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Routes in New South Wales and ACT

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Showing 1 - 100 out of more than 10,000 routes.

Grade Route Gear style Popularity
Northern Rivers Urbenville Battery Hill
19 Copper Top

5m right of Abandonment Issues. Follow left leaning line of 5 FH’s past flake and pockets. Shared belay with Abandonment Issues.

FA: Colin Carstens & Joanna Parker, 2005

Sport 22m, 5
22 Abandonment Issues VS

Start 3m to the R of original. 2 FH's then up and L into Abandonment Issues.

FA: Ross Ferguson, Gareth Llewelyn & Ben Carter, 2006

Sport 7m, 2
21 Abandonment Issues

Steep start then nice slabby continuation.

FA: Ross Ferguson & Gareth Llewellin, 2005

Sport 22m
21 Pink Bongo Bunny

Start 5m left of AI. Climb up past approx 6 FHs to DBB.

FA: Stephen Bishell & Mark Churchill, 1999

Sport 22m, 6
21 Amped Up

Start 15m left of Pink Bongo Bunny. Bouldery start to first FH. Continue up wall on easier holds for 3 FH's to dished area below headwall. Take a deep breath and blast up headwall for another 3 FH's to DBB. Some broken holds, might be a grade or two harder

FA: Colin Carstens & Paul Elby, 2005

Sport 24m, 7
21 Short Circuit

3m L of Amped Up is a line of 8 FH's. Thin holds through to 2nd FH. Then easier moves to base of headwall. Crimp your way over double bulge while keeping an eye out for the crucial jugs.

FA: Paul Elby & Colin Carstens, 2006

Sport 23m, 8
17 Cat In Nine

Great, long warm up. Climb through the crux in a corner at just above half height then easy climbing to anchor with fixed biners. Can be done with a 60m rope.

FA: Stephen Bishell & Mark Churchill, 1999

Sport 35m, 9
15 Matt The Energizer Man

Climb ramp on R of notch to FH on bulge at 4m. Up beside white streak past 3 FH to stance L of "Cat in Nine" corner. Step up L on short vertical wall with ace buckets (FH) to long slab (FH). Chain belay on headwall shared with "Live Contact".

Sport 30m, 6
17 Live Contact

Start on the right of the alcove and follow 3 hangers to steep wall (crux). 4 more hangers lead to chain belay.

FFA: Ross & Annette Miller, 2008

Sport 30m, 7
14 Heated Exchange

Directly up slab L of notch past 4 FHs. Optional gear in pockets, too.

FA: Darrin Carter, 2001

Sport 20m, 4
18 Who's the Bunny Now?

4m right of "Don't Trust the Bunny". Up past the bunny holes to 1st FH. Straight up crimping your way past a further 6 FHs to chains.

FA: Ross Miller & Bernard Walsh, 2006

Sport 27m, 7
16 Don't Trust the Bunny

6m R of Yellow Brick Road. Up R of the rock orchards, through two steep sections on good holds. Thin, sustained climbing to clip 4 then easier to the top. 7 FHs to chains.

FA: Ross Miller & Richard Callf, 2006

Sport 24m, 7
20 Yellow Brick Road

14m L of notch. Generic, but clean slab climbing past 3 black FHs to the base of bulge, which sports the final 2 FHs. This overhung section hosts a vital two-finger pocket and makes for quite a stunning conclusion. Finish at rap station at small stance. Watch out for ants in the pockets.

FA: Lee Cujes, Stephen Parker & Erik Smits, 2000

Sport 25m, 5
26 Snail Trail

R of Ginsu. Climbs the steep blank wall with the "snail trail" and 5 or 6 FHs, using very few very small crimps. Thin is the word.

2016: The 'snail trail' mark no longer exists - but you can't miss the route. Blankest, meanest bit of cliff that has bolts on it.

FA: Gareth Llewellin, 2006

Sport 25m, 6
24 Ginsu

6m L of Yellow Brick Road beneath a hard, smooth wall. 2 Bolt runners in the first third (hard to see). Then four FHs to a chain belay.

FA: Gareth Llewellin, 2002

Sport 25m, 6
25 Life Isn't All Ha Ha Hee Hee

2m L of Ginsu. Climbs the steeper section of the wall following 6 or 7 camouflaged FHs and a few crimps.

FA: Ross Ferguson & Gareth Llewellin, 2006

Sport 22m, 7
17 Variable Resistance

Sustained thin moves between 1st & 4th hangers give way to easier ground. Lay off the huge bollard to 5th hanger. Easy to chains. Solid 17.

FA: Annette & Ross Miller, 2004

Sport 24m, 5
19 Ginger and Treacle

1m R of flake. Up through pockets (optional gear) to slab and the first of 5 black FHs. Onto steep section with big holds (FH). Mount wall and pockety moves to reachy FH. Run it out a little to the security of a massive bucket below the 4th FH. Over bulge to last FH and a tricky mantle to hit the chains. Quite run out, could do with extra bolts to make it safe?

FA: Lee Cujes & Gareth Llewellin, 1999

Sport 23m, 5
17 Batteries Not Included

2m L of the flake. Up on good holds (4 FHs) to lumpy arête. Nice exposure past 3 FHs to DBB. Rebolted in 2011 by SCQ

Sport 23m, 7
16 Carbon Black

4m L of flake. Up the R-leaning weakness past 3 FHs to a stance - quite run out between clips 2 & 3. Step L (FH) and up steep section (FH) to easy climbing (FH) to chains. Rebolted in 2011 by SCQ.

The route is a waterfall after rain.

Sport 23m, 6
14 A Bug's Life

Squash it! This was Grant's first (and only?) new route. 6m L of CB. Up easily to crescent shape corner (small wires, small and medium cams). Leave crack on exposed move to ledge (FH). Boldly over ledges above to DBBM. Worth the effort if you’re homesick for Kangaroo Point or you carried in some pro and must use it no matter what!

FA: Grant LeLeve & Darrin Carter, 1999

Mixed trad 20m, 1
13 Flat And Useless

The following climbs are on the second face approximately 300m along the track. 5m R of flake. Was pretty dangerous, now rebolted and an extra bolt and anchor added. 3 FHs.

FA: Alistair Byrom & Ken Cox

Sport 10m, 3
14 Connected In Series

Up BRs of "Flat and Useless", then go high L to last BR on "Eff-A-Reddy". Continue L to last on ASSOSSISS, then up to belay. Could have been the original intent for FU?

FA: Mark & Ricci Churchill, 1999

Sport 20m, 5
13 Eff-A-Reddy

Start on detached flake. Clip FH and launch onto wall. Over bump (FH) and follow jugs (FH) trending R. Then up to shared lower-off.

FA: Alistair Byrom & Ken Cox

Sport 18m, 3
12 A Sighing Sea Of Softwoods Swaying In Spring Sex

Great learner lead. Pockets 5m R of Itchy. Direct line staying R of runnel past 4 FHs to shared lower-off.

FA: Alistair Byrom & Ken Cox

Sport 18m, 4
16 Ohm Sweet Ohm

A line of 5 FH's to the R of Itchy. Thin moves to 2nd FH and continue over bulge on good holds.

FA: Julie Stanton, Colin Carstens & Joanna Parker, 2006

Sport 16m, 5
15 Itchy

Great learner lead. 1m R of the two pines are 3 pockets that look like Mickey Mouse. Up to pockets and on to next FH. Crux moves to and over the next FH lead to jugs and vertical section (FH). Over this to good chain belay on back wall of ledge.

FA: Alistair Byrom & Ken Cox

Sport 18m, 5
17 Specific Gravity

The crux provides some interesting crimping up an arete.

FA: Richard Callf & Ross Miller, 2005

Sport 18m, 5
18 Scratchy

The line of 5 FHs behind the pine tree. Finish at DBB.

FA: Alastair Byrom & Ken Cox

Sport 18m, 5
13 Candle Power

6m left of Scratchy is a line of 5 FHs to DBB. Boulder up to 1st hanger from L and mantle onto ledge using a little muscle power. Continue up wall on good holds staying L of 3rd hanger.

FA: Michelle Riedlinger & Colin Carstens, 2006

Sport 18m, 5
14 Loaded on Lithium

3m L of Candle Power. Up short steep wall on good holds. Good warm up or for newer leaders. 3 FHs to chains.

FA: Annette Miller & Natasha Laurens, 2006

Sport 15m, 3
10 Positively Terminal

Tricked into a solo by Sandbag Sam. Up wall just R of tree with large leaves about 15m L of the two pines. At top of wall trend L to start of R leading ramp. Up this to wall 3m from top. Straight up wall. No pro. "Why did you do that?" "Cause I’m stupid."

FA: Mark Churchill

Trad 20m
17 Not Rechargeable

Scramble up short wall as for NASATV to large ledge. At RH end of ledge there is a FH at chest height. Belay from here. Up face to 2 large holes passing a FH (wasps have been removed). Continue up wall passing 3 FHs to chain belay shared with LV.

FA: Alistair Byrom & Ken Cox

Sport 22m, 4
14 Low Voltage

Start 4m left of NR at RH end of large ledge. Can belay from 1st bolt of NR. Follow line of 5 FHs to shared chains with NR.

FA: Colin Carstens & Bernard Walsh, 2005

Sport 16m, 5
15 Electrolyte

Scramble 6m up to large ledge. 1st FH below large hole (wasps removed). Continue through bulge passing 3 more FHs to chain belay shared with NASATV. Be warned of ants at 2/3 height.

FA: Bernard Walsh & Colin Carstens, 2005

Unknown 22m, 4
14 Nice Acid, Shame About The Volts

Scramble 6m up to large ledge and clip FH on LH end of ledge at head height. Up easily, staying L of dark stain passing 3 FHs to shared CB with "Electrolyte".

FA: Alistair Byrom & Ken Cox

Sport 22m, 4
Northern Rivers Urbenville The Crown
21 The James Scott Memorial Diet

Follow the system of corners up and step L on to slab, passing BR's to CB.(BR's, SLCD's, wires)

Start: Apparently pretty damn hard. Climb arête L of large tree, which is in turn L of a large fallen tree and stump hole.

FA: Mark Plenderlieth & Alistair Byrom

Trad 40m
19 Sceptre

A pleasant mixed route following the line of least resistance.

Start: From large stump hole move up slab about 5m to dish and a single BR belay (If using a 50m rope, use a sling to clip into bolt as leader will need all the rope to get to first CB).

  1. 50m (19) From dish head towards orange overhang and a step to the R on to slab heading for short, prominent corner past two BR\'s to CB.

  2. 45m (18) Head up corner following BR's to top CB.

FA: Alistair Byrom & Ken Cox

Trad 95m, 2
17 Foreign Accent Syndrome

Head up L side of hanging block to flake up L side of block to bolt belay. (BR's & SLCD's)

Start: Several metres L of a broken corner with a large stump and a fallen tree, about 20m R of stump hole.

FA: Mark Plenderlieth & Ian Harrison

Trad 25m
19 Texas Chainsaw Massacre

Start: Directly up from broken stump.

  1. 25m (19) Up R side of overhang to tree root and then up past three BR's to CB. A fall on the crux could serve you up on the slab - take care.

  2. 45m (19) Continue up through two headwalls passing 15 hangers along the way. Remeber your long draws and/or use two ropes.

Ross Ernst, Colin Carstens 18/10/2008

FA: Ian Harrison, Mark Plenderlieth (p1), Ross Ernst & Colin Carstens (p2)

Mixed trad 25m, 2, 18
19 Texas Chainsaw Massacre (p2)
Sport 45m, 15
19 Slip

One of the most popular routes at urbenville, fine balancy slabbing up rock which has had every edge polished off by the sweaty palms and squirming feet of those who went before.

FA: Ken Cox

Sport 23m, 6
18 Genocide and Caramel

The obvious upwards continuation from Slip\'s anchors.

Start: Continue up and slightly left from Slip\\'s Anchors through break.

  1. 25m (16) Up through break in roof, follow hangers across slab to anchors just short of headwall.

  2. 25m (18) Follow line of weakness through headwall with some balancy moves, continue up slab to anchor.

FFA: Adam Gibson & Tristan Baskerville

Set by Adam Gibson & Tristan Baskerville

Sport 50m, 2
18 Slip-Sceptre linkup

Traverses left following the upwards trending overlap. Mind some loose blocks in the middle.

Start: Start at the anchors at the top of Slip.

Trad 30m
19 Fantastic

Three pitches of pleasant climbing with an interesting crux.

Start: Start by traversing up and right from the anchors of Slip or by heading straight up from the anchor of Slope/Sonoluminescence

  1. 12m (15) Follow bolts through corner/weakness approximately 1.5 metres up and 5 metres right of Slip\'s anchor, up slab for a short distance to anchor with huge mild-steel chain hardware.

  2. 25m (19) Up shallow corner to obvious steep corner (many FH's). Overcome this and the tricky arête crux move onto slab to reach CB at small tree.

  3. 15m (17) Clip FH from ledge and climb the slab above past numerous FH's to tree belay.

FA: Est. by Pete Schmidt. FFA Darrin Carter & Sean Smith

FA: Darrin Carter/Sean Smith

Sport 75m, 3
18 Slope

Another romp up slab past the L side of a small nose to CB at the top of Slip.

Start: Start at line of hangers a few metres right of Slip

FA: Ken Cox

Sport 23m
17 Sonoluminescence

Up R side of small nose past numerous FHs to CB at top of 'Slapp'. Has an interesting bulge at half height.

FA: Mark Plenderlieth

Sport 20m
15 Slapp

Off block and follow seam to first BR at five metres. Up slab blipping colts to CB.

FA: Ken Cox

Sport 20m
18 Gearbox Gastro

Quite testing. 3m R of 'Slapp'. Up slab passing two BR's to large SLCD placement and BR. Up steep section passing a FH (crux) to overlap, and on to CB.

(BR's, FH's & SLCD's)

FA: Andrew Horchner

Mixed trad 25m, 4
17 Slither

Solid at the grade, but excellent. Up slab clipping FH's to obvious triangular tooth. Once up steepness and at the overlap, head L to lower-off at top of Gearbox Gastro. FH's and cams.

FA: Alistair Byrom, Ken Cox & R. Byrom

Trad 25m
18 Weetbix Warrior

More good value. About 5m R of Slither. Up slab to a tricky step R and FH. Sweet pockets will see you through the crux steepness. Continue up corner to lower-off.

FA: Ken Cox & Alistair Byrom

Sport 25m
21 Urban Villain

This climb starts R about 3 metres. Head up crack/corner to vegetated ledge. From here step 2m R onto steeper territory. Follow FH's to a lower-off.

FA: Alistair Byrom & Ken Cox

Sport 16m
21 Urbain Villain DS

Instead of climbing the crack/corner of Urban Villain climb directly up the slab, passing three FH's below the crux.

FA: David Reeve, 2009

Sport
15 Easement

Good, but a sandbag at its original grade of 13 if climbed directly. Start about 12m R of Urban Villain, in a shallow V. Climb up the V and step L onto a large ledge, the first BR is clipped from the ledge. From the ledge head up to orange overhang and lower-off. FH's and cams.

FA: Alistair Byrom & Ken Cox

Sport 30m
22 Unknown
  1. 40m (22) Start up Easement but move R before chains following FH's up and then L to steep wall. Crank L and up weakness in this steep headwall past numerous FH's to slab then to chain belay.

  2. 20m (19) Up slab above past big flake and numerous FH's to tree belay.

FA: Probably Pete Schmidt, 1996

Sport 60m, 2
17 Unknown 2
  1. 30m (13) As for Easement.

  2. 20m? (17?) Move R from the belay and instead of trending back L toward the steep wall as per the 22, follow the line of FH's R into the corner, then out R and on R-wards.

FA: Probably Pete Schmidt, 1996

Trad 50m, 2
17 Treddle

Quite varied. This climb starts 3m L of the top of the small ridge about 20m R of Easement. Climb up slab heading L to a vegetated corner and FH. Up slab through branches of squiggly gum to blunt arête. Up arête to ledge. Off ledge and up to CB past small wire placements.

FA: Ken Cox & Mark Plenderlieth

Trad 30m
15 Wasted Days and Wasted Nights
  1. 35m (15) At top of ridge head up gentle slab to obvious corner. Up corner to where it eases and trends L. Ignore this (and the FH out L). Instead, step R into smaller corner and up to rap anchor at good stance.

  2. 30m (15) From chains head about 4m R and up water mark passing several BR's to steeper rock (FH's). Surmount this then up corner (ignoring unnecessary retrobolts) to lower-off just above she-oak.

FA: Ken Cox & Alistair Byrom

Trad 65m, 2
16 Wasted Days and Wasted Nights LHV
  1. As for p1 of Wasted Days and Wasted Nights

  2. Directly up from the belay following the line of FH's up the smooth slab, trending slightly L to chain belay.

FA: Peter Schmidt & James Fisher, 1996

Trad 20m, 2
21 Scream of the Hoggart

A gooey little thing. This climb goes up the L of the two cracks with a hard start and fiddly placements, ending at Fuck Off Noddy 's chain belay.

FA: Mark Plenderlieth & Ian Harrison

Sport 12m
22 Fuck Off Noddy

Classic and quite sequency. The clean line located in the middle of the buttress, below the R slanting flake ending at a lower-off.

FA: Mark Plenderlieth & Ian Harrison

Sport 12m
21 Waste Snot Want Snot

No easier than Noddy. Starts at R side of buttress below prominent flake. Boldly up to first FH then trend R to second FH. Up to top passing last FH, unsuccessfully trying to avoid stepping L. Chain belay.

FA: Mark Plenderlieth & Ian Harrison

Sport 12m
17 Unknown 4

First route up dirty wall past a few BR's.

FA: Unknown, 1996

Trad 20m
26 Nightmare

Looks heinous!! Two FH's lead up and to the L to a rest before the crux at the third FH. Up past one BR to finish. Chain belay.

FA: Matt Hutton & Greg Hambling, 1995

Sport 22m
23 The Liverpool Kiss

Up to scoop and BR. Onwards past another three BR's to chain belay.

FA: Mark Plenderlieth, 1994

Sport 20m
22 You Eeediot

Weakness just L of Penial Warts. Four BR's and chain belay. Really just a variant start to Penile Warts as it joins it at the second BR.

FA: Merk Plenderlieth, 1996

Sport 20m
22 Penile Warts

Start at warty tree. Up corner to small tree stump. Clip BR on L then up to second BR and traverse to the L. Up past another two BR's and a small wire over the lip if you feel it is required, then up to chain belay.

FA: Alistair Byrom & Ken Cox

Trad 22m
21 Tenuous Tendons

Didn't manage to find this one. Supposedly about 3m R of Penile Warts. Up past three BR's on difficult moves if you're the height of the first ascensionists. At top corner above third BR, step L and up to chain belay.

FA: Alistair Byrom & Ken Cox

Sport 22m
23 Romancing the Slabs

5m R of the warty tree. Up to first BR at the patch of white lichen. Traverse R and up to second BR. Up to FH and crux. Clip fourth BR and you're there. Chain belay.

FA: Alistair Byrom & Ken Cox

Sport 22m
20 Imaginary Invalid

Start at the left arête of the above mentioned slab. Head up to the large flake past two BR's. The third BR is out on the L on top of the flake, a medium cam is required out to the R. Follow the line of least resistance past seven BR's to chain belay.

FA: Alistair Byrom, Ken Cox & M. Byrom

Trad 45m
18 Flatulence

Up slab past SLCD slot and across to the R (long BR). Make your way back L under roof past nose (big SLCD) and up to the big hole (BR). From here zig-zag through break in wall past two BR's. Once on slab, follow breaks to chain belay. (BR's, #2.5 & ~#4 SLCDs & medium wires)

FA: M. Byrom & R. Byrom

Trad 35m
15 Image is All

Start as for the previous two climbs. Head to the same bolt at the hole. Step down onto tooth and up R to ledge. From ledge follow BR's to chain belay.

FA: Alistair Byrom & M. Moran

Sport 35m
19 I'll Be Bach

A direct start for Image is All. Start up slab about eight metres R of original start. Head up past two BR's then trend L to undercling and up to ledge.

FA: Ingo the Dingo

Sport 35m
20 Unknown 5

Another direct start just R of I'll be Bach. This time up slab past three BR's to hole and BR.

FA: Unknown

Sport 35m
21 Unknown 6

Reputedly good and hard. Great pinches through the overhang. Up the slab heading for the big white stripe on the steep wall up high passing 4 BR's to get there. Climb the steep stain past another BR, then keep going following the bolts.

FA: Andrew Horchner

Trad
18 Wasp

Up almost horizontal flake to natural gear in corner. Up slab to BR. Traverse L to corner crack, an #11 hex can be fiddled into hole. Thence to the R and up crack to CB.

FA: Ken Cox, R. Byrom & Alistair Byrom

Trad 45m
22 Flakes Away

Start as for Wasp. Up to ledge at 5m, then up to BR. Continue up past small cam and another four BR's. From fifth BR trend L to chain belay.

FA: Alistair Byrom & Ken Cox

Trad 45m
16 Streak

10m R. Apparently the streak up the vague L-facing corner has been done without bolts. Meander up to tree belay..

Trad 15m
13 Ugly Duckling

The black, L-trending wide crack up the slab ending at a tree belay.

Trad 20m
14 Jetsom

Up the short arête clipping BR's to chain belay.

FA: Alistair Byrom & Ken Cox, 1991

Sport 15m
15 Flotsam

Start about 4m R of Jetsom. Head straight up slab clipping BR's to chain belay.

FA: Ken Cox & Alistair Byrom, 1991

Sport 16m
Northern Rivers Urbenville Spot X
(The Executioner - Project - Reido)

Tricky boulder in the middle then through roof. 8 FH's to lower off at top of cliff.

Set by Tom Reid, 2014

SportProject
21 Naughts And Crosses

Slab (2 FH’s) to easy L traverse. Up with big moves (3 FHs) to thinky exit R. One of the least steep routes at the crag.

FFA: Lee, Sam Cujes, Chris Beric & Glenn Ferguson, 6 Jul 2013

Sport 15m, 6
24 Anasasis Xenophontis

4m R. Cool, punchy moves past chain permadraw and a steep finish. 6 FH’s to anchor. Hard!

FFA: Tom Reid, 13 Jul 2013

Sport 15m, 7
28 Extremely Unseemly

6m R. The cool-looking overhanging mini-corner-seam. Very bouldery and difficulty might be a bit height dependent? 6 FH’s to anchor.

FFA: Lee Cujes, 25 May 2014

Sport 15m, 7
23 Sherlock Hemlock

8m R. 6 FH’s to anchor. Reachy, bouldery climbing on steep, bomber rock to finish on big ledge. An interesting mix of slabby and steep sections

FFA: Glenn Ferguson, 6 Jul 2013

Sport 17m, 7
22 Expialidocious

3m R of Sherlock Hemlock. 6 FH’s to anchor. Easy scramble past first bolt to ledge and clip, then solid rock to finish. Tricky crimps on good feet to high reach past bulge at fourth bolt.

FFA: Erik Smits & Glenn Ferguson, 27 Jul 2013

Sport 17m, 7
23 Extra Shot

4m R. 8 FH’s to anchor. High first bolt above the big crater feature, then enjoyable varied climbing on good rock with a steep and tricky finish. Low in the grade.

FFA: Tom Reid, 27 Jul 2013

Sport 18m, 9
24 Extra Bolt

Climb Extra Shot. Then bust R along the rail passing one FH to anchor of Glenn’s project. Back-jump.

FFA: Lee Cujes, 9 Aug 2014

Sport 22m, 11
(Project - Glenn)

2m R. 7 FH’s to anchors. Some nice bouldery pulls with crux up top.

Set by Glenn Ferguson, 2013

SportProject 18m, 8
25 Flexion

Starts same as above but takes the right-hand bolt line. Trends up and R passing monster flake (climbing corner L of this) to roof, through this on flakes. 9 FH’s then mantle to anchor above lip.

FFA: Lee Cujes, 6 Jul 2013

Sport 22m, 10
24 Hot Sex

A large traversing line. First two bolts as for Flexion (long draw on second), then layback the monster flake to stance. Clip FH on R, then edge R-wards across the blank slab for about 8m to the point the line skyrockets up through the roof (super). The route keeps going up the headwall for about 10m on superb stone. Take some long slings. A 60m rope is more than sufficient as it’s a traverse.

FFA: Lee Cujes, 3 Aug 2013

Sport 35m, 14
(Open Project - Hot Sex Direct Start aka ‘The Slab Dyno’)

Direct start (5m R - 3 FH’s) with jump start and slab dyno is an open project. Red tag on first FH.

Set by Lee Cujes, 2013

Sport
25 Tito Traverxa

15m R in central section of wall. Monster traverse - traverses about 15m R through a 45 degree overhung wall. A tribute to a very talented 12yo Italian climber on the day of his passing. 12 FH’s. Permadraws. Very chossy until the 2nd draw.

FFA: Lee Cujes, 6 Jul 2013

Sport 28m, 13
31 Vixen

5m L of X-Men up obscene steepness. Just awesome.

FFA: Lee Cujes, 17 Aug 2014

Sport 20m, 9
22 X-Men Weekend

Not many routes of this grade are this steep. Starts up on a high, sandy platform. Juggy short wall to very unlikely roof flake ending at anchors in the middle of an otherwise blank wall. Belayer must wear a helmet as the flake likes giving free samples. Extension is Lee's gift to Adam Ondra and is open.

There has been concerns raised about the stability of the large flake by a number of climbers who have recently been on this route. It is very difficult to assess the stability of a feature like this, and the probability of serious rockfall. But the potential outcomes can be managed by being mindful of where the belayer and onlookers are located.

FFA: Monty Curtis, 20 Jul 2013

Sport 12m, 6
29 Extreme Makeover

5m R. Starts on high ledge near remains of a tree 5m off the deck. Access this by scrambling up from far R, then carefully walking back L. Clip first UB on Miss Sixty with long sling for safety while getting established on the line. Four clips (UB’s and FH’s) and very bouldery tension climbing. Anchors on smooth orange shield.

FFA: Lee Cujes, 25 Aug 2013

Sport 15m, 6
30 Miss Sixty

1m R. Scramble up to start ledge from R, then carefully wander over to far L of ledge (chalky choss) to U-bolt above a chossy white V-groove. Route blasts up from here passing 5 FH’s to anchor. Steep, bouldery and thin with a spicy top section. A bit of care with the beautiful start flake, please.

FFA: Lee Cujes, 7 Sep 2013

Sport 15m, 6
31 Dominatrix

Prepare to be dominated. Climb Miss Sixty to last bolt, then grapple the overlap diagonally R passing another 5 FH’s to shared anchor of next route. Absolute beast of a pitch. Super good.

FFA: Lee Cujes, 29 Sep 2013

Sport 23m, 12
28 Epoxy Doxie

The line 10m R which blasts straight up the guts of the steepness. U-bolt, then 6 FH’s up the 45 degree overhung wall to an incredible finish with one of the best holds I’ve ever seen on the finishing ledge. Classic.

FFA: Lee Cujes, 27 Jul 2013

Sport 15m, 8

Showing 1 - 100 out of more than 10,000 routes.