Routes in New South Wales and ACT for selected grade

Great learner lead. Pockets 5m R of Itchy. Direct line staying R of runnel past 4 FHs to shared lower-off.

First solid grey gully from end of beach. Start at the back of the gully on good rock. Bridge up gully then trend left on loose but easy rock at the top. ( I avoided the tempting arette due to poor rock) Belay & ab off tree.

The next 3 climbs are about 70m further on in " The Day Spa ". A compact black cliff with good natural features. Facial climbs the right leaning flake / crack system . Starting at the right end of a large boulder. Finishing in the corner of Massage.

Start in the corner as Massage. Climb rightwards over the slab to a bulge with good undercling pockets. continue up and over to glory.

Straight up jugs to mantel.

The corner crack, all natural gear, traverse right at the top to join the anchors of TB.

The crack in the corner just right of BALLROOM BLITZ. Named after the feeling you get just after you put on your harness. Bridge and jam.

A very short wall between SNOWMAN and WOMAN. Nice moves.

The next corner right of BOOT THE PUSS. Every cliff needs a horrible climb. Up corner crack to cave, up wall to top.

Solo or top rope the corner chimney

About 10m right of Rabid Dog. A layback crack below a ledge with a large tree.

1. Follow the corner crack to exit left on a small ledge. Up blocks to a large ledge.

2. From the left hand end of the large ledge, head straight up to the grass and traverse right or alternatively finish straight up from the large tree. Watch out for the see-saw rock!

50m right of Smug Dolphin Prick up left side of the left side of the crack. tree belay.

30m upstream (south) of 'Unlucky for Some', at the furthermost flat pocket, along the same slab system. 1st pitch (48m): Up tending right to dirty cracks, step left and up clean, unprotected slab to belay ledge. 2nd pitch (48m): Up through steep section, step right and belay at base of corner/dierdre. 3rd pitch (52m): Up on left hand side of diedre, follow line of pockets left, then straight up easier slab to ledge and poor belay. 4th/5th pitch: Easy traverse to left then down to abseil tree as for 'Unlucky for Some'. The photo topo is an estimated. Please update if you know where the route goes.

An easy but bold slab route on the extreme downstream (north-eastern) end of the South Gorge wall. Solo to belay at a large pocket. 1st pitch (48m): Up right to body pocket up of left hand side of clean slab, belay in grass. 2nd pitch (50m): Up slab veering right then up steep 10m wall. Belay at loose block. 3rd pitch (55m): Up, slightly left then right to crack in block. 4th pitch (50m): Traverse out left on easier ground to large tree. One 50m rap to ground. The photo topo is an estimated. Please update if you know where the route goes.

L of RFID. Start above obvious crack line at the base. Climb up to top and walk off over the back to the far L.

Up slap, remember using some rp's to a single fixed hanger and pandanus belay at top placed by the now defunct 'Yarrahappini Outdoor Ed'

The big corner that divides Central Wall from Left Wall. Head up corner using obvious crack line and juggy holds. Top-out over obvious grassy block onto the descent ledge/path 5m R of RFID. Build anchor to rap or walk off R (see RFID for descent details).

Starts at crack between light and dark rock. Follow broken line to top. See RB for descent details.

Start at the the short crack below the western arete of the main buttress. Climb the short crack then up the blunt arete past a bolt to a bolt belay in the cave. Traverse 10m right to a difficult move to a large ledge and tree, bolt belay well back.

Climb the crack and chimney system 10m right of Heart failure past a peg to a bolt belay.

The slab 4m right of Flip Side.

The obvious corner with a tree root at half height. Named after a repeat ascent by David Pickles.

Follow 'Fragile' but traverse to the arete, where chimneying between the arete and tree allows progress to continue.

At the Five Finger Exercise traverse, move left to a ramp system, which is followed to rejoin FFE.

Start at the right hand end of the triangular cave, climbing the wall right of the crack to meet the break (traverse line) 2/3 of the way up. Move right to the arete and continue airily to a tree belay, or anchors above strapidectomy. Now several bolts on other routes can be used and you won’t feel so Buzzed out.

The right hand line of the square cut groove.

The chimney / corner right of Drop the Pilot. In 2017 someone retro bolted this route, on expansion bolts. The hangers have been removed. Do Not Retrobolt. This route has been led by many scouts over the years and does not need bolts. Expansion bolts should never be used in Watagans sandstone for climbing.

Ascends the seam, a metre or so right of Marmalade, then takes the obvious crack /corner finish straight up to DBB on top of Asparagus.

Flake and crack system 3m right of Static Dynamic, to DBB.

Start beneath the orange scoop just left of Kabolos. Climb the groove till a move left brings an airy mantle onto a prominent ledge on the arete. Walk or scramble off.

Start 6m left of Trash at a prominent crack in the broken wall. Wind your way up the centre of the wall to finish on the arete.

This is the low angled ramp/corner system that forms the left boundary of the Sunset Strip wall. Climb the crack systems past a large tree.

Start 15m right of 'Fall-ding' at the left hand crack of the square cut groove. Climb the corner / handcrack to finish at a tree on the left.

Start 80m right of One Armed Bandit at a steep block jammed in the square cut groove. Up to a prominent tree.

Start 8m right of Mouse House at an overhung square cut but sandy corner. Climb the corner.

Climb the giant flake to the left of Ancient Remnant Direct, passing 2 very old bolts (protruding ~3") that should not be trusted (take big cams). Now possible to lower off the "Nads" double ring anchors.

Corner and crack system, marked with white square and grade (NBC '80s style, though could be more recent)

Hand to finger crack, on slabby wall, 50m east of Pinnacle. either finish straight up broken ground (choss), step left to finish up the final bolts of "Malmo" at grade 16. or move right to finish at the access keyhole.

Top rope from trees and cracks on northern side, 2 metres inland from the triple bolt belay. Where bedrock basalt meets the sand. Bridge.

Bridge the narrowest part of the slot. 3m inland from STEM and Slit Lamp. Toprope anchor from shrubs and cracks.

chossy crack 1m L of Poopsicle. Don't bother.

The off width crack just right of GG

Starts just above track at ground level and heads up corner to finish at the right hand end of the ledge of Cave right.

Using both walls, climb the line of bolts in the chasm between the 2 main walls. It will be the hardest grade 12 ever if short.

The offwidth. At top of crack place some small gear and step left to anchors of PE

Just to climbers right of the waterfall. Traverse left for 2 metres from edge of pool before going up

Climbers right of waterfall, right of Boof. From pool at base step onto wall and traverse left 1m and up v groove

Start: 15m. right of Kneecap.

1. 30m. Traverse along and up ramp, moving up to base of wall on right.
2. 15m. Up to right, across wall.
3. 30m. Up to top of small gully.

Start: This is a direct start to Nightcap. No details available.

Swim Start. Head up rocky breaks RHS of Waterfall.

Start: First line on this section. of cliff.

Up wall past 3 bolts, heading right under bush to belay

Start: On the ledge between Charity and Hope.

Straight up the wall to top. No protection.

Start the obvious offwidth.

Up easy offwidth.

Start: on the right-hand side of the scrubby corner left of ‘Wild Fire’.

1. 25m Up trending right, a left-hand offwidth/fist crack, then right onto face, up to tree on large ledge, then up to tree belay.

2. 35m Left onto block, then right, up a sloping ledge with numerous small trees. Up crack through slab, trending right to tree belay.

3. 10m Up gully system trending right to tree belay.

Start: A thin flake below a bulge.

Up the flake then aid over the bulge and up the crack. Where the crack runs out (bolt in place) move left on tension, then up to to tree.

Forever jerking off mank.

Start: A leftward trending diagonal crack, 10m left of ‘Adamant’.

Up diagonal, traverse left past tree to large ledge. Pull up through vines over crack onto large flake. Up slabs to tree, directly up right of offwidth to blocks.

Forever jerking off mank. A leftward trending diagonal crack, 10m left of 'Adamant'. Up diagonal, traverse left past tree to large ledge. Pull up through vines over crack to large flake. Up slabs to tree, directly up right of off-width to blocks.

Start: At the far left of the slabs (broken slabby area). An obvious leaning crack.

1. 25m Up corner crack to tree belay.

2. 25m Straight up slab to top (unprotected).

Buy one of these and you get absolutely free, air-conditioning, cassette/radio, 12 months supply of petrol, a block of flats on the Gold Coast... .plus Tasmania!

Start: The most left-hand route on the cliff, 5m left of ‘Look Ma No Hands’.

Up the ledges (wire placements) to a bolt runner. Up the slab to the South coast of Tasmania (friends and small wires). Over the overlap via Launceston, then straight up past Burnie to a short steep wall, then to top.

Start: In the chimney on the NW side of the northern half of the King Pin.

Up in three way chimney and onto large chock block. Diagonally up around leftward spiralling traverse to top of blocks.

Start: Start in the base of a chimney near the head of the gully.

Follow the crack up the left wall of the chimney.

Start: The obvious (?) crack. Richard got a little hot and sweaty while attempting this.

Up the crack through some vines to top.

Start: A few meters left of Chockablock, a slabby, leftward-trending line. As Geoff Francis was roping up to do the first ascent, everybody's friend, Joe Friend, stepped past him and soloed up the route, hence the name.

30m Up trending left, then step out and around roof into crack, then easily to top.

Start: At the left hand end of the bluff to the left of the northern descent gully.

Up corner into off-width, past loose block then through vines to ledge.

Abseil off or scramble to top.

Does not go to top.

Start: Below a half-height diagonal crack.

Up to hanging block, left and up groove to ledge, then right up diagonal crack to belay. Abseil off or down-climb to the left.

Start: At base of obvious diagonal ramp (right to left across face ); right of 'The Goon Show'.

Follow ramp to top.

Start: At the slightly overhanging wall at the Right-hand end of the major rock platform. A real mystery climb.

1. Up the corner to a triangular ledge. From here traverse right, through a "cave" to a ramp, and then a groove to the top.

Start: A corner just around from Hardicide. At one time it was disputed whether this was 'The Great White Father' (12), by D.Gallimore, C.Hansen, C.Cowled, Mar. 71. One seems to be a slight variant of the other.

40m. Directly up to crack, hand traverse right and mantle to belay. Up the V-groove, or the wall beside and continue to top

Start: From Sunnicide, down the creek for about 50m. to a small face on the left side. The climb is a corner at the right-hand end of this face. Rarely climbed, it may be very dirty.

20m. Up the corner.

Start: The chimney/cleft just to the left side of the water course. Good fun.

1. 25m Up the slabs

2. 25m More slabs to base of the chimney.

3. Step inside and up the chimney.

4. Chimney

5. Chimney

6. Chimney

Only experienced bushwalkers or rock climbers should attempt this trip. Helmets recommended. The party will need some large Hexes or Friends, and approx. 10 long slings with carabineers to sling bushes, the only protection after the start crack.

Start: The junction of the two rivers. Move up the ridge through bushes and rotten hand holds till you are confronted with a steep wall, split by a chimney. The chimney has been done but it is easier to move about 40m left till you come to a crack in a corner. This corner is the only place where you need Hexes or Cams.

Climb the groove to the crest of the ridge. Continue up and along the ridge using slings and carabineers as running belays. A step in the ridge (a bridge) is the first major obstacle. Running belays are difficult to find here so don’t fall off. Further along the ridge there are two large rock towers ('The Tooth of Death'). Negotiate these on the right-hand side, or better go up and rap off.

Eventually you will come to a large rainforest saddle, full of vines and creepers. The best route out of the saddle is via the extreme left-hand side. The first thirty metres is loose and dangerous- take care. Swing up through bushes and loose handholds, gradually moving across to the right. At this point the drop-off into the Chandler (on the right) is frightening. A few short walls, a little more scrambling and you will be back on the gorge rim. Head up onto the walking track and back to the car.

Start: Up on a ledge on the right-hand end of the main cliff, past Bangin Beava. A great introduction to hand jamming.

1. 20m. A short chimney section leads to a classic hand crack.

Start on the back side of the Pedestal by either going up the chimney or jumping from other boulder. Climb low angled slab to anchors as for AB. If you want to top out the big boulders you can continue past anchors on rightward traverse at about grade 15.

Start: 1m right of ‘Mantle As Anything’.

Bridge up over blocks then take the off-width crack on the left to top

Start: 25m right of ‘Occam’s Razor’ a large pillar leans back against the main wall.

Start up either of the two cracks for 3m to chimney in behind the pillar.

Start: 10m left of ‘Failsafe’.

Up the manky chimney until it narrows. Traverse left to fist jam crack and follow this to top.

Start: 1m right of ‘Long Haired Lout’.

Bridge and jam up crack.

Start: The staircase corner at the left-hand end of the wall.

Up the corner with several awkward mantle / shelf moves.

Start: An elegant lay-back crack which leads up a wall.

Start; The flake crack approx. 30m right of Koala Sprint. Unfortunately the crack doesn’t go on for ever. Nice.

30m. Up delicate flake crack which continues into a series of small corners.

Start: At the centre of the buttress below a large ledge with many trees.

1. 16m. Up wall to crack, over bulge, then slabs to tree belay.

2. 14m. Up corner to ledge, then up wall trending left to top.