Routes in South Coast for selected grade

Climb on the right side (from perspective of looking at the cave) Starts on the holds about 1.5m up and finished matched on the sloper on the roof.

Past the cave (ocean to the left). The vertical hand crack. V1 if you can jam. Make your way up till you are standing above the crack. Either jump off or solo to the top on average rock.

Up on small pockets and face holds up onto the ledge.

Climb up the second rib to the right up off the second ledge, laybacking to the top

Standing start on the left side of the bulge of rock, 2 jugs to start and pull up and onto the slab to finish with a top out. Be careful as some of the rock is a little sharp, some blood was left as a sacrifice by the first ascensionists.

The furthest most right boulder. Up the slightly overhanging prow arete from a sit start.

Up the obvious leftwards leaning crack

Middle of the blank face to the left of the crack

1m left of previous climb. Start with hands in the high rails, up to the bad pinch and deadpoint for the top.

Through the little overhang with underclings up balancy crimps to top out.

Move up to the left of the next little undercling roof, up to pocket and into the kings lounge rail.

Stand start with hands in large pockets, move up to juggy rails and finish

Up to horn on the top of the wall

Rising traverse at the top end

On the boulder on the platform above the rest of the problems

Sit start on undercling rail and use crimps to slap to top

Short climb, with most of the fun moves down low. Start with both hands on the lowest jug (see chalky hold in image) and feet pressed out right on the adjacent boulder. Then work your way along the feature, before working yourself on top of it. Then an easy climb out over the top.

3m left of the previous climb/back up the beach. Small rightwards leaning crack corner, follow up from sit start without using the large left hand ledge.

Same sit start as 'The Whale In The Room', except punch out left to ledge and mantle

Left again of the previous climb. Easy moves up face and moving up between vertical cracks

Behind the high ball boulder. Stand start, with both hands on the lowest part of the crack, then work your way up the rightwards leaning crack. Then easy climbing onto the top.

Start on the far left side of the flake and move right and up to the top.

Visible only once... Stand start on the rightside under-cling and enjoy the ride.

Close your eyes and imagine your on limestone. Sit start and pinch your way up the arete.

Stand start and climb the right side of the flake, be careful. Top out to the left.

Slab start into shallow finger crack on the left side of the crag. A good rest half way up on a small ledge. As the finger crack runs out traverse to the right and up into a number of small crimps on the face which constituted the crux before a slabby finish.

Starts on the backside of 'Ride The Lightning' inside the alcove.

Sit start pulling on the right hand side pulls and gaston into the flat edges and move for the top

Sit start and up through the vertical blades just to the right of 'Horse Hoods'

On the right side of the boulder that faces the ocean. Sit start off the sidepull flakes and head straight up.

Up the south face of the Candlestick

Sit start right of Call me Ishmael, big moves up to the lip and traverse left to jugs.

Start at Thar She Blows and traverse left to the finish jug of The White Whale.

Stand start in crack, follow up and right to jug.

Sit start on corner/arete thing (right side of face). Up on jugs to top out.

Straight up the crack and topping out over the top to the left.

Sit start 3m left of The Big Reach. Up 2m then left and up short water streak to top out. Left edge was used but an eliminate would make a good route too.

Sit Start with hands on the Jugs, trying to reach the big fissures on the way

Sit start with both hands on the Jug, Pull up and move towards the crack and then head out.

Stand Start Putting Both hands inside the crack and use your toe to push in the wee hold at the beggining of it.

Cross hand start from the Edge, Move along the side crack towards the main crack.

Sit Start with both hands on the Jug, move underneath the roof towards the Flake

Pull up from sit start on holds just above the large boulder under the roof, move up to the jug rail and into the undercling above and top out

Sit Start with both hands on the undercling following the fisure and then reach over to the jug just above the overhang.

Start with both hands on the Edge and then move right.

Same start of "Sunbake" just with a little variation at the end, Top right.

Feet Only!

Sit Start using the pinch, push up and follow the crag.

Sit Start with both hands on the Sloper push towards the wee Jug and up to the Undercling

Sit Start on the Sloper, move along to reach the edge on the far right side.

Hug the Boulder from the bottom Pockets, reach the Jug on a long strech move.

Sit start with both hands on the Jugs, move left to the flake and follow the crag up

Sit Start using the pinches underneath the boulder, Move along the crag

Sit start to pull off the pockets in the horizontal break and the sidepulls and hit the big rail and then balance up to the top of the cliff and mantle out.

Sit start and pull off the big pocket follow into the right trending crack on jugs and mantle out.

Start off the horizontal slot and move around the corner to the right on the sloping crimp rail and small feet to top out.

Start the same as The Cormorant, but instead of traversing right top out straight over the middle of the boulder.

Stand start matched on the sloper with small ledge directly below for feet. Traverse left through crimps and flat jug to a big shouldery move out left, before topping out over the highest point of the boulder.

James McMaster

Sit start 2m R of corner at the crack. Start with hand in crack and pull up through huecos. Beware of fall potential off the ledge.

Sit start 3m R of previous. Start with hands on jug and up passed the hueco. Beware of fall potential off the ledge.

Start up corner, break through roof on the left, finish up crack.

Straight up obvious slopey crack left of MOL (Difficult to protect on lead) follow crack line to block at top, over block to top.

Unprotected low down without side runners. An eliminate line, squeezed in and avoiding everything in the cracks to left and right. Straight up bouldery moves past the small undercling.

Sketchy lead. No protection for 6m. Delicate, balancy, and plays with your head. Requires a good spotter. Finish up through fun overlaps.

2m R of Orange Ruffy. Up to letterbox slot, then line of least resistance to top, finishing left of major capstone.

Up obvious thin cracks and pockets, 2m R of Zymurgy. Up tricky crack to large pocket and up. Originally graded 15.

Stand start on rail underneath small diagonal rooflet. Make your way up.

A bunch of Japanese tourists filmed the equipping of this route. The exposed rounded prow with bouldery gritstone start. Located 6m right of SSM. Edge up start (2 u-bolts) onto ledge. Up face above (UB) to committing finish move. Medi- um cams/wires required.

RP special. Daunting line with just enough (small) gear. Starts 6m right of PD, and 2m left of major blank corner. Climb up short wall to ledge. Stem up short closed corner, step right and up to big break (#5 cam). Edge up face above (RPs and tiny cams) to finally reach a good ledge and gear. Easily to top.

Arête immediately to the left of Cenotaph Corner Down Under.

Straight up the face, starting 3 meters left of Fisherman's Dunny. Begin easily on jugs past a carrot making balancey moves to gain small pockets. Trend right towards the horizontal break, then up to good holds at 2nd carrot. Finish straight up using small wires or cams for protection.

Leftward sloping finger crack at back-right of the embayment.

Obvious left-leaning, diagonal crack to the left of Fisherman's Basket. Take big cams.

Right of the low sloping roofs, in the middle of the main face, is a sinuous, left-leaning crack which begins on a step at the base of the cliff. Jams needed. Watch out for pythons basking on the horizontal below the top!

The double, crossed cracks right of Elderberry Jam. Sit start.

The pick of the crag. Quite the tip shredding puzzle. It links all the best bits of the Salt Bae boulder.

Start as for Salt Bae, but traverse the face, from left to right, avoiding the high horizontal and right leaning break (the rest of Salt Bae) using whatever remains on the face. Finish in the welcome groove right of the boulder, or muscle up Golden Tomahawk for extra cred.

Desperate ... for one move ... if you're 5'8".

Between Hide The Jalapeno and Stained Serviette (the two lines with yellow lichen) there is a blank section of slab. Smear up this without using the boulders in the sand or the vertical weaknesses on either side.

Just like a real boulder problem … only shorter.

Sit start with both hands on the far right jug and left foot in the overhung corner. Grunt left to the next hold then power up left to the jug on the prow. Hook left, rock over and top out.

Sit start. Up the butts on the arete (western side) off small boulder.

Sit start in side pull undercling thing (eastern side). Follow crack line up face (left side, south facing).

Sit start in side pull / undercling (eastern side). Head straight up blunt arete (stay on left side of it).