Grade | Route | Gear style | Popularity | ||
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Central Coast Umina The Brown Room Brownroom proper | |||||
V1 | ★ Nope Slopes
Find the best holds 1m left of Easy Cheese and go slightly left and up. Sit start. FA: TD, 1999 | 3m | |||
V0 | ★ Cheese Please
Find the flat edge down low 1-2m left of Nope Slopes and climb up. Sit start. FA: RI, 1999 | 3m | |||
V3 | ★★ Swiss Cheese
Start back underneath low hanging roof on big and thin underling, out to edge of lip then up arete using any holds. FA: Anthony Alexander, 1999 | 6m | |||
V5 | ★★ The Gape
Start as same for Swiss Cheese, but head straight out to big break, then side pull and dyno to the top for mantle finish. FA: Anthony Alexander, 2001 | 5m | |||
V4 | ★★ Skip the Gape
Start as for The Gape, skip dyno and traverse along edge using only the edge for hands and a heel underneath roof. Throw to good pocket on same face as lip. Then dyno for top or use other pockets on same face. Cannot use back face underneath roof for feet or big jugs around the other side of the arete. This would have been done by someone else along time ago. | 6m | |||
V6 | ★★ Baby Brown Snake
Starting way down in the Veranda take the line of least resistance through the roof coming down and through the low eliminate block and reversing the 'Low Traverse' finally finishing up 'Love Jugs'. 50+ moves of awesomeness and probably around a 26ish as a sport route. | 20m | |||
Central Coast Umina The Brown Room The Pergola | |||||
V4 | ★ Power Play
Clmib into the finish of power pergola from the right via undercling FA: Daniel da Silva, 2007 | ||||
V6 | ★★★ Electric Pergolas
Starts left of Power Pergolas. Very thin and powerful. FA: Anthony Alexander | ||||
V6 | ★ Generator
Eliminate the lay away block on power pergolas FA: Dan | ||||
V4 | ★★ Power Pergolas
Located just outside the low roof. Trends right and up flake. Tough start! FA: Anthony Alexander | 4m | |||
V7 | ★ Power Station
Electric pergolas into Generator FA: Dan | ||||
V5 | ★★★ Broken Brains
Starting at crimpy undercling. Continue out roof until the pockets finish then going out and mantling the lip | 5m | |||
V2 | ★ Knob Jock
Same as Knob Jockey except use low ramp for feet start. | 3m | |||
V2 | ★★ Knob Jockey
Locate the big blob on the left side of the low cave. Follow the holds out left to the jugs outside the cave. This is a slightly harder variant of 'Knob Jock' if you do not use the big ramp for your feet to start. FA: Anthony Alexander | 5m | |||
V7 | ★★ Knob Jockey (top out)
Tops out the same as 'Hot Rats (top out)'. FA: Antho | 9m | |||
V5 | ★★ Indian Leg Wrestling
Start low on small crimp and right hand on stupid tiny slope, heel/leg on knob. Right hand slap to slopers and follow 'Knob Jockey' to finish. | 7m | |||
V6 | ★ Push the button
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V7 | ★ Slow Moves
FA: Daniel da Silva, 2006 | ||||
V7 | ★★ Causes
Starting at slopey break. traverse below the lip of the roof on well formed pockets and crimp high on lip. Finish at pocket jug a few moves after the two finger pocket. | 4m | |||
V5 | ★★ Burnt weenie sandwich
Starting in the back of the cave at Six Feet Deep, move directly back and out to the finish jugs of Knob Jockey and Hot Rats using some nice crimps and pinches. | ||||
V8 | ★★ Six Feet Deep
Low start into hot rats. | 3m | |||
V9 | ★★ Six Feet Rats
Climb 6ft deep into hot rats topout FA: dan | ||||
V9 | ★ Deep Causes
Link 6ft deep into causes FA: dan | 10m | |||
V10 | ★★ Deep Brain Trauma
6ft deep into Rats cause broken brains FA: Daniel da Silva, 2008 | 14m | |||
V9 | ★★ Wrestling Causes Broken Brains
Link Indian Leg wrestling into causes broken brains. | 12m | |||
V9 | ★★★ Rats Caused Broken Brains
start as for hot rats and climb all the way into broken brains FA: Dan da Silva, 2008 | 13m | |||
V8 | ★★ Hot Causes
Start at hot rats. Big move to jug and finish as for Causes. | 8m | |||
V4 | ★ Hot Rats
Starting matched in the hueco at the far left of the low roof one big move to the large scoop jug, then traverse right to the start of the roof | 2m | |||
V7 | ★★ Hot Rats (top out)
Start matched at the Hueco as for Hot Rats. Up to the big jug but send it up and left. Top moves are classic and tricky. Finish at the break 3/4 way up. Drops off. FA: Daniel da Silva | 5m | |||
V9 | ★★ Brutal
FA: Daniel da Silva, 2007 | ||||
V3 | ★ Yellow Submarine
FA: Daniel da Silva, 2006 | ||||
V7 | ★★ Red October
FA: dan, 2007 | ||||
Central Coast Umina The Attic | |||||
V2 | ★ The Kid
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V3 | Kid Indestructo
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V4 | ★★ Chamber Door
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V7 | Skeleton Key
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V7 | Bump in the night
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Central Coast Umina Cut Away | |||||
V1 | ★★ Airborne
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V2 | ★★ Rip Cord
FA: Daniel da Silva, 2006 | ||||
V2 | ★★ Periscopes
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V6 | ★ The Witch
FA: Daniel da Silva, 2006 | ||||
V6 | ★★ The Stitch
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V0 | ★★★ Cut Away
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V3 | ★ Cut & Pop
FA: Daniel da Silva, 2006 | ||||
V2 | Two Up
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V5 | ★★★ Air Force One
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V4 | ★★★ Airborne Ranger
FA: Daniel da Silva, 2006 | ||||
V4 | Hard Arch
FA: Daniel da Silva, 2006 | ||||
V4 | ★★ Rail Slide
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V4 | ★★★ Receptor
FA: Daniel da Silva, 2006 | ||||
V4 | ★★★ Connector
FA: Guy Koller, 2006 | ||||
V6 | ★★★ Sleeping Giant
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V3 | ★ Castle of Sand
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Central Coast Umina Mantlemania | |||||
V1 | White Whale
Start at the front of the sandy cave on pockets, head across right and up on gastons. Easy Mantle. FA: Nick Kaz, 2000 | ||||
V3 | Red Shark
Same start as WW, but straight up past a thin pocket. High mantle. FA: Nick Kaz, 2000 | ||||
? | Cave Traverse
Start as WW and traverses L up to easy section of 'Gobshite'. Potential extension(s) to Feckarse or beyond. FA: Jason Piper, 2000 | ||||
V6 | ★★ Gobshite
Sit start and up easily along obvious left diagonal to hideous mantle. FA: Jason Smith, 2000 | ||||
V6 | ★★ Tuckshop Arms
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V5 | ★★★ Something Tarty
Start up 'Gobshite' and continue traversing left past TA to finish up Feckarse. FA: Jason Smith, 2000 | ||||
V3 | ★ Feck Arse
Start on low pocket in front of nearly fallen tree. Up past big hold to pleasant mantle using sloping sidepull. FA: Jason Smith, 2000 | ||||
V6 | ★ Sandflies When You’re Having Fun
Start on the smiley hold, up left then desperate mantle over top, staying out of 'Gutted'. FA: Anthony Alexander, 2000 | ||||
V4 | ★ Gutted
SS the obvious throat-like chimney. All sorts of tricks can be used for the mantle. FA: Jason Piper, 2000 | ||||
V5 | ★★★ Slippery Nipple
Stand start 2.5m Right of Penrith by the Sea. Start on obvious slot the move to the lip an right to the nipple hold on top to top out. FA: Dan, 2000 | ||||
V6 | ★★ Nipple Cripple
Sit start as for Penrith by the sea and traverse the lip all the way to finish as for slippery nipple. FA: dan | ||||
V5 | ★★ Penriff By The Sea
Umina Beach! Best 5m left of 'Gutted', SS at left end of low flake. Traverse right a couple of moves, dyno up, right a couple more moves and mantle at the triple hold. Possible extensions to the right @ Vhard. FA: Jason Smith, 2000 | ||||
V6 | Tuckshop Arms (project)
Stand start in the double hueco ledge and go straight up – use the "victory" hold out right as per 'Gobshite'. | ||||
Central Coast Umina Mt Ettalong- south side | |||||
17 | Left end carrots
Left hand route of crag. Start up crack past 4 carrots to single anchor U bolt | 10m | |||
22 | ★ Slopy pocket carrots
Stem up cornerto slopey ledge then run out past 3rd carrot to single U anchor. | 11m | |||
22 | ★ Left most ring bolted route
Start up arete with bouldery start past 2 RBs to carrot and further RB to single U anchor | 12m | |||
25 | ★ Undercut start
The right most route on the short wall before the large cave. Large pocket at undercut start with bouldery moves past 2 RBs, 1 carrot and a further RB | 13m | |||
Central Coast Umina The Cape | |||||
V0- | ★ The Cape
At the very left hand end of the wall is a low obvious, in cut jug in front of the black boy. Start here and move directly up through the seams. | ||||
V0+ | ★★ Buzz Light Year
Start low on the cluster of pockets, climb up to the obvious jug and continue up to top out. FA: Daniel da Silva, 2007 | ||||
V2 | ★★ Man vs Machine
1m right of Buzz. Start on low break then climb up via the diagonal seam running up to the left only. Do not use the holds from the problems either side. | ||||
V1 | ★★ Permission to Land
From the starting break climb directly up the wall through some good in cut edges to top out on the highest point. | ||||
V2 | ★★ Cape crusader
Start in front of the small boulder from a good low pocket. Climb directly up in front of the vertical seam. | ||||
V4 | ★★ Committed
1m right of observer, start on a bad diagonal slot, climb directly up the bulging wall. Leap to a bad right hand edge, then back leftish to a committing top out. | ||||
V3 | ★★ Observer
Climb directly up the steepish wall not using the good holds of 'Cape Fear' to the right. Top out over the knobbly bulge, scary. FA: Daniel da Silva, 2007 | ||||
V1 | ★★ Cape Fear
In the scoopy section, climb straight up the good slots and escape slightly right when topping out. | ||||
V1 | ★ Thin White Line
Climb straight up the thin seam just left of the nose to the orange jug and over the top. FA: Daniel da Silva | ||||
V4 | ★★ Challenger left
Sit start on the left side of the nose. Climb right via some small slots below the roof-let, out to pinch the Arête and fire straight up the nose (avoid the thin white line). FA: Daniel da Silva, 2007 | ||||
V4 | ★ Solar Eclipse
From the wide break make a big move straight up or via a bad small edge to gain the good high break. Either traverse 'Eclipse' or climb straight up to finish. FA: Daniel da Silva, 2007 | ||||
V2 | ★★ Eclipse
Start as for 'I Want to be an Astronaut' but traverse the high break all the way left to top out above the nose. FA: Daniel da Silva, 2007 | ||||
V2 | ★★ I Want to be an Astronaut
Just in front of the boulder on the ground. Make a big first move to the first good break then easily up through the jugs to a tricky exit. FA: Josh Kent | ||||
V0+ | ★ Sneak Preview
Start from the two obvious pockets and climb straight up over the bulge. | ||||
V3 | ★ Lunar Arete
Start on the very right hand Arête. Climb the Arête proper without feet straying to the wall on the right. Tricky. | ||||
V8 | ★★★ Return To Challenger
Start on the break on the right side of the Arête then climb the nose. FA: Tom Hodgson | ||||
V7 | ★★ Brown Town
Start at big break right of the arete, and head directly up. through a left hand mono, and a right hand small crimp, ultimately to a mega jug. Top out as per arete problems | ||||
Central Coast Umina Riverbed Riverbed Left | |||||
V1 | ★★★ Shaking the Tree
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V3 | ★★ Touched Beneath the Sheets
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V5 | ★★ River of Dreams
FA: Daniel da Silva, 2007 | ||||
V6 | ★★ Rubber Bullets
FA: Daniel da Silva, 2007 | ||||
V5 | ★★ Riot
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V2 | ★ After School Special
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Central Coast Umina Riverbed Riverbed Right | |||||
V1 | ★★ Dirty Boulevard
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V3 | ★★ Mean Streets
FA: Daniel da Silva, 2007 | ||||
Central Coast Umina The Gold Fields The Golden Section | |||||
V2 | ★ Brown Stain
FA: Daniel da Silva, 2007 | 3m | |||
V6 | ★★ Midas Touch
Sit start on the ramp, sloper traverse up and left to mantle into the scoop. FA: Daniel da Silva, 2007 | 3m | |||
V4 | ★★ Golden Goose
| 3m | |||
V1 | ★ Golden Gay Time
Stand start on the good edge, finish on the jug. | 3m | |||
V5 | ★★ Golden Rule
Contrived and steeper than it looks. With crafty toe hook and balance to match make your way up the face from a sit start on the arete. | 3m |