Routes in Central Western Slope and Plains for selected grade

Start at base of ridge.

1-2) Wander up.

The route of the original ascent of Belougery Spire by Eric Dark and Osmar White in 1932, interpreted from a description of the FA in Walkabout 1-4-36, which said'...one pitch is a three· hundred-foot traverse across the face of the mountain on a ledge from a foot to three feet wide, with sheer rock wall above and a drop of a thousand feet below'. This clearly describes pitches two and three of this route.

Start: At the far right hand end of the Halfway Ledge below the obvious, vegetated gully.

1: 20m As for pitch one of Abseil Gully. Up corner/gully to chains on right.

2: 50 m Traverse left across the middle of the face on the big ledge (tending up at the end) and into the vegetated gully.

3: 40m At very end of ledge is a fine chimney, which leads to the famous 'Anti·Marilyn' squeeze hole. It is not really tight although presumably Marilyn couldn't do it. It is possible to climb around to the left of the squeeze hole too.

4: 20m Easy climbing to the summit.

This route was once thought to be Eric Dark's and Osmar White's original route to the summit. This is almost certainly not the case. However, since this route is already well known as Dr Dark's Chimney it is probably less confusing to retain this name as a tribute to Eric Dark's achievements in the Warrumbungles. From the top of the water-worn gully that leads to Half-way Ledge on W face, turn R up steep, vegetated gully. Many parties prefer to avoid this gully by climbing first two pitches of If the Spirit Moveth.

1-2: 60 m Scrubby gully on R, carefully, to large ledge at base of slabs leading up to chimney. Belay off bush.

3: 25 m Diagonally R up slabs to short crack. Crack to ledge below main chimney.

4: 35 m (crux) Chimney to where it opens out. Belay.

Easy scramble to S summit.

Best used as a descent route. Line under Finders Keepers Wall.

This climb was 'immortalized' by the television show Getaway. Start between small cave and rock step on lowest part of L slab with overhanging, yel­low buttress at top. Up and R to above step, then up to L end of buttress above. Poor rock to exit. (Jeffrey Watson got a fright here.)

R-tending crack at extreme N end of cliffline, with blocks on L at top.

Sit start on the right and up LB1.1.

Slightly steeper slab metre left of LB1.1 from the low juggy rail on right.

Slab far left adjacent the tree.

Half meter right of Nice Edges, basically start left foot on low shelf.

Start at the low pod as for R1.1 escaping right and up via the shelf.

Sit start from arete and up FG1.1.

Alternate sit start to FG1.1 bit further left from side pull.

Sit start to FG2.1 from the arete.

Alternate sit start to FG2.1 further left from good side pull.

North slab/arete direct with the arete on right.

Easy slab right of PR1.2 sans crack.

Left side of easy slab crack utilised as an arete.

Slab left side of easy slab crack sans crack.

Left side of far slab from the low step.

Around to the right from the slab and detached stones, climb the far left of the next short slab stepping left and up.

Same starting position as C&M2.1 stepping up directly.

Metre right of CM2.1/2.2, mantle via the diagonal rail.

Metre left of WB0.1 up to the apex via crimps.

Path of least resistance up East facing slab around to the left.

Right slab (sans arete and pockets) via crimps and slopers.

Left slab (sans arete and pockets) via crimps and slopers.

Start on left arete of pocketed slab move right und up large central pockets.

Start left arete traverse right to finish up right arete.

Up the muddy slope and short gully, probably better in approach shoes.

Sit start on crimp ledge and up slab via edge ladder

Couch start, handsfree inside the large lower dish and climb up the face finishing inside the cut-out/cave halfway up the boulder. A range of fun beta available to practice and try for new climbers. This seems to have almost all hold types to play on including a sloper, horn, sidepull, crimp, mono, pinch and a mantle to finish.

Blake Muir (FA)