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Description

  • This crag is a sea cliff. Access is strictly under small swell conditions. Even on a medium swell day around 3 foot waves can make it treacherous for access.

  • The rock is loose, and the rock is sharp. It's good adventure climbing, but it's just as rough on your rope as it is your skin.

  • Wear helmets. The belay's are generally tucked out of the way of the climb, but there is loose conglomerate rock.

  • Routes are 15-30m, starting from a belay ledge. Multipitch climbing skills are essential for this style of climbing.

  • Communication while climbing will be hindered as the longer climbs start off through gently overhanging terrain and finish up the long slab.

  • The longer routes top out, and are best cleaned by a 2nd who also tops.

  • Lowering off is best avoided, with options such as abseiling and bringing up the 2nd climber advised where possible (to minimise rope wear and tear).

Approach

Scramble in from ween wall. You will have to solo down the slab leaning into the zawn, and traverse across to the 'crows nest' belay ledge, clipping 1 bolt before you commit to the traverse over the slot (WARNING this slot will turn small waves into big waves with the hint of a sizeable swell, if it's wet wait and watch for 5-10mins to see what the waves are doing).

Routes

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Grade Route

Access traverse, do not attempt if wet as waves can make this part dangerous. Rope up at slot, clip bolt, traverse to Crows Nest for the first few climbs, or continue rising traverse to the bigger belay ledge the 'South Side Platform'.

Left line through the small roof, then follow the relentless diagonal breaks.

Right line through small roof, large cobblestone sloper broke at lip while working the line.

Start of the gently overhanging terrain, keep on slabbing to the top. Topout left near walk down decent. Bring thick skin, helmet, sense of adventure.

Is there a route here? IF so please describe.

Wrestle the golden eel through some seriously steep terrain.

Another absurdly steep specimen. Climbs the burly arete on mind defying enlarged scoops. The mollusk lingers, with it's wandering eye.

FA: A.Alexander & A.Child, 2012

Proud line up the middle of the cliff, to top out at the spectacular viewpoint up top. The intended start was from the North shelf, but needs a few more bolts to reach the lower belay ledge. For now can be accessed from the South Side - I'm dancing in the show tonight, then traversing the South Side Platform belay ledge.

Activity

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