A Crag Guide gives an extensive view of all sub areas and climbs at a point in the index. It shows a snapshot of the index heirachy, up to 300 climbs (or areas) on a single web page. It shows selected comments climbers have made on a recently submitted ascent.
At a minor crag level this should be suitable for printing and taking with you on a climbing trip as an adjunct to your guidebook.
This guide was generated anonymously. Login to show your logged ascents against each route.
Warning
Rock climbing is extremely dangerous and can result in serious injury or death. Users acting on any information directly or indirectly available from this site do so at their own risk.
This guide is compiled from a community of users and is presented without verification that the information is accurate or complete and is subject to system errors. By using this guide you acknowledge that the material described in this document is extremely dangerous, and that the content may be misleading or wrong. In particular there may be misdescriptions of routes, incorrectly drawn topo lines, incorrect difficulty ratings or incorrect or missing protection ratings. This includes both errors from the content and system errors.
Nobody has checked this particlular guide so you cannot rely on it's accuracy like you would a store bought guide.
You should not depend on any information gleaned from this guide for your personal safety.
You must keep this warning with the guide. For more information refer to our:
Usage policy
Contributors
Thanks to the following people who have contributed to this crag guide:
Adam Rabjohns Support theCrag Dave Burt Melissa Hawkett Sean Ealey
The size of a person's name reflects their Crag Karma, which is their level of contribution. You can help contribute to your local crag by adding descriptions, photos, topos and more.
Table of contents
- 1. Lanagans Falls 53 in Crag
- 2. Index by grade
1. Lanagans Falls 53 routes in Crag
- Summary:
-
All Trad climbing
Lat / Long: -34.315338, 150.044219
description
Lanagan's Falls is a series of largish buttresses and walls formed of dioritic rock. In parts it is massive, in others it is almost columnar. Flying Buttress is the tallest section, being about 120-130 metres high. The major section of the crag is approximately 300 metres wide, but several more subsiduary sections extend both left and right of this, adding almost as much width again. The rock provides both good holds and friction. However then wet the rock tends to be rather slippery. The black rock is superb, but when climbing on the red/yellowish coloured rock, some care is recommended as this colour usually indicates deep weathering. New routes often require some cleaning, but once this has been completed the rock underneath is usually of top quality.
access issues
If you have benefited from climbing infrastructure in NSW, please consider making a donation towards maintenance costs. The Sydney Rockclimbing Club Rebolting Fund finances the replacement of old bolts on existing climbs and the maintenance of other hardware such as fixed ropes and anchors. The SRC purchases hardware, such as bolts and glue, and distributes them to volunteer rebolters across the state of New South Wales. For more information, including donation details, visit https://sydneyrockies.org.au/rebolting/
approach
Lanagans Falls is located on the opposite side of the valley from Perpendicular Rock. Cross Goodmans Ford (now a bridge) and continue up the road for 1400 metres to where the creek crosses. There is lots of space, so parking is easy. The most obvious way to the crag is to simply follow the creek bed. This involves quite a bit of boulder hopping and some minor climbing. There is an old track on the left (southern) valley side which joins the creek at about 2/3 of the way up. Unfortunately, this track can be hard to find and thus can take longer then the creek bed route. The walk from car to crag takes about 50 minutes. There has been a change in the status of the creek area, as a track to allow motorised vehicles has recently been constructed, and a tape barrier across the track. It may be necessary to see the camp manager/owner for permission to walk up the creek bed - I suspect his main concern is to keep out trail-bikes and 4 wheel drives. This crag is on private property.
history
This crag had been seen from Perpendicular Rock for several years, but at that distance it appears broken and low angled; and the route to the base of the crag somewhat rugged. Consequently, it did not evoke any interest. During the 70's several attempts were made, without success, to reach the crag from the top and from side spurs. In March 1982, Ron Miller and Harry Luxford made the first climbing visit to the crag. Not only did the walk-up turnout to be fairly easy, but the surrounding environs were rather pleasant. The result of the first trip - a healthy dose of "respect". The weeks later Kevin Westren and Harry camped at the Goodmans Ford for five days and commenced the crag's development. The first completed climb was Wonga Crack on Raven Wall. Lanagan's Falls is rather cold in winter, but the enthusiasm was so high that another eight climbs were completed between April and August, by Harry and Kevin. This was during a period of drought, thus they were able to do the actual falls in the dry, now the route Slipstream. The warmth of Spring brought Bruce Cameron out of hibernation and development accelerated. The rest of the year produced six routes in September, five in October, nine in November and three in December. All bar one done by Bruce and Harry. By now the crag was no longer a secret, many climbers began to visit the area. But the number of new routes increased only slowly - though not from a lack of potential. An interim guide was produced in 1984. But the time was not right for the crag to be popular. Many people did not like the walk up, or the drive from Sydney, or the wildness of the place; and at that time there was plenty of new sandstone areas being developed. The area was almost forgotten. Maybe this guidebook will help change this. [Ho ho ho - this was written in 1998!]
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
Left of Waterfall. | ||||||||
2 |
Playing Truant
An easy way up the left wall. Start: Immediately above pool.
FA: H.Luxford, S.Kitchen & Sep 84 | 8 | 40m | |||||
|
||||||||
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
Flying Buttress - Shady Side Lower. | ||||||||
4 |
★ Slipstream
Grade is for when a drought is on. Start: Just follow the stream - it is the actual falls.
FA: K.Westren & H.Luxford (alt leads) Aug 82 | 11 | 180m, 7 | |||||
5 |
Shadows From The Past
Some enjoyable moves on steepish, black wall. Start: First crack on right wall in the black gully.
FA: H.Luxford, K.Westren & Aug 82 | 15 | 55m, 2 | |||||
6 |
The Rites of Spring
An enjoyable meander that stays just left of nose all the way to the top. Start: Crack immediately above the pool.
FA: B.Cameron & H.Luxford (alt leads) Sep 82 | 12 | 150m, 7 | |||||
7 |
Edges
The rock gives the climb its name. Start: Left side of Green Gully.
FA: H.Luxford, B.Cameron & Dec 82 | 7 | 20m, 2 | |||||
8 |
★★ Skyrider
A very good climb. Start: The major corner-crack on right side of Green Gully.
FA: H.Luxford & B.Cameron (alt leads) 1982 | 18 | 80m, 3 | |||||
9 |
Agapornis
Top pitch is a good wall and crack. Start: On eastern side of Green Gully, the corner behind the tree.
FA: B.Cameron, K.Westren (alt leads) H.Luxford & Sep 82 | 17 | 50m, 2 | |||||
10 |
Stone the Crows
Top pitch is enjoyable. Start: Left of nose on Flight Deck.
FA: B.Cameron & H.Luxford (alt leads) Sep 82 | 15 | 45m, 3 | |||||
Flying Buttress - Sunny SideThis is the eastern and north-eastern sides of Flying Buttress. | ||||||||
12 |
Family Secrets
A quick way to get to the Flight Deck. Start: Through the tree, high to right of pool. 1 and 2 Just follow the easiest way through the vegetation. FA: H.Luxford & S.Kitchen Sep 84 | 9 | 50m, 2 | |||||
13 |
Anniversary Route
First climb on Flying Buttress. Kevin had celebrated his twenty-fifth year of climbing just two days previously. Start: Centre of lower wall - directly below obvious central crack and corner.
FA: H.Luxford & K.Westren Apr 82 | 13 | 150m, 6 | |||||
14 |
★★ Pegasus
A varied and enjoyable series of corners and cracks up front of Flying Buttress. Start: Marked. At left sloping ramp, goes straight above marker.
FA: H.Luxford & B.Cameron (alt leads) Sep 82 | 18 | 120m, 4 | |||||
15 |
Peewee
A way to Flight Deck. Original start corner/crack further left and down. Start: As for Flight of Fancy.
FA: H.Luxford Sep 82 | 5 | 60m, 2 | |||||
16 |
Flight of Fancy
Variety of pitches, including three "steps" at top. Start: Marked. As for Peewee - move left to original line, up cracks etc.
FA: H.Luxford & K.Westren (alt leads) May 82 | 16 | 140m, 7 | |||||
17 |
★ On A Wing And A Prayer
A couple of very enjoyable pitches. Start: Marked. At 'open space' at righthand end of Flying Buttress - chose your own line through variety of cracks and corners. 1 and 2. 50m Choice of cracks and corners to ledge - wide corner plus 2 cracks in red wall.
FA: K.Westren & H.Luxford (alt leads) May 82 | 16 M0 | 140m, 6 | |||||
The NestEasiest way to the start of these climbs is to do Raven Wall. Start at Wonga Crack, move diagonally left up lower ramp to corner. Up this, then left across obvious left - belay needed - to trees. | ||||||||
19 |
★ Snappa
A hard and varied route. Start: Obvious yellow ramp on right of Flying Buttress.
FA: B.Cameron & J.Fantini (alt leads) Jan 83 | 20 M0 | 70m, 4 | |||||
20 |
Sparrow
Easy way to top. Start: Left end of Nest.
FA: H.Luxford & K.Seddon Apr 83 | 6 | 25m | |||||
21 |
Scallywag
Superb rock.
FA: B.Cameron, H.Luxford & Sep 82 | 10 | 25m | |||||
22 |
Yibb-Yabba
Start: Right of Scallywag.
FA: B.Cameron & W.Moon Oct 83 | 15 | 25m | |||||
23 |
★ Leadging Edge
Good climbing on good rock. Start: Obvious corner out of Nest.
FA: H.Luxford, K.Westren (alt leads) R.Miller & Aug 82 | 12 | 25m | |||||
24 |
★ Little Gem
Steep crack. Start: As for Leading Edge.
FA: J.Fantini, B.Cameron & Jan 83 | 18 | 16m | |||||
25 |
Tailspin
Flake is superb rock. Start: Corner below obvious flake and tree.
FA: H.Luxford & B.Cameron Sep 82 | 14 | 30m, 2 | |||||
26 |
Fools Errand
A fair climb. Start: Diagonal corner-crack in right side of Nest.
FA: H.Luxford & B.Cameron (alt leads) Oct 82 | 13 | 30m, 2 | |||||
27 |
Rising Sun
Two fair pitches. Stat: Right of Fools Errand. Cross over Fools Errand at belay.
FA: B.Cameron & H.Luxford (alt leads) Oct 82 | 15 | 30m, 2 | |||||
28 |
Skylark
Pleasant first pitch. Start: Overhang behind tree.
FA: H.Luxford & B.Cameron (alt leads) Oct 82 | 16 | 27m, 2 | |||||
29 |
Digit
Good fun. Start: Crack opposite summit pinnacle.
FA: W.Moon & B.Cameron Oct 83 | 18 | 10m | |||||
Raven Wall. | ||||||||
31 |
Opulant
Felt harder than 18 to me. Start: Orange corner in left end of middle ledge on Raven Wall.
FA: J.Fantini & B.Cameron Jan 83 | 18 | 20m | |||||
32 |
Beauty
Thin climbing on steep black wall. Start: Left end of Raven Wall, below overhanging gum tree.
FA: G.Bradbury & G.Moore 1983 | 21 | 20m | |||||
33 |
Pretty Polly
More enjoyable than it looks - thankfully. Start: As for Wonga Crack.
FA: K.Westren & H.Luxford (alt leads) Aug 82 | 11 | 110m, 4 | |||||
34 |
Wonga Crack
First climb on the crag. Part of first pitch has fallen down. May need re-grading. Start: Obvious crack in middle of wall.
FA: and around, bulge to top of block. 2. 10m Corner to ledge. 3. 15m To tree. 4. 25m (crux) Obvious crack to ledge. 5. 15m Up as will to top. H.Luxford, K.Westren, H.Luxford & Apr 82 | 14 | 90m, 5 | |||||
35 |
Man of Diamond
Two reasonable slab/wall pitches. Start: Immediately right of Wonga Crack.
FA: W.Moon & B.Moon Dec 82 | 14 | 90m | |||||
36 |
★ Corvus
A good first pitch then easily to top. Start: Marked. Fairly obvious leftwards slanting weakness leading to thin crack.
FA: K.Westren & H.Luxford (alt leads) Apr 82 | 12 | 90m, 4 | |||||
37 |
★★ Dance Of The Butterfly
Enjoyable slab/wall. Start: Thin crack and weakness about 20 metres right of Wonga Crack.
FA: H.Luxford, B.Cameron & W.Moon Nov 82 | 14 | 30m | |||||
38 |
★★ Gentle On The Breeze
Very enjoyable slab and corner. Start: Marked. As for Dance Of The Butterfly, but moves right at 7 metres.
FA: H.Luxford & B.Cameron (alt leads) Oct 82 | 13 | 80m, 2 | |||||
39 |
Shattered Pillar
Third pitch provides interest. Start: Easy looking crack at right end of Raven Wall.
FA: B.Cameron & H.Luxford (alt leads) Nov 82 | 17 | 80m, 4 | |||||
40 |
Hidden Corner
An enjoyable, easy climb. Follows grade rather than line. Start: Corner just into gully at far end of wall.
FA: H.Luxford, S.Chambers & Nov 82 | 10 | 70m, 3 | |||||
Middle Buttress. | ||||||||
42 |
Cowboy
Start: Short corner on lower right side of buttress. Route follows easiest line up the buttress - that is all I can remember about it. FA: H.Luxford & J.Wayne Mar 84 | 13 | 85m | |||||
43 |
Pipedream
A long, fairly easy chimney. Start: Gully separating Middle and Bowerbird Buttresses.
FA: J.Wayne Mar 84, H.Luxford & K.Seddon Apr 83 | 13 | 70m, 4 | |||||
Bowerbird ButtressSecond largest buttress, the one with obvious crack lines and corners. | ||||||||
45 |
★★★ Soar The Wild Wind
Good climbing in a grand situation! Start: Up ramp at base of buttress, to tree.
FA: B.Cameron & H.Luxford (alt leads) Apr 83 | 18 | 75m, 4 | |||||
46 |
★ Thunderbirds Are Go
Superb line. Start: The orange crack system with small overhang. Giles does not remember much about the route, so I cannot give you a description. FA: G.Bradbury & G.Moore Apr 83 | 21 | 75m | |||||
47 |
Galah
A wandering route. Start: Middle of front of buttress.
FA: B.Cameron & H.Luxford (alt leads) Apr 83 | 17 | 75m, 4 | |||||
48 |
Sericulus
First climb on Bowerbird Buttress. Follows grade rather than line. Start: Right end of buttress. Large flake and weakeness to tree.
FA: B.Cameron & H.Luxford (alt leads) Oct 82 | 15 | 76m, 4 | |||||
49 |
★ Balmain Bugs
Thin and steep. Good looking line. Start: As for Sericulus.
FA: S.Moon, B.Cameron (alt leads) & Mar 85 | 22 | 70m, 3 | |||||
Peregrine Point. | ||||||||
51 |
Left Branch
Will be reasonable climb when fully cleaned. Start: Corner left of Silvertail.
FA: H.Luxford & R.Miller Nov 82 | 14 | 75m, 3 | |||||
52 |
Main Route
Second pitch worthwhile. Start: Just left of Silvertail.
FA: H.Luxford & R.Miller Nov 82 | 11 | 75m, 3 | |||||
53 |
Right Branch
Should be a good beginners climb when fully cleaned. Start: As for Main Route.
FA: H.Luxford & R.Miller Nov 82 | 9 | 60m, 3 | |||||
54 |
★★★ Silvertail
A first rate crack and climb. Start: Obvious hand size crack.
FA: H.Luxford & B.Cameron Nov 82 | 16 | 42m | |||||
55 |
★ Houken Ensemble
Looks harder than 20. Start: Corner right of Silvertail.
FA: S.Moon & B.Cameron Mar 85 | 20 | 50m | |||||
56 |
Wallopers
A good first pitch, the second is a shocker. Start: Thin crack in wall 10m left of Condor Corner.
FA: T.Williams & B.Cameron Apr 85 | 21 M0 | 60m, 2 | |||||
57 |
Condor Corner
An interesting first pitch. Big gear needed. Start: Obvious, largish corner on point of Peregrine.
FA: B.Cameron & H.Luxford Nov 82 | 19 | 55m, 2 | |||||
58 |
Joe Banana Blake
Looks a bit scrubby. Start: Corner right of Condor Corner.
FA: B.Cameron & B.Moon Dec 82 | 12 | 25m, 2 | |||||
North CragThe broken and short area at most northern part of gully. The rock is cleaner than it looks from the falls. | ||||||||
60 |
Cold Comfort
A bit of a grunt.
FA: H.Luxford, K.Westren & S.Parkes Jun 83 | 12 | 40m | |||||
61 |
Cleavage
Top section is worthwhile.
FA: H.Luxford & T.Seddon Jun 83 | 13 | 40m | |||||
62 |
Fun Time
First section OK.
FA: H.Luxford & T.Seddon Jun 83 | 11 | 45m |