not in. 7 ringbolts to anchors. Rebolted December 2013.

FFA: Lee Cujes, 5 May 2012

Easy to begin then steep white wall to black headwall. Traverse L at the obvious slopey break, then up past last bolt to enjoy engaging moves to chains.

FFA: Kenny Walker, Jun 2011

R side of Nitro Wall. Begin under bulge. Use some longer runners in first half. Above 5th bolt climb direct up cracked face and avoid the choosy scramble up the pillar out L (subtract a grade this way). Keeps punching all the way to the chains!

FFA: Kenny Walker, May 2012

These 2 routes can be found in a completely seperate area from the previous routes... On an isolated pillar where the track rounds the southern point of Ninderry between Ocean Vista and The Caves. Look for the tiny cave with bolts above it. Hard bouldery start followed by a few intersting sections. Use long runner on 3rd. Air-y climbing up arete to chains out L.

FFA: John 'Deadly with the Ladies' Davies, Jul 2011

Variant finish to DWA. At the roof hand traverse R along the lip then crank for the top. Powerful moves and a tricky mantle. Wildly exposed fun climbing which deserves to be more popular.

FFA: Kenny Walker, Jul 2011


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