Ascents in Murraylands

Tricky start - blew it - fortunately landed in the rose bush

this one had me stumped for a while - stoked to jam to the top

Nice jams. Crumbly bits

Unable to lead this - had to figure out crux on top rope - crux beta unexpected- need to repeat

Dyno’d to avoid bird poo

Started up Runner Up and crossed over into FET when pro became available. Had a rest at horizontal before balancy crux.

Fist jams

Nice to belay from the horn

Have a feeling this is Yabro, moves felt much more in line with grade 18, either way good climbing on both routes.

Weird start. Wish there was better top anchor spots.

Unsure if this the same Yabro as in the guide book, agree with Laurence the moves felt around 21/22 where as the route left of this felt around grade 18

Wormed up this bad boy lots of fun

Gear is a bit thin but thats ok

This is AMAZING. I need to work on that roof move, but I ALMOST did it (on TR of course). I'll top rope it a few more times but I can actually see msyself trying to redpoint this in the near future — bloody exciting. What an awesome route. Gotta figure out good protection for crux... There should be enough gear. The top is in the bag, and the start is tricky but I reckon I figured it out. Would I do it on lead? We'll see...

This route really makes the drive here pay off! A sunny but WINDY AS HELL (I honestly reckon 40+ knots) day while it was pretty wet in Adelaide, so pretty awesome. One of the bolts of the neighbouring grade 23 route is well in reach after the crux, so I clipped it as I didn't have good enough reasons to give the paramedics Plus the gale was making me barndoor heaps here. Possibly my windiest ascent ever! I'm ok with the critics coming hard on my ascent because of that — if I lead it again I'll try to avoid that bolt (no promises though). Especially if it's not windy.

The gear is actually great (except for some meters before the top), and the following are my own personal notes for next time (SPOILER ALERT, you only read the below if you want, and if you are reading this you are not planning a purist onsight anyway I guess):

mid to small cams for the start, then #4 (extend heaps) and #3 (extend a bit) under the roof, and a #5 at the crux make it all ultra safe. A #1 after the crux is the first bomber piece, and a #2 in a flaring crack after is probably good enough. Then there is section with no gear. Small cams and nuts at the top.

Good fun, felt slippy at times but the gear is good and cool movement

Not very nice needed a bit of a clean

Likely not 17 if you know how to jam but i guess the fist crack is a bit tricky

Finally (and the beta I needed was in the guidebook the whole time)!

Must have missed the holds that make this is an 18. Seems about V3/22R, no gear til the problem is over. An enjoyable highball boulder.

Due to its proximity to other lines I suspect this may already be established. No chalk or gear placements so it could not be a trad line. Seemed around V3/4. Quite a sustained line til you get 1m from the top.