Routes in Mid North Coast for selected grade

Middle of wall . Start above blackboy climb up to base of tree. Tree anchor

Up short corner and wall through overlap and up to anchors.

Up through Rooflet to anchor.

The second obvious crack to the right of 'Monkey Boots'. Crack to tree then Cnr crack to top. Beware loose rocks. Natural Pro and Belay.

Tough opening sequence leading to the same, fun upper section.

Good fun. Great warm up. Can take a medium cam between the 2nd and 3rd bolt to reduce the runout.

About 2m right of Corkys Crack. Up the wall past 2 bolts and then through the rooflet on trad gear. Anchor bolts at the lip. A little bit spicy.

Left most climb on Pooh Wall. 2 bolts to rings.

15m right of ET. Up the big pale streak at the large tree. Up line of bolts to 2 large fixed hangers.

2m right of the pale streak. 2 bolts to chains. This climb is purposely run out, so take some natural pro for the breaks if that worries you.

Natural crack split through blank slab to double ring belay

The Obvious trad corner crack in centre of wall. Up to ledge and anchors above FSA

Start on low step below large tree on set back ledge. On ledge three options to climb with the crack in the middle that takes two large cams (a #4 is handy). Easier line on the left.

Start up Chimney to ledge, then up beautiful corner crack to roof and traverse right under roof to anchors.

A funky looking crack left of the big overhang (ROOM WITH A VIEW), up crack and swing round small roof to your left, then to top.

The next crack right of PLANET EARTH. A flared crack in a steep wall, hard jamming to top.

A crack with a cave near the top. The first rack right of CHICKEN HEROES. Hard start then easier climbing to top.

The right hand corner of the "Shower Recess" Short but much harder than it looks. Sustained.

The next corner right of AND THE COOKED. A corner with a jam crack near the top, bridging, layaways and jams, it's got it all.

Farthest left bolted climb on cliff. 1 BR and medium wires. Natural belay

2m right of the left arete of the open book corner. Vere left above overhang. Finish left of tree. Natural Pro, tree belay.

Flakes and edges 2m left of "what crack"

2m crack on west face

Scramble up face to where the crack starts in a bulge next to grass tree. Pull through bulge, then nice jams to the top.

SDS as per Scarlet Manuka but traverse R onto ramp.

SDS, face to R of arete.

Short and easy

Slab in centre of face, left of chimney

Highball face left of crack

Highball corner crack/slab

Highball crack

Short, slabby face

Prominent crack left of tree

Highball face, excellent climbing

Highball face, marginal R rating due to big rock in landing zone and possibly loose jug at 2/3 height

Featured grey face left of tree

Face 1 m right of arete

Featured face 1m right of tree.

Lefthand side of juggy face to ledge

Centre of juggy face to ledge

Traverse the prominent rail

Highball arete right of the Oreo

Right side of roof.

Short, easy wall between the grass trees at the top of the little hill.

Another fun, easy kiddy route.

Easy wall left of crack.

Easy wall right of crack.

Easy, juggy wall to the right of the roof.

SDS at far right arete. trend slightly R, then L and stick to LH face at rooflet.

Start left of the tree

Face left of arete

RH arete

Face R of tree

SDS Horizontal flake to jug

SDS Vertical flake to jug

SDS Huge arete/flake. Up the flake and then traverse the rail right across the boulder.

Arete

SDS to large, prominent horn feature. There are many variations of this problem.

Loads of V0 variations

Couple of variants from a start on the arete, moving right onto south face then up leaning crack ramp in middle or keep moving R to next arete and up.

SDS. layback vert rail jugs.

The southern side of the boulder with the cool thread. Don't break it.

Up the wall left of the little roof

Climb arete and wall past 2 bolts and trad gear to a tree belay.

Climb the right hand crack to chain. Large cams. The second route climbed at Wonderland. CAUTION(!!!): The tree at the top of 'Bartman' and 'King Aurther' has become uprooted and has fallen down towards the ground obscuring the top section of both climbs and their chain.

The crack 1m right of 'Confessions of a Window Cleaner'.

The first crack on the left side of the tier. U crack through the dirt to the top. A great climb if you are sick in the head.

The crack 2m left of Blue Sky Mining.

8m right of Blue Sky Mining. Up onto ledge then up crack past a bolt to top.

Thin pro at start up to small tree.

Cnr crack - It was there. Natural Pro

Start in line with arete 2m left and below WINK WINK. Pro in horizontal crack. Up and left for pro in left cnr crack. Move up and right to first BR Follow BR line to top. 3 BR's plus natural. Nice and pleasant. Tree belay

Another historical line, marked "M" in the ol' white paint style 1m right of "HM". RS/FA unknown.... couple gear options down low but nothing? for the top half and the slightly desperate slopy topout to the big ledge. optional easy 2m headwall or walk off left

70m right of Ankle Confidence, below obvious twin cracks leading to a fig tree and jutting prow above. 1st pitch (45m): Up easy ledge to left of line, to meet at start of cracks. Climb cracks (mainly right hand crack) to ledge. 2nd pitch (15m): Left across loose blocks, traverse, then up to hanging corner. Aid for 5m to ledge then free to large ledge. 3rd pitch has not yet been completed. Might go free at about 22.

Starts on the right hand side of a steep wall. A granitic version of Arapilies bulges, seams and overhanging silliness. 1st pitch (45m): Up and diagonally right to layback corner. Up this to slabby groove and on to top.

sit start up erete to top

Stand start on obvious features, up to layback rail top out. Traverse or down climb to exit.

Straightfoward little problem at the far left of the wall above the rockpool.

This pleasant West-facing slab is found about 50m behind Wave Wall (just the other side of the little grassy patch) down by the ruined slipway. Great for beginners and kids, it can be climbed just about anywhere. The right-to-left traverse is probably the best value offering.

Sit start and up slightly right of the slight overhang.

Sit start up and using the top of the slight overhang.

Sit start. Lean right off arete, and go for high feet. Top out

Just left of the nose. Follow crack weakness in the rock up to the right and mantle finish.

Up the easy jugs

Sit start on jugs and top out

Sit start traverse lhs around bouler

Crimpy start finishing off with a large move to a good jug.

Up big flakes to large jug. Easy but fun.

Start as for Meat Hook but veer left after the meat hook flake to finish at jug.

This route starts at the R-hand end of the upper tier. Access by climbing any of the routes below and carefully traversing L or walking up descent path. Up short broken crack and into large juggy crack (running diagonally L) before exiting up obvious top-out. Note: This short route is very exposed!

First route put up on Ripple Wall. Starts at black rock section. Climb up obvious line. Down climb to descend or carefully walk R along Ripple Wall and down climb Descent Corner.

Starts at white rock section. Follow finger crack that trends up and L. See RB for descent details.

Starts in the crackline with the white rock section directly below the small Pandanus. Follow line to top. See RB for descent details.

Approx 30 m's before the grassy bowl above the slot, head right and steep downhill to the tope-rope anchors. Use long slings or set-up rope to reduce rope drag

The anchors are above the first wall opposite the "almost-an-island" lump of angled rock. Climb up the corner of the detached slab, or directly up the face

The slab on the end of the bloc between the cracks

The Cookie Monster crack on the slab side facing the ocean

Sit start lay off the sharp arete to the ocean side of dabber without using the corner behind