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This crag is a sea cliff. Access is strictly under small swell conditions. Even on a medium swell day around 3 foot waves can make it treacherous for access.
The rock is loose, and the rock is sharp. It's good adventure climbing, but it's just as rough on your rope as it is your skin.
Wear helmets. The belay's are generally tucked out of the way of the climb, but there is loose conglomerate rock.
Routes are 15-30m, starting from a belay ledge. Multipitch climbing skills are essential for this style of climbing.
Communication while climbing will be hindered as the longer climbs start off through gently overhanging terrain and finish up the long slab.
The longer routes top out, and are best cleaned by a 2nd who also tops.
Lowering off is best avoided, with options such as abseiling and bringing up the 2nd climber advised where possible (to minimise rope wear and tear).
Description
Access issues inherited from New South Wales and ACT
If you have benefited from climbing infrastructure in NSW, please consider making a donation towards maintenance costs. The Sydney Rockclimbing Club Rebolting Fund finances the replacement of old bolts on existing climbs and the maintenance of other hardware such as fixed ropes and anchors. The SRC purchases hardware, such as bolts and glue, and distributes them to volunteer rebolters across the state of New South Wales. For more information, including donation details, visit https://sydneyrockies.org.au/rebolting/
Approach
30m rap from the north end. Be careful walking down the steep grassy hill, abseil to ground, then continue to abseil down into the zawn area. This is where the rope is likely to get stuck when pulling, so a short scramble may be required to retrieve.
It's rap in climb out, there is no other way to walk out unless the seas are flat.
There are 4 climbs here all graded 20, they hold ok in small swells starting at roughly 5- 10m above sea level.
Descent notes
Do not rap in during big swells, check the zawn first from ween wall. If access to the south side looks dodgy, the north side won't be much better. Likely to involve a 4m grade 14 exposed unroped solo/scramble as the rope will get snagged on a million chicken heads once pulled. Bring 2 ropes and leave one fixed if in doubt. Rap in climb out, can not walk out unless seas are flat. Not all climbs top out! You need to climb out, bring a head torch if your starting late, helmet also advised!
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