Grade Route Gear style Popularity Crag
Unknown
20 Snapper

Hanging crack on the terrace below EL. Thin start with poor gear; hence the name.

FA: B Aikman & Dave McGregor, 2019

Unknown 9m Orroral area
21 Turnpike

Thin finger crack and bulge on terrace below DM.

FA: B Aikman & Dave McGregor, 2019

Unknown 10m Orroral area
17 Didi Mau

Short, sharp finger crack on the Uraken terrace.

FA: B Aikman & Dave McGregor, 2019

Unknown 6m Orroral area
Trad
22 Kandahar

The overhanging fist crack on the platform above Deadwood.

FA: 2020

Trad 8m Gibraltar and Corin Road
16 Rumble Fish

Climbs the soaring chimney on the approach to Innocence.

FA: B. Aikman & D. McGregor, Sep 2014

Trad 20m Gibraltar and Corin Road
10 Cleaning The Pipes

Start from either 3rd or 4th (right) belay bolt, passing 1st bolt of Drank The Slab and following the parallel left-leaning cracks on good micro RPs to 3rd bolt of DTS. Finish up GM or WNWN.

FA: Chris Bennetts-Cash, 2014

Trad 15m Canberra
19 Outward Bound

The fist crack immediately right of UFC. There is an old 6lb honey tin cached at the base of the crack that contains instructions for an outward bound group that failed to make this check point sometime in the early 60s. Please don't remove as they may still be out there.

FA: 2020

Trad 12m Gibraltar and Corin Road
13 The Broom Closet

Clean, cool three sided chimney with two corner cracks. On the north side of the outcrop, find the narrow chimney and squeeze through, walking 10 metres deeper to the wider start. Medium gear belay and scramble down into the middle of the outcrop.

FFA: Matt Rogerson & James Rogerson, 9 Jan 2019

FA: 9 Jan 2019

Trad 16m Gibraltar and Corin Road
16 Fargo

The squeeze chimney between 'Rumble Fish' and 'Agent Orange Victim'.

FA: B. Aikman, D & McGregor, Sep 2014

Trad 10m Gibraltar and Corin Road
16 Karate Kick

FA: Andrew Cadogan-Cowper, 25 Jul 2020

Trad 8m Pierce's Creek
17 Why Does It Always Rain On Me

The short but interesting finger and hand crack on the left end of the main wall.

FA: Damian Jovanovic & Oliver Story, 10 May 2014

Trad 8m Gibraltar and Corin Road
13 Puffed pastry

The flake crack in the eastern gully below bakers dozen

FA: Andrew Cadogan-Cowper & Ryan Macpherson, 24 May 2020

Trad 5m Pierce's Creek
12 Groove Candy

The deep V groove 20m right of UFC.

FA: 2020

Trad 10m Gibraltar and Corin Road
13 The Broom Closet

Clean, cool three sided chimney with two corner cracks. On the north side of the outcrop, find the narrow chimney and squeeze through, walking 10 metres deeper to the wider start. Medium gear belay and scramble down into the middle of the outcrop.

FFA: Matt Rogerson & James Rogerson, 9 Jan 2019

FA: 9 Jan 2019

Trad 16m Gibraltar and Corin Road
16 Inner Outlaw

First climb you come to. Start is the crux. Twin cracks then follows the main crack upwards to the ledge. Next pitch has little/no pro.

FA: Andrew Cadogan-Cowper, 29 Sep 2019

Trad 16m, 2 Gibraltar and Corin Road
20 ODub Shenanigans

Right of 'Running Flush' there is a slot down in between the large boulders, through a small hole that puts you in a courtyard platform in the middle of the cluster of boulders. On the right side (facing the valley) in the open courtyard you will find a short, overhanging off width crack. Take a 3, 4, 5 and 6 Camelot to protect. Trad belay and easy walk off. Feisty little number!

Set: Duncan Brown, Nov 2016

FFA: Duncan Brown, Nov 2016

Trad 10m Orroral area
3 Yayco

Hand crack up the Polish split egg (rap off each side). The boulder is about 15m back from the top of 'Agent Orange Victim', and can be accessed by walking up the gully to the right of it then ducking left through an overhang.

FA: Marcin Pius & Daniel Gordon, 17 May 2014

Trad 6m Gibraltar and Corin Road
16 Heel, toe, slide

The offwidth crack

FA: Andrew Cadogan-Cowper & Ryan Macpherson, 24 May 2020

Trad 5m Pierce's Creek
16 A Time of Gifts

The hand/fist crack left and round the corner from UFC.

FA: 2020

Trad 10m Gibraltar and Corin Road
20 AID:A0 Pegasus

A steep, meaty offwidth start (point of aid) leads to a great hand crack to be top. Same belay as The Broom Closet.

FA: Matt Rogerson & James Rogerson, 9 Jan 2019

Trad 13m Gibraltar and Corin Road
20 Inside Job

Layback the thin corner flake to the left of Inner outlaw and a fun 2nd pitch! Very small gear with one bolt to save a ground fall

FA: Ryan Macpherson, Sep 2019

Mixed trad 10m, 1 Gibraltar and Corin Road
20 ODub Shenanigans

Right of 'Running Flush' there is a slot down in between the large boulders, through a small hole that puts you in a courtyard platform in the middle of the cluster of boulders. On the right side (facing the valley) in the open courtyard you will find a short, overhanging off width crack. Take a 3, 4, 5 and 6 Camelot to protect. Trad belay and easy walk off. Feisty little number!

Set: Duncan Brown, Nov 2016

FFA: Duncan Brown, Nov 2016

Trad 10m Orroral area
32 Vertigo

Finally freed but still popular as an aid climb, hence double bolts at the top of the wall. The impressive overhanging crack on the valley side. Up the crack to the fork and take the right-hand crack to the top. Also popular as a commercial abseiling site.

FA: Norm Booth & Lincoln Hall, 1972

FFA: Daniel Fisher, Sep 2019

Trad 36m Orroral area
17 Nice Day for a White Wedding

Perfect hand crack.

FA: Sarah Truscott & Damian Jovanovic, 24 May 2014

Trad 15m Gibraltar and Corin Road
15 Hop Harigan

FA: 2020

Trad 7m Gibraltar and Corin Road
17 The Girdle Traverse: Extended Dance Mix

The second longest route in the ACT, and one of the longest in Australia. Probably just less than 500 metres, but potential over that if you get lost along the way.

The description for this is basically as per "The Girdle Traverse", but add a lot more climbing to the end to make the route traverse the Northern Buttress in its entirety.

Traverses the 'North Buttress' from right to left at a fairly even standard, if you don't get lost... (see various topos). Start below the prominent chimney of 'Roderick' ('Cave wall' lower tier).

When the Original traverse gets to "Denethor" continue traversing left across the Northern Slabs past the second rap station of "Counterbalance" ", the second last belay of "Equilibrium", the last belay of "Hands Free", then traverse an unknown line left under an overlap to join "Sunstroke" halfway through its last pitch, continue left and finish up the last pitch of "Drunken Delight".

This was done in a bunch of mostly rope stretching 50+ metre pitches, in 10 pitches in total. It could be done in many other pitch combinations so just follow your nose and belay wherever seems appropriate for you.

It may be a girdle link up, BUT this makes for a stellar day out on a great wall and is the closest thing to a big wall free route that you could hope for in the ACT. Well worth a long, fun day out!

FA: Duncan Brown & Ray Spencer, 23 Apr 2017

Trad 500m, 10 Orroral area
18 Mosul Offensive

50m left of Tower of Power, a clean steep wall immediately right of the deep chimney (GGG). One bolt to start then up trending left through steeper terrain on good gear. DBB at the top.

FA: Matt Rogerson, zac, dave & dave, 22 Dec 2016

Mixed trad 18m, 1 Mt Coree area
15 The Riddle

The same pair of pants were worn by both leader and second on the first accent of this outstanding, if somewhat wide arching test piece. Start at the short fist crack behind the large fallen tree, up and then left into 15 metres of memorable off-width. Take the largest cams you own, a 4 adequately protects the start of the offwidth. Scramble off.

FA: Matt Rogerson & James Rogerson, Jan 2019

Trad 20m Gibraltar and Corin Road
16 End of Innocence

Diagonal groove with two bolts right of 'Billy Bonkers'. A #3 Camalot in the groove protects the bouldery start (or stick clip first bolt). Up grove past 2 bolts to ledge, up short corner then pull left to finish on broad ledge as for '72 Virgins'. Gear after the bolts: Camalots from #0.5 to #3 and a couple of extender slings .

FA: Dave McGregor, David Anderson-Smith & Geoff Fraser, 19 Oct 2014

Mixed trad 15m, 2 Gibraltar and Corin Road
18 Fish in a Barrel

Thin diagonal crack with narrow ramp using finger locks and lay-aways to ledge. Finish up weakness to triple bolt belay as for Faint Hearted or alternatively hand crack finish to Broken Window. Small cams helpful to protect crack to ledge.

FA: D Anderson-Smith & D McGregor, 6 Apr 2014

Trad 13m Gibraltar and Corin Road
19 Piano Man

Hand and finger crack.

FA: Damian Jovanovic & Sarah Truscott, 24 May 2014

Trad 12m Gibraltar and Corin Road
21 Green Dragon

A hand traverse along a crack under a roof, using all sorts of old-school tricks. To reach it wander 20m right of Lay Lady Lay, past a square-cut mossy slab and round the corner to a wall capped by a large overhang. Scramble up to the right end of the wall to start at the entrance to a cave. Take camalots 1-6, with doubles in the large sizes.

FA: Oliver Story & Daniel Gordon, 2013

Trad 20m Orroral area
20 Wicked Witch of the West

Start on the block above the third pitch of Determinant, or at DBB level with the start of the crack.

  1. 20m (18) Up the left crack on the left side of the buttress to DBB as for Yellow Brick Road. (Once upon a time, this was YBR).

  2. 40m (20) Initially as for Yellow Brick Road to second bolt, then go left to a third bolt. Straight up from here.

FA: 1974, Keith Neil, John Fantini, Jamie Valdivia, Oliver Story & 1974-, 2015

Mixed trad 60m, 3 Orroral area
15 Wombats in the Mist

Starts in the overhang with several rising cracks on the left. A bouldery move to gain the main face, then easier ground but spaced protection to the top.

FA: Andrew Cadogan-Cowper, 24 May 2020

Trad 12m Pierce's Creek
20 Eel

The curving off-width.

FA: 2020

Trad 15m Gibraltar and Corin Road
12 Gristle Groper Gully

The big chimney 50m left of Tower of Power. A surprisingly clean and charming adventure.

FA: zac, noel, Matt Rogerson & dave, 22 Dec 2016

Trad 18m Mt Coree area
12 The Life Subterranean

The mirror image of TLA. Climb the easy crack in the chimney at the back of TLA boulder. Access via a scramble, or the descent from TLA.

FA: Matt Rogerson & James Rogerson, 8 Jan 2019

Trad 13m Gibraltar and Corin Road
17 Billy Bonkers

The short, easy (relatively) off-width corner right of '72 Virgins'. Up corner, traverse right (#4 or #5 Camalot with long sling) into 'End of Innocence' and finish up this.

FA: Dave McGregor & Geoff Fraser, 19 Oct 2014

Trad 15m Gibraltar and Corin Road
23 Hearts and Bones

Place a good wire with a stick, then launch up the overhanging podded crack. When the lower crack ends, move left into the more regular handcrack. Wires and cams for the first half, a few #2 and/or #3 camalots for the upper crack.

FA: Damian Jovanovic & Justin Ryan, 12 Jun 2014

Trad 18m Gibraltar and Corin Road
20 Bananas in Pyjamas

A comparatively direct and well-protected route up the left side of the central slabs. Take a light rack and plenty of quickdraws. Start 20m left of Outer Limit, just left of the access rope for the Snickers Wall ledge.

  1. 20m (16) Easily up the broken slab past a few bolts to belay next to a 2m spike below a corner.

  2. 25m (20) Straight up the fused corner past a few bolts until the overlap. Through the overlap at the jug (good gear), stand up and clip a bolt. Slab up then right to DBB as for 'Outer Limit' P1.

  3. 15m (18) Directly and carefully up from the belay on holds and scoops (as for 'Jubilate Direct Start'; small wires provide protection four metres up). Continue to the upper ramp. Right along this to DBB.

  4. 40m (19 or 21) Step right and up the short corner, then traverse left again above the belay to your choice of two variants - right (B1, 21) or left (B2, 19). B1 and B2 merge after about 15m. Either way slab up, trending slightly right following the bolts, until you reach a DBB. From here go horizontally right to the last pitch of Outer Limit, or continue up and right another 8m to a second DBB, directly below the start of Dry Route. Finish up Rooty Hill, Dry Route or Outer Limit. B1 variant has a direct start: step left and crank up from the belay past a bolt (pre-clip from the belay), and continue up B1.

FA: Jamie Valdivia, Daniel Gordon (P1-3); Jamie Valdivia & Enzo Giuarino (P4 B1); Enzo / Jamie (P4 B2), 2014

Mixed trad 100m, 4, 7 Orroral area
21 Boneseed

Off-width 150m NE of summit boulder

FA: B Aikman, 2020

Trad 7m Pierce's Creek
20 From Cafeine to Crack

Hand crack on isolated boulder.

FA: 2020

Trad 8m Gibraltar and Corin Road
13 The Number-Crunching Karma-Tart

Fantastic hand crack in a chimney. Hi Oli

FA: Sarah Truscott, Steve Kloske & Damian Jovanovic, 13 Dec 2014

Trad 10m Gibraltar and Corin Road
24 No Country for Old Men

A good line that despite its proximity to other climbs somehow seems to have escaped attention - possibly because it fades out in the middle of nowhere below the top. The thin crack line 8 metres left of Dancing and Desire (walk right about 130 metres from Dead Horse Gap to just right of a detached pillar). Climb the finger crack and twin cracks to stance in niche. Continue until the crack fades out then some thin crystal cranking follows past 3 bolts before joining the final crack. Easily up this to double bolt belay on a large boulder at the back of the ledge (where there is natural gear and walk off!). Gear up to .75 Camalot. (Save a #6 rock and 0.5 Camalot for the final crack after the bolts).

FA: Dave McGregor & Bjorn Aikman, 18 Nov 2019

Mixed trad 27m, 3 Orroral area
22 Broken Window

The overhanging hand to fist crack, broken by a ledge, on the downhill side of the boulder. Flaky rock - take care.

FA: Phil Georgeff, 1987

FFA: Oliver Story, 2013

Trad 15m Gibraltar and Corin Road
21 Heartbreak Hotel

Fingers. Double finger-sized cams and a few wires.

FA: Oliver Story, Marcin Pius & Daniel Gordon, 17 May 2014

Trad 18m Gibraltar and Corin Road
19 Kiss the joy as it flies

The crack.

FA: Andrew Cadogan-Cowper, 18 Oct 2020

Trad 9m Gibraltar and Corin Road
21 Miles Apart
1 18 45m
2 21 55m

Start as for Jubilate.

  1. 45m (18) – Up a short crack to a bushy ramp (optional tree belay here). Up the flaky corner right of the belay tree. Continue straight up where it divides to gain the right-trending v-corner. Jam, grovel or bridge your way up this. Exit onto the slab and up past two bolts to trad belay out right. Variant, better but harder: start up Double Canasta to the ledge.

  2. 55m (21) – Up the rounded wall past two bolts to a scoopy ledge (gear). Head up and right to a shallow vertical layback flake. Exit the top of this (crux, bolt) to reach better holds. Follow your nose up and slightly right to eventually join ‘Closer In’ at the top of the pitch. Nine bolts all up.

FA: Oliver Story & Jamie Valdivia, 10 Dec 2017

Mixed trad 100m, 2, 9 Orroral area
17 Send it, Jimmy

Quality hand jams heading right up the line.

FFA: James Rogerson, Matt Rogerson & Jamie Hackett, 10 Feb 2019

Trad 10m Gibraltar and Corin Road
6 The First Echidna

The low-angled crack that might pass as a climb, with a few gear placements under the leaves. Belay with care. To descend either traverse the ridgeline to rap station on The Seventh Hedgehog, or down climb.

FA: Toby Story & Oliver Story, 2014

Trad 10m Gibraltar and Corin Road
17 Harvest

The off-width corner crack left of Skarsen.

FA: B Aikman & G Butler, 2015

Trad 12m Orroral area
17 Woodcutters

The fist crack splitting a boulder up high. Reach the start via a somewhat complicated scramble up the gully and choked boulders. Bring two or three #4 camalots, a #3, and a couple of finger/thin hand pieces for the belay.

FA: Carl Godfrey, Jamie Valdivia & Oliver Story, 2014

Trad 8m Gibraltar and Corin Road
22 Dogleg Crack

As the name suggests.

FA: 2020

Trad 15m Gibraltar and Corin Road
14 Reverence

The most obvious, and easiest way to the top. Still, the gear is tricky in the top half, and be very careful of crumbly rock.

FA: Andrew Cadogan-Cowper, 29 Aug 2020

Trad 7m Pierce's Creek
23 Us and Them

The obvious start to Illusionary lines. Wide fists and laybacks up the corner to to a mantle. Finish up Illusionary Lines.

You could finish up Chopper at around gr20

FA: Dane Evans, 1 Dec 2018

Mixed trad 15m, 3 Orroral area
19 Rogue Drone Down

The line 2 m right of Send it, Jimmy, finishing on the arete. Packs a lot into a short climb. From the ground, get a large nut into the seam then pull hard onto the wall and up the right trending crack.

FFA: Matt Rogerson, James Rogerson & Jamie Hackett, 10 Feb 2019

Trad 10m Gibraltar and Corin Road
15 The Mysterious Case of the Sandstone Princess and the Teeny Tiny Tampon

Miniature version of Hipster Billy's 'The Life Aquatic'. Squeeze chimney protected by hand crack, take #2 - #5 camalot and a finger sized one for the top out.

FA: Sarah Truscott, Steve Kloske & Damian Jovanovic, 13 Dec 2014

Trad 10m Gibraltar and Corin Road
20 Vice Squad

The off-width three meters right of Live Injection

FA: B Aikman, 2019

Trad 12m Orroral area
15 All at Sea

From the 3rd belay on Denethor, move past the start to the Ivory Coast crack, then follow the rising, featured scoop with good gear, to the barren slab. Straight up the steepening slab to shallow grooves and the large flake for some welcome protection. Around right or over the flake to the top.

FA: John Wilson, Geoff Gardiner & Robert Douglas, 18 May 2014

Trad 45m Orroral area
25 Non Caffeinated Organism

In the open courtyard inside the cave complex before scrambling up to ' Stepping Out'. On the southern side of the open courtyard. Bolts and gear up the wall and huge hanging boulder to a trad belay on top.

Scramble up and start from the top of the boulder that creates the halfway ledge on the left side of the route. Belaying from the ground level of the cave is best. Place a low cam and then lean out to clip the bolt, pull out onto the face and hard, technical crimping out to the right leads to a delicate slab to the top.

The direct start past one bolt from the ground level is now an open project - all yours if you want it!

FA: Duncan Brown

Set: Duncan Brown, Nov 2016

FFA: Duncan Brown, 23 Mar 2019

Mixed trad 20m, 6 Orroral area
21 Puffing Billy

The imposing overhanging corner crack. Bridge up the right hand wall for a few moves on positive face holds, then into the overhanging hand crack. The angle eases off a little for the offwidth / layback finish. Camalots to #5, with doubles of #1-#3. A #6 camalot can be pre-placed with a stick to protect the start.

FA: Oliver Story, Cam Zachreson & Chris Ling, 8 Jun 2014

Trad 18m Gibraltar and Corin Road
20 Spartacus

The prominent offwidth corner crack on the southern side of the main outcrop facing Sentinel Rocks. Well protected with tube chocks and larger camms.

FA: B.Aikman & D.Anderson-Smith, 2013

Trad 15m Orroral area
14 Void

Chimney right of DC. Protected by wires and small cams in the horizontal breaks.

FA: 2020

Trad 15m Gibraltar and Corin Road
15 The Journeymen

The clean cut corner crack 30m uphill from Faded Youth

FA: B Aikman, D McGregor & G Butler, 2019

Trad 6m Orroral area
25 Non Caffeinated Organism

In the open courtyard inside the cave complex before scrambling up to ' Stepping Out'. On the southern side of the open courtyard. Bolts and gear up the wall and huge hanging boulder to a trad belay on top.

Scramble up and start from the top of the boulder that creates the halfway ledge on the left side of the route. Belaying from the ground level of the cave is best. Place a low cam and then lean out to clip the bolt, pull out onto the face and hard, technical crimping out to the right leads to a delicate slab to the top.

The direct start past one bolt from the ground level is now an open project - all yours if you want it!

FA: Duncan Brown

Set: Duncan Brown, Nov 2016

FFA: Duncan Brown, 23 Mar 2019

Mixed trad 20m, 6 Orroral area
19 Sling Blade

A nice fingery flake-crack. Take a bunch of small cams in the yellow alien to purple camalot range. Tree belay well back.

FA: Chris Ling & Cam Zachreson, 7 Jun 2014

Trad 12m Gibraltar and Corin Road
14 Crixus

The offwidth come squeeze chimney 8m east of Spartacus.

FA: B.Aikman & D.Anderson-Smith, 2013

Trad 15m Orroral area
19 Terrapin

Clean cut offwidth 50m east of DC.

FA: 2020

Trad 8m Gibraltar and Corin Road
20 Rust

The offwidth left of Powder Finger.

FA: B Aikman, 2019

Trad 10m Orroral area
17 Big-mouthed Bass Crack

An amazingly clean and sustained hand crack. Take a green cam or two for the start, then plenty of reds.

FA: Cam Zachreson, Oliver Story & Chris Ling, 8 Jun 2014

Trad 10m Gibraltar and Corin Road
19 The Wellerman

Perfect hand-crack with undercut start.

FA: 2020

Trad 10m Gibraltar and Corin Road
18 72 Virgins

The good looking double crack/flake right of "why does it always rain on me". Unfortunately a large flake on the route is loose (all the large blocks on the ground were trundled by hand). Deemed "not worth dying for" by the discoverers, it received a first ascent by a team of keen young suicide bombers. Be careful with the last big flake in the upper crack until the Billy Billy OH&S dept. gets around to trundling it.

FA: Ben Young & Chris Elliot, 19 Jul 2014

Trad 15m Gibraltar and Corin Road
17 The Trapeze Swinger

In the atrium behind the main climbs. Consider pre-placing your first piece of pro.

FA: Andrew Cadogan-Cowper, 8 Jun 2020

Trad 9m Pierce's Creek
20 Ferntree Gully

Flared off-width 200m north of DC.

FA: 2020

Trad 15m Gibraltar and Corin Road
9 Playdough

The other side of the Duplo flake. Start and slab finish are the same.

FA: Andrew Cadogan-Cowper, 26 Dec 2018

Trad 15m Orroral area
23 Trojan

The central off-width.

  1. 35m (23).

  2. 15m (15) (loose block at top of pitch 2).

FFA: B. Aikman & G. Butler (Alt), 2014

Trad 50m, 2 Orroral area
19 Arthropod

The flake crack on the wall down and right of Void.

FA: 2020

Trad 15m Gibraltar and Corin Road
9 Feeling Lucky?

The chimney 3m left of Magnum Force.

FA: B Aikman, Nov 2018

Trad 12m Orroral area
19 Furry Floss

Opposite the Empty Step slab a thin crack leads to a ledge. Slab and mantle past a bolt to the top. Bouldery crux may make for a tricky onsight. First couple of ascents used small wires, BD3-5. Take cams, BD0.3-1 to belay off at the top. Scramble down the back to get off.

FFA: James Lister, Nov 2016

Mixed trad 10m, 1 Orroral area
17 One for the Road

This is on the back side of the boulder beside the walking track, 150m downhill from the lookout and opposite the handrail(!?). Corner crack to crumbly jugs at bulge.

FA: Geoff Gardiner & Geoff Fraser, 6 Apr 2014

Trad 8m Gibraltar and Corin Road
18 Brutus

The off-width / squeeze chimney between Afterburn and Evil Ways.

FA: B.Aikman, 2013

Trad 10m Orroral area
15 Binary

Good with or without the boulder backstep. This nice looking finger/hand crack 30 metres below and left of Headhunter. Climb the crack for 8 metres then finish up the easy slab. Walk off back to log belay. Gear to blue #3 Camalot.

FA: Greg Butler & Dave McGregor, 4 Nov 2020

Trad 15m Gibraltar and Corin Road
13 Punk

The right leaning chimney capped by a large chockstone.

FA: B Aikman & Dave McGregor, Nov 2018

Trad 15m Orroral area
22 Cold in July

The prominent corner crack with flared start.

FA: B. Aikman & D. McGregor, 13 Jul 2014

Trad 15m Gibraltar and Corin Road
19 The Enforcer

The flared hand crack in the alcove 30m down hill from Magnum Force.

FA: B Aikman & Dave McGregor, Nov 2018

Trad 7m Orroral area
18 Grimace and Shuffle

The offwidth in the atrium area

FA: Andrew Cadogan-Cowper, 13 Jun 2020

Trad 10m Pierce's Creek
17 The Northern Express

Now the longest route in the ACT at over 600 metres. An awesome low commitment adventure and perfect on a sunny Winter day.

Start up 'Melmoth' and then reverse 'The Girdle Traverse: Extended Dance Mix' all the way to join 'Hermes' and up this route then climb the scrubby gully and some 4th Class scrambling above to top out at the summit of the mountain.

The First Ascent was done mainly simul climbing in 4 huge pitches but it can be done in as many pitches as you need or are comfortable with as there are many options along the way for belays.

FFA: Duncan Brown & Ryan Macpherson, 16 Jun 2019

FA: Duncan Brown & Ryan Macpherson, 16 Jun 2019

Trad 600m, 4 Orroral area
20 Wabi Sabi

If you happened to bring natural pro here's a route to stick it in, finishes up Plan B

FA: Scott Young, 2013

Trad 20m Mt Coree area
16 Bogong Rising

A well protected outing on good gear. Start at the lowest point in the buttress, move up easily past the two blocks and then with more difficulty past two bolts to gain the flake. Up this, then traverse left into the right facing corner and on to glory. DBB shared with Rock On.

Set: Matt Rogerson

FA: Matt Rogerson, 5 Sep 2015

Mixed trad 25m, 2 Mt Coree area
15 Slab and Slither

The slab and minor offwidth crack at top.

FA: Andrew Cadogan-Cowper, 13 Jun 2020

Trad 10m Pierce's Creek
17 The Kid

Wide-ish layback crack. Take two #4 cams and a double sling for the top. To find it, walk 50m left along the cliff from Groundhog Day. You’ll find it on the opposite side of a clump of boulders.

FA: Carl Godfrey & Oliver Story, Feb 2018

Trad 7m Gibraltar and Corin Road
17 The Northern Express

Now the longest route in the ACT at over 600 metres. An awesome low commitment adventure and perfect on a sunny Winter day.

Start up 'Melmoth' and then reverse 'The Girdle Traverse: Extended Dance Mix' all the way to join 'Hermes' and up this route then climb the scrubby gully and some 4th Class scrambling above to top out at the summit of the mountain.

The First Ascent was done mainly simul climbing in 4 huge pitches but it can be done in as many pitches as you need or are comfortable with as there are many options along the way for belays.

FFA: Duncan Brown & Ryan Macpherson, 16 Jun 2019

FA: Duncan Brown & Ryan Macpherson, 16 Jun 2019

Trad 600m, 4 Orroral area
17 Oops I Did It Again!

Nice hand and fist crack with an interesting finish.

FA: Nick Brown, Jamie Valdivia & Enzo Giuarino, 6 Jul 2014

Trad 8m Gibraltar and Corin Road
16 Grandad's Big Day Out

Has an entertaining and unusual move in each pitch.

Start at the 2nd belay of Equilibrium.

  1. 18m - Step left 4m and climb the corner in the overlap (as for Tachyon). Spot the thin flake on the next overlap, at about 1 o'clock. Easily up the slab to belay near the flake.

  2. 14m - Climb the very thin slightly overhanging flake (strenuous) to the higher slab. Move right along the top edge of the flake for about 5m then up the third overlap to belay. Watch out for loose rock above the last overlap. Pitches can be combined but rope drag can be a problem.

Update (2019): the top of the flake on P2 is cracked and likely will come off with a big tug.

FA: brian mattick & Peter Cunningham (alt), 2013

Trad 32m, 2 Orroral area
18 Luminosity

Difficult moves to get started before easier terrain. Gear from silver to red cams with a few bigger pieces for the belay.

FA: James Lister & Andrew Cadogan-Cowper, 11 Aug 2020

Trad 8m Pierce's Creek
17 V14 Crimp Ladder

Up the crack in the middle of the wall. Great gear to a DBB.

Set: Matt Rogerson & Tom Breadon, 13 Feb 2016

FA: Matt Rogerson, 13 Feb 2016

Trad 15m Mt Coree area
20 Apostate

The flake crack 50m W of the summit boulder.

FA: B Aikman & Dave McGregor, 2019

Trad 7m Pierce's Creek
22 Christmas in July

A little bit of everything. Stick clip the first bolt. Up face to undercling, swing round the arete, up the crack and finish with a slab. Trad belay on the opposite side of the boulder. Gear to red camalot.

FA: Oliver Story & Carl Godfrey, 13 Jul 2014

Mixed trad 15m, 3 Gibraltar and Corin Road
18 Hands Free

A balancy, exposed climb unfortunately marred by too much lichen. Start at the 2nd belay of 'Bird of Prey'. Take long slings to reduce rope drag.

Move left from the belay, then up and right to the slab above the belay. Climb right below the overlap then down and around the prow and up the slab until it’s possible to pull up left onto the higher slab. Easier climbing diagonally left to join Ephemeros at the 2nd belay (about 20m away).

FA: brian mattick & Robert Douglas, 2013

Trad 35m Orroral area
17 V14 Crimp Ladder

Up the crack in the middle of the wall. Great gear to a DBB.

Set: Matt Rogerson & Tom Breadon, 13 Feb 2016

FA: Matt Rogerson, 13 Feb 2016

Trad 15m Mt Coree area