Grade | Route | Gear style | Popularity | Crag | |
---|---|---|---|---|---|
Unknown | |||||
20 | Snapper
Hanging crack on the terrace below EL. Thin start with poor gear; hence the name. FA: B Aikman & Dave McGregor, 2019 | 9m | Orroral area | ||
21 | ★ Turnpike
Thin finger crack and bulge on terrace below DM. FA: B Aikman & Dave McGregor, 2019 | 10m | Orroral area | ||
17 | Didi Mau
Short, sharp finger crack on the Uraken terrace. FA: B Aikman & Dave McGregor, 2019 | 6m | Orroral area | ||
Trad | |||||
22 | ★★ Kandahar
The overhanging fist crack on the platform above Deadwood. FA: 2020 | 8m | Gibraltar and Corin Road | ||
16 | ★★★ Rumble Fish
Climbs the soaring chimney on the approach to Innocence. FA: B. Aikman & D. McGregor, Sep 2014 | 20m | Gibraltar and Corin Road | ||
10 | Cleaning The Pipes
Start from either 3rd or 4th (right) belay bolt, passing 1st bolt of Drank The Slab and following the parallel left-leaning cracks on good micro RPs to 3rd bolt of DTS. Finish up GM or WNWN. FA: Chris Bennetts-Cash, 2014 | 15m | Canberra | ||
19 | Outward Bound
The fist crack immediately right of UFC. There is an old 6lb honey tin cached at the base of the crack that contains instructions for an outward bound group that failed to make this check point sometime in the early 60s. Please don't remove as they may still be out there. FA: 2020 | 12m | Gibraltar and Corin Road | ||
13 | ★★ The Broom Closet
Clean, cool three sided chimney with two corner cracks. On the north side of the outcrop, find the narrow chimney and squeeze through, walking 10 metres deeper to the wider start. Medium gear belay and scramble down into the middle of the outcrop. FFA: Matt Rogerson & James Rogerson, 9 Jan 2019 FA: 9 Jan 2019 | 16m | Gibraltar and Corin Road | ||
16 | ★★ Fargo
The squeeze chimney between 'Rumble Fish' and 'Agent Orange Victim'. FA: B. Aikman, D & McGregor, Sep 2014 | 10m | Gibraltar and Corin Road | ||
16 | ★ Karate Kick
FA: Andrew Cadogan-Cowper, 25 Jul 2020 | 8m | Pierce's Creek | ||
17 | ★★ Why Does It Always Rain On Me
The short but interesting finger and hand crack on the left end of the main wall. FA: Damian Jovanovic & Oliver Story, 10 May 2014 | 8m | Gibraltar and Corin Road | ||
13 | ★ Puffed pastry
The flake crack in the eastern gully below bakers dozen FA: Andrew Cadogan-Cowper & Ryan Macpherson, 24 May 2020 | 5m | Pierce's Creek | ||
12 | ★ Groove Candy
The deep V groove 20m right of UFC. FA: 2020 | 10m | Gibraltar and Corin Road | ||
13 | ★★ The Broom Closet
Clean, cool three sided chimney with two corner cracks. On the north side of the outcrop, find the narrow chimney and squeeze through, walking 10 metres deeper to the wider start. Medium gear belay and scramble down into the middle of the outcrop. FFA: Matt Rogerson & James Rogerson, 9 Jan 2019 FA: 9 Jan 2019 | 16m | Gibraltar and Corin Road | ||
16 | ★ Inner Outlaw
First climb you come to. Start is the crux. Twin cracks then follows the main crack upwards to the ledge. Next pitch has little/no pro. FA: Andrew Cadogan-Cowper, 29 Sep 2019 | 16m, 2 | Gibraltar and Corin Road | ||
20 | ★ ODub Shenanigans
Right of 'Running Flush' there is a slot down in between the large boulders, through a small hole that puts you in a courtyard platform in the middle of the cluster of boulders. On the right side (facing the valley) in the open courtyard you will find a short, overhanging off width crack. Take a 3, 4, 5 and 6 Camelot to protect. Trad belay and easy walk off. Feisty little number! Set: Duncan Brown, Nov 2016 FFA: Duncan Brown, Nov 2016 | 10m | Orroral area | ||
3 | ★ Yayco
Hand crack up the Polish split egg (rap off each side). The boulder is about 15m back from the top of 'Agent Orange Victim', and can be accessed by walking up the gully to the right of it then ducking left through an overhang. FA: Marcin Pius & Daniel Gordon, 17 May 2014 | 6m | Gibraltar and Corin Road | ||
16 | ★★ Heel, toe, slide
The offwidth crack FA: Andrew Cadogan-Cowper & Ryan Macpherson, 24 May 2020 | 5m | Pierce's Creek | ||
16 | ★★ A Time of Gifts
The hand/fist crack left and round the corner from UFC. FA: 2020 | 10m | Gibraltar and Corin Road | ||
20 AID:A0 | ★ Pegasus
A steep, meaty offwidth start (point of aid) leads to a great hand crack to be top. Same belay as The Broom Closet. FA: Matt Rogerson & James Rogerson, 9 Jan 2019 | 13m | Gibraltar and Corin Road | ||
20 | ★★ Inside Job
Layback the thin corner flake to the left of Inner outlaw and a fun 2nd pitch! Very small gear with one bolt to save a ground fall FA: Ryan Macpherson, Sep 2019 | 10m, 1 | Gibraltar and Corin Road | ||
20 | ★ ODub Shenanigans
Right of 'Running Flush' there is a slot down in between the large boulders, through a small hole that puts you in a courtyard platform in the middle of the cluster of boulders. On the right side (facing the valley) in the open courtyard you will find a short, overhanging off width crack. Take a 3, 4, 5 and 6 Camelot to protect. Trad belay and easy walk off. Feisty little number! Set: Duncan Brown, Nov 2016 FFA: Duncan Brown, Nov 2016 | 10m | Orroral area | ||
32 | ★★★ Vertigo
Finally freed but still popular as an aid climb, hence double bolts at the top of the wall. The impressive overhanging crack on the valley side. Up the crack to the fork and take the right-hand crack to the top. Also popular as a commercial abseiling site. FA: Norm Booth & Lincoln Hall, 1972 FFA: Daniel Fisher, Sep 2019 | 36m | Orroral area | ||
17 | ★★★ Nice Day for a White Wedding
Perfect hand crack. FA: Sarah Truscott & Damian Jovanovic, 24 May 2014 | 15m | Gibraltar and Corin Road | ||
15 | Hop Harigan
FA: 2020 | 7m | Gibraltar and Corin Road | ||
17 | ★★★ The Girdle Traverse: Extended Dance Mix
The second longest route in the ACT, and one of the longest in Australia. Probably just less than 500 metres, but potential over that if you get lost along the way. The description for this is basically as per "The Girdle Traverse", but add a lot more climbing to the end to make the route traverse the Northern Buttress in its entirety. Traverses the 'North Buttress' from right to left at a fairly even standard, if you don't get lost... (see various topos). Start below the prominent chimney of 'Roderick' ('Cave wall' lower tier). When the Original traverse gets to "Denethor" continue traversing left across the Northern Slabs past the second rap station of "Counterbalance" ", the second last belay of "Equilibrium", the last belay of "Hands Free", then traverse an unknown line left under an overlap to join "Sunstroke" halfway through its last pitch, continue left and finish up the last pitch of "Drunken Delight". This was done in a bunch of mostly rope stretching 50+ metre pitches, in 10 pitches in total. It could be done in many other pitch combinations so just follow your nose and belay wherever seems appropriate for you. It may be a girdle link up, BUT this makes for a stellar day out on a great wall and is the closest thing to a big wall free route that you could hope for in the ACT. Well worth a long, fun day out! FA: Duncan Brown & Ray Spencer, 23 Apr 2017 | 500m, 10 | Orroral area | ||
18 | ★ Mosul Offensive
50m left of Tower of Power, a clean steep wall immediately right of the deep chimney (GGG). One bolt to start then up trending left through steeper terrain on good gear. DBB at the top. FA: Matt Rogerson, zac, dave & dave, 22 Dec 2016 | 18m, 1 | Mt Coree area | ||
15 | ★ The Riddle
The same pair of pants were worn by both leader and second on the first accent of this outstanding, if somewhat wide arching test piece. Start at the short fist crack behind the large fallen tree, up and then left into 15 metres of memorable off-width. Take the largest cams you own, a 4 adequately protects the start of the offwidth. Scramble off. FA: Matt Rogerson & James Rogerson, Jan 2019 | 20m | Gibraltar and Corin Road | ||
16 | ★ End of Innocence
Diagonal groove with two bolts right of 'Billy Bonkers'. A #3 Camalot in the groove protects the bouldery start (or stick clip first bolt). Up grove past 2 bolts to ledge, up short corner then pull left to finish on broad ledge as for '72 Virgins'. Gear after the bolts: Camalots from #0.5 to #3 and a couple of extender slings . FA: Dave McGregor, David Anderson-Smith & Geoff Fraser, 19 Oct 2014 | 15m, 2 | Gibraltar and Corin Road | ||
18 | ★ Fish in a Barrel
Thin diagonal crack with narrow ramp using finger locks and lay-aways to ledge. Finish up weakness to triple bolt belay as for Faint Hearted or alternatively hand crack finish to Broken Window. Small cams helpful to protect crack to ledge. FA: D Anderson-Smith & D McGregor, 6 Apr 2014 | 13m | Gibraltar and Corin Road | ||
19 | ★★★ Piano Man
Hand and finger crack. FA: Damian Jovanovic & Sarah Truscott, 24 May 2014 | 12m | Gibraltar and Corin Road | ||
21 | ★★ Green Dragon
A hand traverse along a crack under a roof, using all sorts of old-school tricks. To reach it wander 20m right of Lay Lady Lay, past a square-cut mossy slab and round the corner to a wall capped by a large overhang. Scramble up to the right end of the wall to start at the entrance to a cave. Take camalots 1-6, with doubles in the large sizes. FA: Oliver Story & Daniel Gordon, 2013 | 20m | Orroral area | ||
20 | ★★ Wicked Witch of the West
Start on the block above the third pitch of Determinant, or at DBB level with the start of the crack.
FA: 1974, Keith Neil, John Fantini, Jamie Valdivia, Oliver Story & 1974-, 2015 | 60m, 3 | Orroral area | ||
15 | ★ Wombats in the Mist
Starts in the overhang with several rising cracks on the left. A bouldery move to gain the main face, then easier ground but spaced protection to the top. FA: Andrew Cadogan-Cowper, 24 May 2020 | 12m | Pierce's Creek | ||
20 | ★ Eel
The curving off-width. FA: 2020 | 15m | Gibraltar and Corin Road | ||
12 | ★ Gristle Groper Gully
The big chimney 50m left of Tower of Power. A surprisingly clean and charming adventure. FA: zac, noel, Matt Rogerson & dave, 22 Dec 2016 | 18m | Mt Coree area | ||
12 | The Life Subterranean
The mirror image of TLA. Climb the easy crack in the chimney at the back of TLA boulder. Access via a scramble, or the descent from TLA. FA: Matt Rogerson & James Rogerson, 8 Jan 2019 | 13m | Gibraltar and Corin Road | ||
17 | ★ Billy Bonkers
The short, easy (relatively) off-width corner right of '72 Virgins'. Up corner, traverse right (#4 or #5 Camalot with long sling) into 'End of Innocence' and finish up this. FA: Dave McGregor & Geoff Fraser, 19 Oct 2014 | 15m | Gibraltar and Corin Road | ||
23 | ★★★ Hearts and Bones
Place a good wire with a stick, then launch up the overhanging podded crack. When the lower crack ends, move left into the more regular handcrack. Wires and cams for the first half, a few #2 and/or #3 camalots for the upper crack. FA: Damian Jovanovic & Justin Ryan, 12 Jun 2014 | 18m | Gibraltar and Corin Road | ||
20 | ★★ Bananas in Pyjamas
A comparatively direct and well-protected route up the left side of the central slabs. Take a light rack and plenty of quickdraws. Start 20m left of Outer Limit, just left of the access rope for the Snickers Wall ledge.
FA: Jamie Valdivia, Daniel Gordon (P1-3); Jamie Valdivia & Enzo Giuarino (P4 B1); Enzo / Jamie (P4 B2), 2014 | 100m, 4, 7 | Orroral area | ||
21 | ★ Boneseed
Off-width 150m NE of summit boulder FA: B Aikman, 2020 | 7m | Pierce's Creek | ||
20 | ★★ From Cafeine to Crack
Hand crack on isolated boulder. FA: 2020 | 8m | Gibraltar and Corin Road | ||
13 | ★★ The Number-Crunching Karma-Tart
Fantastic hand crack in a chimney. Hi Oli FA: Sarah Truscott, Steve Kloske & Damian Jovanovic, 13 Dec 2014 | 10m | Gibraltar and Corin Road | ||
24 | ★★ No Country for Old Men
A good line that despite its proximity to other climbs somehow seems to have escaped attention - possibly because it fades out in the middle of nowhere below the top. The thin crack line 8 metres left of Dancing and Desire (walk right about 130 metres from Dead Horse Gap to just right of a detached pillar). Climb the finger crack and twin cracks to stance in niche. Continue until the crack fades out then some thin crystal cranking follows past 3 bolts before joining the final crack. Easily up this to double bolt belay on a large boulder at the back of the ledge (where there is natural gear and walk off!). Gear up to .75 Camalot. (Save a #6 rock and 0.5 Camalot for the final crack after the bolts). FA: Dave McGregor & Bjorn Aikman, 18 Nov 2019 | 27m, 3 | Orroral area | ||
22 | ★ Broken Window
The overhanging hand to fist crack, broken by a ledge, on the downhill side of the boulder. Flaky rock - take care. FA: Phil Georgeff, 1987 FFA: Oliver Story, 2013 | 15m | Gibraltar and Corin Road | ||
21 | ★★ Heartbreak Hotel
Fingers. Double finger-sized cams and a few wires. FA: Oliver Story, Marcin Pius & Daniel Gordon, 17 May 2014 | 18m | Gibraltar and Corin Road | ||
19 | ★★ Kiss the joy as it flies
The crack. FA: Andrew Cadogan-Cowper, 18 Oct 2020 | 9m | Gibraltar and Corin Road | ||
21 | ★★ Miles Apart
1
18
45m
2
21
55m
Start as for Jubilate.
FA: Oliver Story & Jamie Valdivia, 10 Dec 2017 | 100m, 2, 9 | Orroral area | ||
17 | ★ Send it, Jimmy
Quality hand jams heading right up the line. FFA: James Rogerson, Matt Rogerson & Jamie Hackett, 10 Feb 2019 | 10m | Gibraltar and Corin Road | ||
6 | The First Echidna
The low-angled crack that might pass as a climb, with a few gear placements under the leaves. Belay with care. To descend either traverse the ridgeline to rap station on The Seventh Hedgehog, or down climb. FA: Toby Story & Oliver Story, 2014 | 10m | Gibraltar and Corin Road | ||
17 | ★ Harvest
The off-width corner crack left of Skarsen. FA: B Aikman & G Butler, 2015 | 12m | Orroral area | ||
17 | ★ Woodcutters
The fist crack splitting a boulder up high. Reach the start via a somewhat complicated scramble up the gully and choked boulders. Bring two or three #4 camalots, a #3, and a couple of finger/thin hand pieces for the belay. FA: Carl Godfrey, Jamie Valdivia & Oliver Story, 2014 | 8m | Gibraltar and Corin Road | ||
22 | ★★★ Dogleg Crack
As the name suggests. FA: 2020 | 15m | Gibraltar and Corin Road | ||
14 | Reverence
The most obvious, and easiest way to the top. Still, the gear is tricky in the top half, and be very careful of crumbly rock. FA: Andrew Cadogan-Cowper, 29 Aug 2020 | 7m | Pierce's Creek | ||
23 | ★★ Us and Them
The obvious start to Illusionary lines. Wide fists and laybacks up the corner to to a mantle. Finish up Illusionary Lines. You could finish up Chopper at around gr20 FA: Dane Evans, 1 Dec 2018 | 15m, 3 | Orroral area | ||
19 | ★ Rogue Drone Down
The line 2 m right of Send it, Jimmy, finishing on the arete. Packs a lot into a short climb. From the ground, get a large nut into the seam then pull hard onto the wall and up the right trending crack. FFA: Matt Rogerson, James Rogerson & Jamie Hackett, 10 Feb 2019 | 10m | Gibraltar and Corin Road | ||
15 | ★★ The Mysterious Case of the Sandstone Princess and the Teeny Tiny Tampon
Miniature version of Hipster Billy's 'The Life Aquatic'. Squeeze chimney protected by hand crack, take #2 - #5 camalot and a finger sized one for the top out. FA: Sarah Truscott, Steve Kloske & Damian Jovanovic, 13 Dec 2014 | 10m | Gibraltar and Corin Road | ||
20 | ★ Vice Squad
The off-width three meters right of Live Injection FA: B Aikman, 2019 | 12m | Orroral area | ||
15 | All at Sea
From the 3rd belay on Denethor, move past the start to the Ivory Coast crack, then follow the rising, featured scoop with good gear, to the barren slab. Straight up the steepening slab to shallow grooves and the large flake for some welcome protection. Around right or over the flake to the top. FA: John Wilson, Geoff Gardiner & Robert Douglas, 18 May 2014 | 45m | Orroral area | ||
25 | ★ Non Caffeinated Organism
In the open courtyard inside the cave complex before scrambling up to ' Stepping Out'. On the southern side of the open courtyard. Bolts and gear up the wall and huge hanging boulder to a trad belay on top. Scramble up and start from the top of the boulder that creates the halfway ledge on the left side of the route. Belaying from the ground level of the cave is best. Place a low cam and then lean out to clip the bolt, pull out onto the face and hard, technical crimping out to the right leads to a delicate slab to the top. The direct start past one bolt from the ground level is now an open project - all yours if you want it! | 20m, 6 | Orroral area | ||
21 | ★★★ Puffing Billy
The imposing overhanging corner crack. Bridge up the right hand wall for a few moves on positive face holds, then into the overhanging hand crack. The angle eases off a little for the offwidth / layback finish. Camalots to #5, with doubles of #1-#3. A #6 camalot can be pre-placed with a stick to protect the start. FA: Oliver Story, Cam Zachreson & Chris Ling, 8 Jun 2014 | 18m | Gibraltar and Corin Road | ||
20 | ★ Spartacus
The prominent offwidth corner crack on the southern side of the main outcrop facing Sentinel Rocks. Well protected with tube chocks and larger camms. FA: B.Aikman & D.Anderson-Smith, 2013 | 15m | Orroral area | ||
14 | ★ Void
Chimney right of DC. Protected by wires and small cams in the horizontal breaks. FA: 2020 | 15m | Gibraltar and Corin Road | ||
15 | ★ The Journeymen
The clean cut corner crack 30m uphill from Faded Youth FA: B Aikman, D McGregor & G Butler, 2019 | 6m | Orroral area | ||
25 | ★ Non Caffeinated Organism
In the open courtyard inside the cave complex before scrambling up to ' Stepping Out'. On the southern side of the open courtyard. Bolts and gear up the wall and huge hanging boulder to a trad belay on top. Scramble up and start from the top of the boulder that creates the halfway ledge on the left side of the route. Belaying from the ground level of the cave is best. Place a low cam and then lean out to clip the bolt, pull out onto the face and hard, technical crimping out to the right leads to a delicate slab to the top. The direct start past one bolt from the ground level is now an open project - all yours if you want it! | 20m, 6 | Orroral area | ||
19 | ★★ Sling Blade
A nice fingery flake-crack. Take a bunch of small cams in the yellow alien to purple camalot range. Tree belay well back. FA: Chris Ling & Cam Zachreson, 7 Jun 2014 | 12m | Gibraltar and Corin Road | ||
14 | Crixus
The offwidth come squeeze chimney 8m east of Spartacus. FA: B.Aikman & D.Anderson-Smith, 2013 | 15m | Orroral area | ||
19 | ★ Terrapin
Clean cut offwidth 50m east of DC. FA: 2020 | 8m | Gibraltar and Corin Road | ||
20 | Rust
The offwidth left of Powder Finger. FA: B Aikman, 2019 | 10m | Orroral area | ||
17 | ★★★ Big-mouthed Bass Crack
An amazingly clean and sustained hand crack. Take a green cam or two for the start, then plenty of reds. FA: Cam Zachreson, Oliver Story & Chris Ling, 8 Jun 2014 | 10m | Gibraltar and Corin Road | ||
19 | ★★ The Wellerman
Perfect hand-crack with undercut start. FA: 2020 | 10m | Gibraltar and Corin Road | ||
18 | ★★ 72 Virgins
The good looking double crack/flake right of "why does it always rain on me". Unfortunately a large flake on the route is loose (all the large blocks on the ground were trundled by hand). Deemed "not worth dying for" by the discoverers, it received a first ascent by a team of keen young suicide bombers. Be careful with the last big flake in the upper crack until the Billy Billy OH&S dept. gets around to trundling it. FA: Ben Young & Chris Elliot, 19 Jul 2014 | 15m | Gibraltar and Corin Road | ||
17 | ★★ The Trapeze Swinger
In the atrium behind the main climbs. Consider pre-placing your first piece of pro. FA: Andrew Cadogan-Cowper, 8 Jun 2020 | 9m | Pierce's Creek | ||
20 | ★ Ferntree Gully
Flared off-width 200m north of DC. FA: 2020 | 15m | Gibraltar and Corin Road | ||
9 | Playdough
The other side of the Duplo flake. Start and slab finish are the same. FA: Andrew Cadogan-Cowper, 26 Dec 2018 | 15m | Orroral area | ||
23 | ★★★ Trojan
The central off-width.
FFA: B. Aikman & G. Butler (Alt), 2014 | 50m, 2 | Orroral area | ||
19 | ★ Arthropod
The flake crack on the wall down and right of Void. FA: 2020 | 15m | Gibraltar and Corin Road | ||
9 | Feeling Lucky?
The chimney 3m left of Magnum Force. FA: B Aikman, Nov 2018 | 12m | Orroral area | ||
19 | ★★ Furry Floss
Opposite the Empty Step slab a thin crack leads to a ledge. Slab and mantle past a bolt to the top. Bouldery crux may make for a tricky onsight. First couple of ascents used small wires, BD3-5. Take cams, BD0.3-1 to belay off at the top. Scramble down the back to get off. FFA: James Lister, Nov 2016 | 10m, 1 | Orroral area | ||
17 | ★★ One for the Road
This is on the back side of the boulder beside the walking track, 150m downhill from the lookout and opposite the handrail(!?). Corner crack to crumbly jugs at bulge. FA: Geoff Gardiner & Geoff Fraser, 6 Apr 2014 | 8m | Gibraltar and Corin Road | ||
18 | Brutus
The off-width / squeeze chimney between Afterburn and Evil Ways. FA: B.Aikman, 2013 | 10m | Orroral area | ||
15 | ★ Binary
Good with or without the boulder backstep. This nice looking finger/hand crack 30 metres below and left of Headhunter. Climb the crack for 8 metres then finish up the easy slab. Walk off back to log belay. Gear to blue #3 Camalot. FA: Greg Butler & Dave McGregor, 4 Nov 2020 | 15m | Gibraltar and Corin Road | ||
13 | Punk
The right leaning chimney capped by a large chockstone. FA: B Aikman & Dave McGregor, Nov 2018 | 15m | Orroral area | ||
22 | ★★ Cold in July
The prominent corner crack with flared start. FA: B. Aikman & D. McGregor, 13 Jul 2014 | 15m | Gibraltar and Corin Road | ||
19 | ★ The Enforcer
The flared hand crack in the alcove 30m down hill from Magnum Force. FA: B Aikman & Dave McGregor, Nov 2018 | 7m | Orroral area | ||
18 | ★★ Grimace and Shuffle
The offwidth in the atrium area FA: Andrew Cadogan-Cowper, 13 Jun 2020 | 10m | Pierce's Creek | ||
17 | ★★★ The Northern Express
Now the longest route in the ACT at over 600 metres. An awesome low commitment adventure and perfect on a sunny Winter day. Start up 'Melmoth' and then reverse 'The Girdle Traverse: Extended Dance Mix' all the way to join 'Hermes' and up this route then climb the scrubby gully and some 4th Class scrambling above to top out at the summit of the mountain. The First Ascent was done mainly simul climbing in 4 huge pitches but it can be done in as many pitches as you need or are comfortable with as there are many options along the way for belays. FFA: Duncan Brown & Ryan Macpherson, 16 Jun 2019 FA: Duncan Brown & Ryan Macpherson, 16 Jun 2019 | 600m, 4 | Orroral area | ||
20 | Wabi Sabi
If you happened to bring natural pro here's a route to stick it in, finishes up Plan B FA: Scott Young, 2013 | 20m | Mt Coree area | ||
16 | ★★ Bogong Rising
A well protected outing on good gear. Start at the lowest point in the buttress, move up easily past the two blocks and then with more difficulty past two bolts to gain the flake. Up this, then traverse left into the right facing corner and on to glory. DBB shared with Rock On. Set: Matt Rogerson FA: Matt Rogerson, 5 Sep 2015 | 25m, 2 | Mt Coree area | ||
15 | ★ Slab and Slither
The slab and minor offwidth crack at top. FA: Andrew Cadogan-Cowper, 13 Jun 2020 | 10m | Pierce's Creek | ||
17 | ★ The Kid
Wide-ish layback crack. Take two #4 cams and a double sling for the top. To find it, walk 50m left along the cliff from Groundhog Day. You’ll find it on the opposite side of a clump of boulders. FA: Carl Godfrey & Oliver Story, Feb 2018 | 7m | Gibraltar and Corin Road | ||
17 | ★★★ The Northern Express
Now the longest route in the ACT at over 600 metres. An awesome low commitment adventure and perfect on a sunny Winter day. Start up 'Melmoth' and then reverse 'The Girdle Traverse: Extended Dance Mix' all the way to join 'Hermes' and up this route then climb the scrubby gully and some 4th Class scrambling above to top out at the summit of the mountain. The First Ascent was done mainly simul climbing in 4 huge pitches but it can be done in as many pitches as you need or are comfortable with as there are many options along the way for belays. FFA: Duncan Brown & Ryan Macpherson, 16 Jun 2019 FA: Duncan Brown & Ryan Macpherson, 16 Jun 2019 | 600m, 4 | Orroral area | ||
17 | ★★ Oops I Did It Again!
Nice hand and fist crack with an interesting finish. FA: Nick Brown, Jamie Valdivia & Enzo Giuarino, 6 Jul 2014 | 8m | Gibraltar and Corin Road | ||
16 | ★ Grandad's Big Day Out
Has an entertaining and unusual move in each pitch. Start at the 2nd belay of Equilibrium.
Update (2019): the top of the flake on P2 is cracked and likely will come off with a big tug. FA: brian mattick & Peter Cunningham (alt), 2013 | 32m, 2 | Orroral area | ||
18 | ★★ Luminosity
Difficult moves to get started before easier terrain. Gear from silver to red cams with a few bigger pieces for the belay. FA: James Lister & Andrew Cadogan-Cowper, 11 Aug 2020 | 8m | Pierce's Creek | ||
17 | ★ V14 Crimp Ladder
Up the crack in the middle of the wall. Great gear to a DBB. Set: Matt Rogerson & Tom Breadon, 13 Feb 2016 FA: Matt Rogerson, 13 Feb 2016 | 15m | Mt Coree area | ||
20 | ★ Apostate
The flake crack 50m W of the summit boulder. FA: B Aikman & Dave McGregor, 2019 | 7m | Pierce's Creek | ||
22 | ★★★ Christmas in July
A little bit of everything. Stick clip the first bolt. Up face to undercling, swing round the arete, up the crack and finish with a slab. Trad belay on the opposite side of the boulder. Gear to red camalot. FA: Oliver Story & Carl Godfrey, 13 Jul 2014 | 15m, 3 | Gibraltar and Corin Road | ||
18 | Hands Free
A balancy, exposed climb unfortunately marred by too much lichen. Start at the 2nd belay of 'Bird of Prey'. Take long slings to reduce rope drag. Move left from the belay, then up and right to the slab above the belay. Climb right below the overlap then down and around the prow and up the slab until it’s possible to pull up left onto the higher slab. Easier climbing diagonally left to join Ephemeros at the 2nd belay (about 20m away). FA: brian mattick & Robert Douglas, 2013 | 35m | Orroral area | ||
17 | ★ V14 Crimp Ladder
Up the crack in the middle of the wall. Great gear to a DBB. Set: Matt Rogerson & Tom Breadon, 13 Feb 2016 FA: Matt Rogerson, 13 Feb 2016 | 15m | Mt Coree area |