A Crag Guide gives an extensive view of all sub areas and climbs at a point in the index. It shows a snapshot of the index heirachy, up to 300 climbs (or areas) on a single web page. It shows selected comments climbers have made on a recently submitted ascent.
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Table of contents
- 1.
Southern Cousin
44 in Crag
- 1.1. The Siren of Mooney 3 in Sector
-
1.2.
Spice Alley 15 in Sector
-
1.2.1.
Border Town 0 in Sector
- 1.2.1.1. Benevolent Dictatorship 0 in Sector
- 1.2.1.2. Mexico 0 in Sector
- 1.2.2. Promiscuity 7 in Sector
- 1.2.3. Sideways Farming 5 in Sector
- 1.2.4. Crime Scene 3 in Sector
-
1.2.1.
Border Town 0 in Sector
-
1.3.
Limited Options 26 in Sector
- 1.3.1. Divinyl's Wall 6 in Sector
-
1.3.2.
The Blocks 11 in Sector
- 1.3.2.1. Ground Level 9 in Sector
- 1.3.2.2. Scramble Up 2 in Sector
- 1.3.3. Beehive yourself cave 4 in Feature
- 1.3.4. Easy Access 5 in Sector
- 1.4. Lower Tier 0 in Sector
- 1.5. Distant Slopers 0 in Sector
- 2. Index by grade
1. Southern Cousin 44 routes in Crag
- Summary:
-
Sport climbing, Bouldering and Trad climbing
Lat / Long: -33.518376, 151.193851
summary
A 15 minute drive from Wahroonga this crag offers climbs of varying grades and heights including a few mini multi pitches to get some practice in.
description
A series of small western facing crags just south of Joll's Bridge. This land has an access road leading to a number of Energy Australia power poles which can be seen from the freeway. Some climbs have extra bolts in them to help avoid decking out on mid climb ledges.
access issues
New approach as of 12/03/2023. Please do not park on the freeway shoulder anymore as it has now been confirmed as illegal. A climber recently had his car towed whilst climbing.
This land is accessed by Energy Australia so please don't block the locked gate on the freeway. This shoulder is also frequently used by trucks as a rest stop. It is illegal to stop on freeways.
approach
New access details. Quicker and easier to get into the crag, and avoids illegally parking on the freeway and having your car towed!
Coming from Sydney, exit at Hawkesbury river and head north along the old Pacific Highway towards Mooney Mooney. Park approx 300m south of Jolls Bridge where the eastern side of the road widens, or approx 250m north in the shade on the right hand bend. Walk back to Jolls Bridge and enter 35m north of the wooden crucifix. Entering further south may lead to multiple wasp stings, trust me on this!
Hike up to the bridge and head to its southern end. Walk through the evident corridor cut into the lantana, past the ants nest, and towards the prominent gum tree to find white tape. Note the old 44 gallon drum below which is good to use as a landmark on your way out. Turn left and pass the old tyre.
Walk along the top of the low wall, then along the base of the short cliff that has the low honey combed cave. Walk through the grass trees, continuing for approx 15m. Head up the hill towards the freeway to find Promiscuity sector of the crag.
history
Stumbled upon by Phil Stallard while looking for a location to paint the Hawkesbury River in 2017. Developed by Brendon Flanagan, John Hollott, Marty Middlebrook and Chante Fisk in 2018. Site of one active and one inactive geocache.
1.1. The Siren of Mooney 3 routes in Sector
- Summary:
-
All Sport climbing
Lat / Long: -33.517991, 151.195678
description
Southern Cousins smallest sector offering fun, short yet slightly challenging climbs. Ideal for beginner lead climbers.
Three vertical reo bolts set back from the top of the climbs and one at the base of the face at shin height. Believed to have been used to lower the boulder at the start of Love Handle. Rusted chain coming from beneath boulder and scrape marks on Love Handle indicating possible route of lowering.
approach
From the locked gate head up the access road taking the forks left leg. Passing the high boulder field on your right head to the next fork in the road, taking its left leg. When this leg starts to veer right look left to find a flat cairn at the base of a tree a few meters in. Head past cairn to fence to find descent gully right of last cement post.
descent notes
Stay left of descent cairn then head right to taped tree. Climbs are to your left where the reo comes out of the rock at shin level.
history
The site of a forgotten geocache called The Siren of Mooney. Can you find the Siren who awaits to tempt you with her climbs?
| Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 |
★ Fluffy Bunny
Start under deep pocket. A good beginner lead. Set: Brendon Flanagan, 5 Apr 2018 FA: Brendon Flanagan & John Hollott, 22 May 2018 | 12 | 11m, 7 | |||||
| 2 |
Reo's
A stiff start followed by some fun climbing. Set: Brendon Flanagan, 3 May 2018 FA: Brendon Flanagan & John Hollott, 22 May 2018 | 16 | 11m, 6 | |||||
/01/e0/01e00e20d2512b8b5b6aa1cc0cd46d6ced99680c) |
||||||||
| Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
| 3 |
★ Love Handle
Up to the double scoop hold then up to and over the bulge to DUB. Set: Brendon Flanagan, 3 May 2018 FA: Brendon Flanagan & John Hollott, 22 May 2018 | 13 | 10m, 6 | |||||
1.2. Spice Alley 15 routes in Sector
- Summary:
-
All Sport climbing
Lat / Long: -33.514204, 151.192016
description
This sector contains the longest routes and is the quickest to get to.
approach
From the car park head up the access road to the first fork. Turn right and head north towards the three power poles. Spice Ally is the cliff line running along your left overlooking the Hawkesbury.
descent notes
Multiple descent points leading to Spice Ally Sectors which are marked by cairns.
history
Stumbled upon by Phil Stallard while looking for a location to paint his beloved Hawksbury River in 2017. Developed by Brendon Flanagan and John Hollott in 2018.
1.2.1. Border Town 0 routes in Sector
description
The most northern sector of Southern Cousin. Keep your head down at its northern end and steer clear of the highway please. No routes bolted. Open to development.
approach
Head north past the three power poles and enter the bush. Passing the old fallen wooden power pole look for the cairn leading you along the cliff line.
descent notes
Make your way down past the cairn and continue heading north to find Benevolent Dictatorship and Mexico.
1.2.1.1. Benevolent Dictatorship 0 routes in Sector
description
Please avoid sticking your head around the end to look at the freeway.
Open for development.
1.2.1.2. Mexico 0 routes in Sector
description
Open for development.
1.2.2. Promiscuity 7 routes in Sector
- Summary:
-
Lat / Long: -33.513881, 151.191869
description
Short, fun routes on some well weathered sandstone.
approach
From your car walk up the access road for approx 4 mins. Turn right at the fork where the damaged sign is. Head north to the far end of the open field past the telegraph poles and enter the bush to find an access trail.
descent notes
From where you enter the bush head down and to your right for approx 20m (cairns mark the way). Turn left and find a descent rope down on your right. At the base of the descent rope (facing the rock) turn right to find the start to Project 1 on the overhang. Continue under the overhang to find the rest of the climbs.
history
Developed by Brendon Flanagan and Chante Fisk
/c7/5e/c75ebbb51a1b0007c99a819c55d1a98ec8c2121d) /97/ab/97aba93c9b6a0de5c81af05d228a4edcb654622e) /97/12/9712cfb58244a30a117a68fc69c9776a0643a5ce) /dc/74/dc740104bb992643963a93e3480ffc7432626a78) |
||||||||
| Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 |
★ Full of Sailors
Set: Brendon Flanagan, 25 Nov 2018 FA: Ranger Dave & Brendon Flanagan, 28 Dec 2018 | 15 | 10m, 7 | |||||
| 2 |
★ Goblin Glue Girl
Set: Brendon Flanagan, 25 Nov 2018 FA: Chanté Fisk, 29 Mar 2019 | 15 | 10m, 6 | |||||
| 3 |
★ One Very Happy Moment
Bouldering overhang start FA: Brendon Flanagan Set: Brendon Flanagan, 25 Nov 2018 | 17 | 10m, 8 | |||||
| 4 |
★★ A Burning Sting
Warning Rock: Weak flakes Set: Chanté Fisk, 11 Nov 2018 FA: Chanté Fisk, 28 Mar 2019 | 16 | 10m, 6 | |||||
| 5 |
★ The Climb Formally Known As
Bouldery start with an overhung finish. Set: Brendon Flanagan, 25 Nov 2018 FA: Brendon Flanagan, 27 Mar 2019 | 16 | 10m, 7 | |||||
/ba/1d/ba1d510b0cc5ccf00cd7859df7993bf98abe12c4) |
||||||||
| Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
| 6 |
★★ The Stinks Stuck in my Nose
Set: Brendon Flanagan, 25 Nov 2018 FA: Brendon Flanagan, 27 Apr 2019 | 19 | 10m, 5 | |||||
| 7 |
★ Nothing But Cl-arse
Set: Brendon Flanagan, 28 Dec 2018 FA: Chanté Fisk, 27 Apr 2019 | 11 | 10m, 5 | |||||
1.2.3. Sideways Farming 5 routes in Sector
- Summary:
-
Lat / Long: -33.514200, 151.191983
description
This sector contains the tallest routes in Southern Cousin. You can rap in off natural anchors (or a big power pole anchor) otherwise follow access for Promiscuity.
approach
From your car walk up the access road for approx 4 mins. Turn right at the fork where the damaged sigh is. Head north to the far end of the open field past the telegraph poles and enter the bush to find an access trail.
descent notes
From where you enter the bush head down and to your right for approx 20m (cairns mark the way). Turn left with the rock to find a descent rope down on your right. At the base of the rope (facing the rock) turn right making your way under the overhang. Passing through Promiscuity sector follow the cliff line past the large cave. Stop at the second cave to find MBIC which starts on the left hand side of cave.
history
Developed by Brendon Flanagan.
 |
||||||||
| Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 |
Happy Daze
Start as for MBIC then trend left following fixed hangers to DRB lower offs. Set: Brendon Flanagan, 1 Nov 2018 FA: 28 Dec 2018 | 11 | ||||||
| 2 |
★ My Brother In Chalk
Start LH side of cave. Set: Brendon Flanagan, 1 Nov 2018 FA: Ranger Dave & Brendon Flanagan, 28 Dec 2018 | 16 | 16m, 11 | |||||
| 3 |
Tilted
RH side of cave, direct through overhang. Needs one more bolt in the overhang to finish the route. Set: Brendon Flanagan, 12 Jul 2018 | 20m | ||||||
| 4 |
Vouching Vanessa
Start as for Tilted, traverse right under overhang. Mantle overhang from the right. Needs one more bolt to complete the overhang traverse. Set: Brendon Flanagan, 1 Nov 2018 | 20m | ||||||
| 5 |
★★ BORING! Bostock
5m right of Tilted. Set: Brendon Flanagan, 12 Jul 2018 FA: Brendon Flanagan & Ranger Dave, 28 Dec 2018 | 18 | 20m, 11 | |||||
1.2.4. Crime Scene 3 routes in Sector
- Summary:
-
Lat / Long: -33.514633, 151.192244
description
Short fun overhung featured wall.
Options for much more developed.
approach
Head north towards the three power poles. Approx 60m along you'll see a low fat black stump. About 10m before this you'll see a cairn to your left at the tree line which will lead you to the climbs.
descent notes
Head down past the cairn and turn right to find the climbs on your right.
/29/c5/29c584bebab78aa87881c483ab741459b455e14a) /0e/ae/0eae1739e810d35b73044d40095df9a46a607a91) |
||||||||
| Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 |
★ Heath Ledger’s Last Gasp
Warning Flora and Fauna: Death adder snake LH route on short featured wall. Set: Brendon Flanagan, 20 Jul 2018 FA: Dushy De Silva, 27 Apr 2019 | 15 | 7m, 5 | |||||
| 2 |
Middle line of featured wall
Set: 20 Jul 2018 | |||||||
| 3 |
Right line of featured wall
Set: 20 Jul 2018 | 7m | ||||||
1.3. Limited Options 26 routes in Sector
- Summary:
-
Sport climbing, Bouldering and Trad climbing
Lat / Long: -33.517495, 151.193334
approach
From the car park make your way to the first fork, heading left. At the second fork head right to find yourself at the top of the plateau. Walk past the twin power poles heading north towards the furthest power pole. Approx 30m before this power pole you'll find a cairn in the left hand tree line.
Follow the cairns in and to your right for about 30m where you'll find a big low hanging gum tree and a large natural sandstone 'viewing platform' overlooking the Hawkesbury River. The main descent for this sector is to the right of the 'viewing platform' (facing the river) with a fixed line in place halfway down.
descent notes
Facing the river from the ‘viewing platform’ turn right and take the short scramble down to the next level where you’ll find a fixed access access rope. Take the access rope to the base of the ‘viewing platform’ to find the Divinyl's Wall. The Blocks and Easy Access follow after the DW.
history
Stumbled upon by Phil Stallard while looking for a location to paint the Hawksbury River in 2017. Developed by Brendon Flanagan, John Hollott and Marty Middlebrook in 2018.
1.3.1. Divinyl's Wall 6 routes in Sector
- Summary:
-
Sport climbing and Bouldering
Lat / Long: -33.517161, 151.193159
description
It's a fine line between pleasure and pain You've done it once you can do it again Whatever you've done don't' try to explain It's a fine, fine line between pleasure and pain
Berowra type orange bottom, through a sit down cave to the crimpy headwall. Beware loose rock in the cave. Don't damage the tree.
The bouldering wall is at the top north of the platform.
approach
A fixed line down the left hand side from the top platform. Carrots on top allow for access to the anchors.
  |
||||||||
| Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 |
Black Hawk Gardening Techniques
from the sit on boulder, traverse left along the horizontal crack to top out at the offwidth. FA: Jason piper, 20 Nov 2018 | V3 | ||||||
| 2 |
Black Hawk Clown
On the right next to the boulder, straight up. FA: John Hollott, 20 Nov 2018 | V1 | ||||||
| 3 |
★★ Pleasure
Left hand route of the buttress. Clip-stick the first bolt. Set: John Hollott, Jun 2018 FA: John Hollott, 28 Aug 2018 | 23 | 15m, 8 | |||||
| 4 |
★★ Fine Line
Middle route on the wall. Stick Clip. Belayer should not stand below climber stepping out onto head wall. Set: John Hollott, Jun 2018 FA: John Hollott, 14 Sep 2018 | 23 | 15m, 7 | |||||
| 5 |
★★ Pain
Righthand route on the main wall. Unfortunately it is impossible to use the line of holds to the right of the bolts without putting one's back to the tree. A direct, tree-free ascent awaits. | 23 | 15m, 8 | |||||
| 6 |
★ Crouching Climber Hidden Gecko
Start right of first bolt. Follow FH's up to cave then on to DFH lower offs. Belayer U bolt in place down and left of first bolt. Top out for top belay carrots and walk off. Set: Brendon Flanagan, 1 Feb 2018 FA: Brendon Flanagan, Phuong Ho & Penny Ho, 1 Apr 2018 | 18 | 15m, 7 | |||||
1.3.2. The Blocks 11 routes in Sector
- Summary:
-
Sport climbing and Trad climbing
Lat / Long: -33.517420, 151.193349
description
This sector offers short climbs on featured rock.
approach
Climbs start approx 5 meters after the Divinyl's Wall.
1.3.2.1. Ground Level 9 routes in Sector
- Summary:
-
Trad climbing and Sport climbing
Lat / Long: -33.517421, 151.193349
| Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 |
Closed Project WT Motorboat
10m right of the Divinyl's Buttress. Lower wall only, 3 bolts to DRBB on the upper wall. Slightly overhanging, black and thin. Potentially impossible! Set: John Hollott, 2 Jun 2018 | 6m, 3 | ||||||
| 2 |
★ Stiff Upper Lip
Set: Brendon Flanagan, 2018 FA: Marty Middlebrook, Brendon Flanagan & Geoff Cooper, 1 Jul 2018 | 19 | 7m | |||||
| 3 |
★ Cam Jam Fab Slab
Top out for top belay carrots and walk off. Set: Brendon Flanagan, 29 Mar 2018 FA: Brendon Flanagan, 16 Jun 2018 | 18 | 22m, 2, 8 | |||||
| 4 |
★ Cam Jam Fab Slab Pitch 1
Start beneath overhanging crack following it over bulge. Traverse left around corner. Mantel break to DUB on head wall. | 15 | 17m, 4 | |||||
| 5 |
Cam Jam Pocket Rocket
Top out for top belay carrots and walk off. Set: Brendon Flanagan, 29 Mar 2018 FA: Nat, 10 Jul 2019 | 19 | 22m, 2, 8 | |||||
| 6 |
Cam Jam Pocket Rocket Pitch 1
Start beneath overhanging crack following it over bulge. Traverse left to first bolt then up. Mantel then on to DUB. Set: Brendon Flanagan, 3 May 2018 | 17m, 4 | ||||||
| 7 |
★★ Cam Jam Pitch 2
Start on ledge above Cam Jam at DUB. One bolt to DUB lower offs. Top out for top belay carrots and walk off. Set: Brendon Flanagan, 29 Mar 2018 FA: Brendon Flanagan, Geoff Cooper & Marty Middlebrook, 16 Jun 2018 | 18 | 5m, 4 | |||||
/b9/bb/b9bb89de8dfe7712f26638d9ac3ed9dc8b3635f9) |
||||||||
| Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
| 8 |
★★ Matt and Lee's Excellent Adventure
Up pocketed slab to overhang. Clip beneath overhang following bolts left then around nose to DRB's. Top out for top belay carrots and walk off. Set: Brendon Flanagan, 8 Mar 2018 FA: Phuong Ho, Brendon Flanagan & Penny Ho, 1 Apr 2018 | 17 | 17m, 8 | |||||
| 9 |
★ Matt and Lee's Bogus Journey
Up pocketed slab to overhang. Clip right and follow bolts to DRB's. Top out for top belay carrots and walk off. Set: Brendon Flanagan, 5 Apr 2018 FA: Brendon Flanagan & John Hollott, 22 May 2018 | 17 | 14m, 7 | |||||
1.3.2.2. Scramble Up 2 routes in Sector
- Summary:
-
All Sport climbing
Lat / Long: -33.517594, 151.193420
description
A mid level tier offering some short fun sports climbs.
approach
Top Side: From the top of the Matt and Lee epics (facing out) look left to see an access rope heading down a break in the rock. This will lead you to the climbs.
Base Side: From the base of the Matt and Lee epics continue right (facing the cliff) for about 5m until you see a break in the rock with an access line coming down it. Scramble up here and the climbs are to your left.
history
Didn't think there were any climbs here at first. Scrambled down to collect a used mixing nozzle I'd dropped and there they were.
| Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 |
Recycled Curry
5m left of MSULA and a long way from Chante's curry! Set: Brendon Flanagan, 31 May 2018 FA: Brendon Flanagan, Geoff Cooper & Marty Middlebrook, 16 Jun 2018 | 14 | 7m, 5 | |||||
/85/08/8508c73e5b9402afdeddc21fd113fcc13664b9c9) |
||||||||
| Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
| 2 |
★ Mohinder's Spiced Up Love Affair
First climb on your left when emerging from the scramble up. Belayers please clip in to access rope U bolt for safety. Set: Brendon Flanagan, 31 May 2018 FA: Brendon Flanagan, Geoff Cooper & Marty Middlebrook, 16 Jun 2018 | 18 | 7m, 5 | |||||
1.3.3. Beehive yourself cave 4 routes in Feature
- Summary:
-
All Bouldering
Lat / Long: -33.517640, 151.193398
description
Pocket studded cave left of Easy Access. Looks way chossier than it is. Beware of the screaming geckos.
| Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 |
36 Flavours
Sit start at the back left of the big shelf.Straight out through roof, around lip, up head wall to left of rooflet. FA: jason Piper, 20 Nov 2018 | V5 | ||||
| 2 |
1296 options
From the Shelf at the back of cave, sit start, out to roof, round lip, up headwall to right of rooflet. FA: James Kershaw, 20 Nov 2018 | V4 | ||||
| 3 |
1296 options extension
Sit start on small undercling below shelf FA: James Kershaw | V4 | ||||
| 4 |
V nought interesting
Sit start right wall to jug FA: John Hollott | |||||
1.3.4. Easy Access 5 routes in Sector
- Summary:
-
Sport climbing and Bouldering
Lat / Long: -33.517835, 151.193423
description
This sector offers short face climbing
approach
Head past The Blocks, through the low hanging cave to find the climbs on your left.
 |
||||||||
| Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 |
★ Tactical Pew Pew
LH variant of Pew Pew. Shared lower offs. Set: Brendon Flanagan, 1 Jun 2018 FA: Brendon Flanagan, Geoff Cooper & Marty Middlebrook, 16 Jun 2018 | 16 | 7m, 7 | |||||
| 2 |
★ Pew Pew
Middle line to the left of the mid wall corner. According to the FA'er the corner is off limits when climbing this route. Set: Brendon Flanagan, 1 Jun 2018 FA: Geoff Cooper, Brendon Flanagan & Marty Middlebrook, 16 Jun 2018 | 17 | 7m, 5 | |||||
| 3 |
★ Lone Pew Pew
RH variant of Pew Pew. Link up after the first bolt. Shared lower offs. Set: Brendon Flanagan, 1 Jun 2018 FA: Marty Middlebrook, Brendon Flanagan & Geoff Cooper, 16 Jun 2018 | 15 | 7m, 5 | |||||
| 4 |
★ Rumday Monday
Start 2m right of LPP. Set: Brendon Flanagan, 1 Jun 2018 FA: Brendon Flanagan, Geoff Cooper & Marty Middlebrook, 16 Jun 2018 | 14 | 8m, 5 | |||||
| 5 |
Bootie call
Right hand off width corner. FA: Jason Piper, 20 Nov 2018 | V0 | ||||||
1.4. Lower Tier 0 routes in Sector
description
No routes bolted. Open for development
history
Developed by Brendon Flanagan, John Hollott and Marty Middlebrook in 2018.
1.5. Distant Slopers 0 routes in Sector
description
No routes bolted. Open for development.
approach
Continue past The Siren Of Mooney following the access trail past the tree line. Follow the overhead lines south to where the flat ground stops.
descent notes
Facing south descend to the right of the overhead power lines. Evident slopping wall to your left.
