Grade | Route | Gear style | Popularity | ||
---|---|---|---|---|---|
MacIntyre Falls Above The Falls | |||||
Unknown crack
A great looking easy crack | 10m | ||||
18 | Pray For Rain
Rap in off top FH or scramble down. There is a FH for belay at the base. Four FH’s on polished moon rock. FA: Lee Cujes & Eric Smits, 2008 | 10m, 4 | |||
unknowncurvy arete | |||||
Unknown face next to crack | |||||
V6 | ★★ What-a-problem!
The highball mega problem, trend up left on pockets | 6m | |||
V4 | ★★★ Jug traverse
Start far left on jug, the obvious traverse right through slopers back to juggy. | 3m | |||
V4 | ★ Undercling finish
From the big jugs head directly up, through the underclings and bulge | 5m | |||
V3 | ★★ Slab finish
Up from jugs, then trend right around the rooflet and up the slab | 5m | |||
Slot reach
The ultimate 1 move ape factor problem. Start matched on big slot, massively long move out to the lip. Over water. With no real feet holds. | 3m | ||||
Morning Glory
https://youtu.be/M_dsnrSFUpg?t=105 FA: 2006 | |||||
Cardiac Arete
https://youtu.be/M_dsnrSFUpg?t=774 FA: 2006 | |||||
unknown between two boulders | |||||
MacIntyre Falls Falls Walls Falls River Left | |||||
23 | ★★ Clean Slate
Start on a small pedestal on the left near the falls then up seam to traverse 2m right on polished slab then up on edges. Could be a bold DWS if conditions were right. | 20m | |||
20 | Medium Density
Best to abseil in from large flat ledge to small pedestal. Offwidth from #4 to #6 and some narrow hand sized cams for the middle. | 15m | |||
17 | ★ Spiral Cyclone
Abseil to sloping ledge right of the line under roof to belay from micro cams, small wires. Step left into V groove and up | 15m | |||
MacIntyre Falls Falls Walls Wilde Wall | |||||
24 | ★★ Wilde slab
The left hand route, facing downstream on large boulder below falls. Lowest bolt has been flattened a little. Start up V groove and sharp flake to slab, and on to top, traverse right to shared anchor | 12m, 4 | |||
22 | ★★ Link it Up
If the slab is proving too slippery, do the start to second bolt, and then finish up arete. The start may prove harder if reach is an issue | 12m, 4 | |||
21 | ★★ Wilde Arete
Cracked flakes to right of arete to first bolt, following arete to anchor | 12m, 4 | |||
15 | ★★★ Corn flakes
Located to the left of crack it up and wide wall, it’s a good flake climb and gets harder on getting to the top. 2 bolts at top with quick links to descend. FA: Tim & Reuben Raymond, 1 Apr 2023 | 12m, 5 | |||
10 | ★★ Crack it Up
Hand crack 2m to left of Wilde Wall. Move right to single bolt to belay, back up possible with trad gear. | 13m | |||
20 | ★★ Wilde wall
Centre route on downstream facing wall to single bolt anchor over top. A few tricky mantles. Accessible from top. | 12m, 4 | |||
23 | ★★ Wilde layback
1m right of Wilde wall. Looks equipped with single bolt for top rope directional. Fiddly gear available below this. | 12m, 1 | |||
25 | Wilde seam
Route up seam on tier above Wilde wall. Some razor sharp crimps. DBB on slab above. | 15m, 4 | |||
22 | ★★★ Iguazu
Starts 2m R of Wilde Seam on upper tier at thin finger crack. Head left to DBB on slab FA: David Gray & Vanessa Wills, Aug 2021 | 15m | |||
19 | ★ Nell Falls
Offwidth and tight V chimney 1 m right of Iguazu past golden fin of rock. Head to DBB to left up slab FA: David Gray & Vanessa Wills, Aug 2021 | 16m | |||
14 | ★ Niagara falls
Starts down right of NF up twin cracks past small tree, continue across slab left to anchor FA: David Gray & Vanessa Wills, Aug 2021 | 18m | |||
16 | ★★ White water Dreaming
Starts above pool, to left of falls, 5 m right and down from Niagara on the right hand side of a pyramid of rock. Up slabby seam under roof, stepping right into right facing corner with hand crack, then up slab to top of block. Belay possible with large ( #5/6 cams) on other side of summit block. | 30m | |||
★★★ Cornflakes
| 14m | ||||
MacIntyre Falls Rock pool and the Beach Big track boulders | |||||
V0 | ★ Slab
Easy slab | 5m | |||
★★ Brittle nose
Sit start, up then through bulging nose | 5m | ||||
MacIntyre Falls Rock pool and the Beach Steps boulder | |||||
V2 | ★★ Welcome mat
A great crimpy problem up the left side | 5m | |||
MacIntyre Falls Rock pool and the Beach Deep in the jumble | |||||
V2 | ★ Jumble sale
Sit start through ledge to nose | 3m | |||
★ Pinch arete
Start on the arete and directly up | 3m | ||||
Jungle in the rumble
A much harder line starting lower down | 4m | ||||
V1 | ★ Smearail
Squat start and work up the slopey rail | 3m | |||
MacIntyre Falls Rock pool and the Beach The waterfront boulder | |||||
V0 | ★ Warmup
Start on good holds then up onto the left face | 3m | |||
V2 | ★★ Avoidance
Diagonally up though and mantle | 3m | |||
Hard rail
Nails looking rail and top out | 3m | ||||
V2 | ★★ Jump start
Jump start then campus right and top out | 3m | |||
V5 | ★★ Crimping iron
Up the right side of the arete | 3m | |||
V0 | Lowball
Name says it all! | 1m | |||
MacIntyre Falls Rock pool and the Beach Water arrow block | |||||
V3 | ★★★ The arrow of time
Sit start and then head left along the shaft of the arrow and delicately mantle. | 4m | |||
V3 | ★★★ Water arrow
Sit start up interesting sidepulls | 4m | |||
MacIntyre Falls Rock pool and the Beach Dark Hueco | |||||
Dirty rotten scoundrel
Up rail. Needs more cleaning | 4m | ||||
V2 | ★ Dirty dancing
Through round undercling up to stepped jugs | 4m | |||
MacIntyre Falls Rock pool and the Beach The Beach area | |||||
The Cathedral
A series of rails inside the gable roof | |||||
V5 | ★★★ The Bazaar
A fantastic mantle problem reminiscent of fontainbleau | 4m | |||
V3 | ★★★ Sand groper
A big throw of good side pull | 3m | |||
V3 | Sand mantle
Various mantles | 1m | |||
VB | ★ Top rails
Fun little top out from the slab | 3m | |||
V0 | ★ Fig crack
SDS in the obvious crack with a fig growing through it | 4m | |||
V1 | ★ Fig slab
Stand start up the sloper rail | 6m | |||
V2 | ★★ Blunt approach
SDS on great rail then up right | 2m | |||
Deep water fig
The fig crack extends right through the bolder to the other side | |||||
Water cracker project
Up the thin finger crack over the water | 6m | ||||
VB | ★ Wasp groove
A fun highball slab | 6m | |||
MacIntyre Falls Rock pool and the Beach Rockpool Wall | |||||
20 | ★ V groove to finger crack
Best to abseil in to large sloping ledge just downstream of large fig. Starts off ledge through small fig at base of v groove with hand crack at back. Continues as finger crack. | 20m | |||
12 | ★ The Gullet
The inset corner inside the deep trench half way along Rockpool. A canyoning experience. Abseil down trench to water level and climb out with horizontal chimney moves to finish. Tree belay. | 30m | |||
Potential thin line
| |||||
23 | Harry the Skunk
The golden downstream facing steep corner capped by a large roof. Originally done with one aid at roof and later freed. FA: Rob Staszewski & Joe Lynch, 1982 FFA: Rob Staszewski, 1983 | 25m | |||
24 | ★★★ Gunboat Diplomacy Direct Start
Start 20m right of HTS. Hard moves to get established in the obvious dihedral, lead directly into Gun Boat Diplomacy FA: Rob Staszewski & Joe Lynch, 1982 | 25m | |||
22 | ★★★ Gunboat Diplomacy
Reportedly one of the best one pitch routes in New England at the time. Right of the obvious low dihedral, 20m R of HTS. Start on the R side of the arete, moving up and left into the prominent finger and hand crack system, leading to an exciting finish. The two carrot bolts were added after the first ascent. Tree belay. FA: Joe Lynch & Rob Stawseski, 1982 | 25m | |||
23 | ★ Gunboat arete
After the first carrot on GD continue up the arete on FHs and a finger and hand sized cam. Tree belay | 25m, 6 | |||
24 | ★★★ Border Patrol
Middle of face left of ETL, through roof to narrow finger crack. Join Gunboat Arete at its last bolt to top out. Finger sized gear and a #1 cam. | 25m, 5 | |||
20 | ★★ Eddie the Laybacker
The corner right of Gunboat Arete. Possible to step right onto ledge and DBB, 3m below the top. FA: Rob Staszewski & Joe Lynch, 1982 | 22m | |||
24 | ★★ Skeeta
Left of the HR start is a thin seam to 2/3 height then 3 FHs to the DBB over ETL. Lots of RPs and microcams | 20m, 3 | |||
21 | Haymarket riot
The corner left of Shapeshifter FA: Joe Lynch & Margaret Smith, 1983 | 25m | |||
20 | Shapeshifter LH finish
Start up Shapeshifter and take the thin left-leaning crack to finish FA: Rob Staszewski, 1983 | 20m | |||
20 | Shapeshifter
Steep cracked face, finishing directly up the RH crack FA: Joe Lynch & Margaret Smith, 1983 | 15m | |||
Old pro
Face climb facing downstream, R of Shapeshifter, faded tag on first bolt. | 16m | ||||
MacIntyre Falls Middle gorge Shark fin soup bowl | |||||
V2 | ★★ Baby shark
Doo doo doo doo doo doo it | 2m | |||
Run away
| 2m | ||||
V1 | ★★ Gill slits
Easy moves through polished fractured rock | 5m | |||
V3 | ★★★ Caudal fin
Classic highball arete | 6m | |||
V3 | ★★★ Caudal direct
One hold then technical smearing to link into the arete | 6m | |||
V1 | ★★ The first dorsal
Left along the fin to the chip then mantle and to top | 4m | |||
★★ Extended dorsal project
Keep working up the increasingly angle fin to top | 6m | ||||
V3 | ★★ Lateral line
Campus along the slopers then up | 4m | |||
V0 | ★ Pectoral fin
Up through the large chip | 2m | |||
★★ Balancy project
Potential for a super balancy problem | 3m | ||||
V3 | ★★ Upper jaw
Stand start on two decent crimp then straight up | 4m | |||
V4 | ★★★ Lower jaw
Low start on a good right crimp then through the roof | 4m | |||
V3 | ★★ Shadow in the swell
Sit start on sloper then left up through crimps to round rail | ||||
V2 | Placoid scales
Easy holds to a tricky mantle | 3m | |||
MacIntyre Falls Middle gorge Sweet cave | |||||
V2 | Upwarmer
A hard sit start then easy rail | 2m | |||
Cave project
A great starting roof jug, and then small hints of possibilities... | 3m | ||||
V4 | ★★ The mantel-test-piece
Hard to do, hard to grade. Start on the good crimp near the lip and push hard on nothing to glory | 2m | |||
Scar open project
Behind the cave is a vertical thin crack | |||||
MacIntyre Falls Middle gorge Jump shot | |||||
V3 | ★★★ Jump shot
Grade very dependent on height and number of pads. Sick standing dyno to stick the ok hold and up to freedom | 4m | |||
MacIntyre Falls Middle gorge The warmup gym | |||||
VB | Ramp
| 3m | |||
V0 | Face 1
| 3m | |||
V0 | Face 2
| 3m | |||
V1 | Seam 1
| 3m | |||
V1 | ★ Seam 2
| 3m | |||
V1 | ★ Seam 3
| 3m | |||
V0 | ★ Seam 4
| 3m | |||
V3 | Arete
| 3m | |||
V2 | ★ Arete 2
SDS layback | 3m | |||
VB | Offwidth
| 3m | |||
V1 | Crack 1
| 3m |