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The Gallery

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Description

the climbs start left of the waterfall a big stacked boulders

Access issues

Winter and after a lot of rain can restrict access to some boulders. If you are coming from a long way away check weather leading up to your climbing.

Approach

The Gallery is about 100m past Flaky Wall is a semicircle of boulders around a plaza. This is the main waterfall but, frankly, it could disappoint if you've seen Iguazu. Head down main path from Upper Falls Car Park until you reach an overlook position of the main creek (about 150m from carpark). That main flat area directly in front is the gallery and can be accessed from above and below. It is a shorter walk to the right (above) but steeper.

Routes

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Grade Route

Stand start with hands inside vertical crack. Move to the big horizontal edge at half way height then make a massive move to the top.

Stand start matched on big hold. Make a big move out right to the large rail before making yet another big move to the sloping arete. Mantle up and top out.

Stand start on good holds on the arete and climb the arete to the top.

Stand start on good side pull Make a move to the arete and climb before making a final move to a blind hold at the top. A nice bail boulder to the right if you need it.

An instant classic of the area. Sit start with left hand on arete and right hand in crack. Head up through crack and a vertical edge at the top and top out.

On the boulder facing you one level below the main waterfall area. Sit-start with low left hand and right-hand on good edge. Move up along the diagonal aréte with feet on the face, right hand to the high-right jug and mantle onto the top slab where things aren't quite over yet.

FA: Ben Dickson, 4 Nov 2018

Stand-start onto the face with no hands. Hop up to the final jug of Buzzing and onto the slab above

FA: Ben Dickson, 4 Nov 2018

Up the dihedral on the right end of the boulder

FA: Ben Dickson, 4 Nov 2018

Start low on the obvious rail. Choose your own adventure on semi-decent (semi-exploding) crimps to the lip. RH Arete is out.

Set by Nick Miguel Ducker, 19 Dec 2016

The zigzag crack LH side of the wall to a gritty exit

FA: Edward Johnstone

FFA: Paul Badenoch & Edward Johnstone, 1999

Start in the cave beneath the higher boulder and gain the crack above the cave.

FA: Ryan Rodertson

FFA: Luke Adams & Ryan Rodertson, 1986

Start as for MM but head up the corner.

FFA: Mark Pearsons, 1997

The bottomless corner 1m R of Meet Me Tonight then the clean wall just R of Jean A.

FA: Paul Badenoch, Paul Gray, Mark Witham & Chris Oerman, 14 Sep 2019

Start as for Slab and Tickle, but at the botanical ledge at 1/3rd height step left to finish up the lichen-free crack line

FA: Ben Dickson, 4 Nov 2018

The middle of the mossy Undercut Slab follow up 2m R from the corner

FFA: Nick Neagle, 1994

The diagonal small crack on the slab finish up the vertical crack

FFA: Mike Ashton & Peter Leach, 1997

Low start under Eau D'ear, with left hand deep in back of the triangular "cutout" visible in topo, and right hand on positive corner just above the undercut. Pull on, adjust left hand and make some bizarre moves to gain the slab, and top out easily as for Eau D'ear

FA: Petey Pete, 25 Jun

Another undercut start up to a seam then L to a small corner.

FFA: Mark Pearsons, 1997

Groove-like feature up face left of Verve boulder (right of stream). Can have water underneath it depending on time of year.

FA: Redanon, 2006

Perfect highball line approx 4m right of the waterfall starting from a good jug in the middle of the face. Take left hand seams to a cruxy top out.

FA: Red2, 8 Jan 2017

Start low and left of the "roof" (slab). Move up and right, then left and top out the slab.

FA: Andy, 19 Dec 2016

Same start as Bruce, except traverse into "The Sport of Golf" and finish up on the slab

FA: Nick Miguel Ducker, 19 Dec 2016

Start low in the features, move up onto the rail below the slab and top out the slab.

FA: Nick Miguel Ducker, 19 Dec 2016

The cleft on the L

FFA: Peter Kraehenbuehl, Jim Roberts & Kate Murrie, 1987

The centre crack.

FFA: Mike Ashton & Peter Leach, 1979

The grisly offwidth on the R

FFA: Mike Ashton & Peter Leach, 1979

Around the arete L of WS is a short, wide crack leading to an easy angled ramp corner.

FFA: Mike Ashton & Peter Leach, 1979

The south facing crack follow the rising diagonal to the steep, thin crack where the fun begins to the ramp top out though ATO

FA: Grant Tode, 1985

FFA: Nick Neagle & Paul Francis, 1987

The very high proud standing arete. Climb the arete to the top. Serious highballers apply!

Situated right next to the Arete Attack project. Sit start with left and on crimpy on arete and right hand on edge. Climb the arete and top out.

FA: Cristobal, 2016

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Activity

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