Grade | Route | Gear style | Popularity | ||
---|---|---|---|---|---|
Cinderella Crag Pitt Street Wall | |||||
20 | ★★ Django
First large rock cairn. Up toughish start to a series of stepped overlaps. Anchors halfway up wall at large horizontal break. FFA: Simon Vaughan, 2013 | 15m, 5 | |||
Bungonia Gorge North Wall - Main | |||||
20 | Roger Ramjet
Large sized choss glazed with micro-choss, utterly petrifying.
FA: Matt Madin & Dave Magregor mid 80s, 1986 | 65m, 2 | |||
Bungonia Gorge South Wall - Main | |||||
20 | ★ Stardust
The next line right with four spaced FHs. Apparently there is no rap anchor so after the last bolt and below the overlap traverse left a long way to rap anchors above Pulsar. FA: Scott Camps, 1985 | 50m, 4 | |||
20 | Antique
Up the slab past three bolts to ledge and tree. | 50m, 3 | |||
20 M1 AID:A1 | ★★★ Red Supergiant
An alpine mega classic. Long loose and natural. Finishes at the highest point on the cliff, the Cooee Lookdown. Take plenty of long slings and big friends. Start: A chipped square marks the start.
FA: John Fantini & Dave Magregor, 1985 | 370m, 8 | |||
20 | Storm Front
Storm Front basically runs to the right of Evolution. Nasty loose blocks on ledges, very dirty rock, and vegetation filled cracks are the selling points of this gem. The climb either starts up Evolution, or 5m right (up the horrible hole thing), no idea which start is correct. On pitch 1 there is a 10m wide, delicate, rock arch/flake that you actually climb through (about 40m up, can be seen from the creek bed). "The last two pitches are not recommended" (first ascentionists)....a more objective view might be that the last seven pitches are not recommended!
FA: Mark Wilson & Richard Watts late '80s, 2000 | 270m, 7 | |||
Bungonia Gorge South Wall - Phantom Menace Wall | |||||
20 | Auto Arrest
Start about 30m upstream of Polenta Pumper. Scramble up easy flowstone to small ledge covered in vines. Sketchy flowstone choss for 6m to reach crack, then up major corner to belay ledge. Not recommended until bolts added to start. FA: Tony Barten & Mike Peck, 1986 | 30m | |||
20 | ★★ Jabba the Short
Jabba the Slut, stopping at the ringbolt under the roof. A good warm up if you get dragged up here on a 5 degree day. FA: Neil Monteith, 2012 | 15m, 7 | |||
Bungonia Gorge South Wall - Little Thai Wall | |||||
20 | ★ Lame Duck
To the right of Gilding The Lily. Finishes just under the roof at half height. FA: Chris Warner, 2003 | 15m | |||
Bungonia Gorge South Wall - Cooee Point | |||||
20 | The Fat Controller
The top is down and right (facing out) of the top of 'In the Realm of the Senses'. Rap in from 'In the Realm of the Senses' anchor, but using a directional bolt on the nearby arete to get to double rings at the base. Up a dirty loose crack on natural gear and then some nice face climbing (ring bolts). FA: Mike Peck 90s, 1990 | 25m | |||
Bungonia Gorge Reflux Crag | |||||
20 | A Ranger Deal
Start on the face and right side of the arete, behind a large tree. Very high first bolt - stick clip recommended. Upper third is a bit odd... Nice climbing to be had direct up the bulge, but the third bolt is actually hidden down and right behind a small bush and the route finishes with a traverse across to the rings on Angry Ants. | 12m, 3 | |||
20 | ★ Punchy
FA: Mike Law Smith | 12m | |||
Bungonia Gorge SRC Crag | |||||
20 | ★ Unknown 1
The contrived line of bolts furthest left, just left of the arete. Set: jason hayes, 1995 | 12m | |||
20 | ★★ RB
Marked start. Good climbing throughout (especially up the arete up high), but with a low crux with tricky protection. | 40m | |||
20 | ★★ #2 In The Hole
This routes starts in a water runnel directly below three holes.Climb up and right towards the steel hanger. Then continue up to top out. A #2 Camalot is handy for the crux move below the steel hanger FA: Mike Law Smith, crew & 1980s-1990's? | 20m | |||
Bungonia Gorge Bungonia Bouldering Gorge Main | |||||
V1 | Dabling Bottom
Sit starting on large block to the right. Traverse left, then up via obvious features. Try not to dab! FA: Adriana, 12 Sep 2020 | 2m | |||
V2 | ★ Rock Over
Sit starting on same block as Dabling Bottom. RH to good crimp, rock up on heel to triangular pocket to top out. FA: Nathan Condon, 12 Sep 2020 | 2m | |||
V1 | ★★ Capillary Action
Sit start matched on block then move right into the crack. Follow crack up and right. FA: Nathan Condon, 12 Sep 2020 | 2m | |||
V1 | ★ Crescent Goon
Start matched on slopey rail and then up. FA: Nathan Condon, 12 Sep 2020 | 3m | |||
V2 | Jugo De Naranja
Sit start on arete. And top out FA: Jarred Bof, 12 Sep 2020 | 3m | |||
Bungonia Gorge Bungonia Bouldering Upper Gorge Sector 1 | |||||
V2 | ★ Caravans
Sit start and straight up. | 2m | |||
V2 | ★ The Cut Away
Sit start and straight up. | 2m | |||
V2 | Make Do
Sit start straight up. | ||||
V2 | Ah, Push It
Sit start straight up. | ||||
V1 | Up & Away
Sit start straight up. | ||||
V2 | Crouching Tiger
Sit start straight up. | ||||
V2 | ★ Make A Stand
Stand start and up the slab. | ||||
V2 | ★ Break
Sitstart | 3m | |||
V2 | The water slide
Sit start with right hand in slot. | 3m | |||
V2 | ★★ The Water Slide Out
Sit start with left hand in slot and using right arete. | 3m | |||
V2 | Chocolate Fondue
Sit start and straight up blocks to top out. | ||||
V2 | ★★ Pumpkin Soup
Sit start and straight up the wall. | ||||
Bungonia Gorge Bungonia Bouldering Upper Gorge Sector 2 | |||||
V1 | ★ Legal Ramifications
Sit start on the big side pull over the void. Move straight up to top out. FA: Jack Folkes, 28 Sep 2014 | 3m | |||
V1 | Osgiliath
Stand start and straight up. | 2m | |||
V1 | ★ Mini Tower
Stand start and straight up. | 2m | |||
V2 | ★ Riverside
Stand start and up the right arete. | 3m | |||
Nerriga Nerriga Bouldering The Old Wool Road | |||||
V2 | ★ Calculate
Stand start on the head high edges. Head up trending left. Escape right off the ledge. Approach: After walking through the gap as described in the area approach, climb is located on the slabby face directly to the right. FA: Jack Folkes, 8 Jul 2018 | 4m | |||
V1 | Calculation
Right side of the scoop. Following the vague crack. Escape right off the ledge. FA: Jack Folkes, 2013 | 4m | |||
V1 | Tetris Left
Left of face and shield. Also down-climb. FA: Jack Folkes, 2013 | 5m | |||
V1 | ★ Tetriside
Right arete. FA: Jack Folkes, 2013 | 5m | |||
V1 | Loosidity
Sit start the loose rail. Move up and left, mantel. Right arete is not in. Approach: After walking through the gap as described in the area approach, continue down the rocky gully forward and slightly to the left. Climb is located on the large fallen boulder where the gully flattens out. FA: Jack Folkes, 2013 | 3m | |||
V1 | Loosid
Sit start the loose rail. Move out right to arete and mantle. FA: Jack Folkes, 2013 | 3m | |||
V1 | S for Slab
Simple slab. Top out via tree. FA: Jack Folkes, 2013 | 3m | |||
V1 | Hawker
Lowball. Start in a press and up the short headwall. FA: Jack Folkes, 2013 | 2m | |||
V2 | ★★ The Wool Road
Stand start with RH on the arete and a LH pinching a conglomerate rock. Head up the arete on the llft side. FA: Jack Folkes, 8 Jul 2018 | 3m | |||
V2 | Indecision
Climb the vague slopey crack from a sit. FA: Jack Folkes, 2013 | 3m | |||
Nerriga Nerriga Bouldering The Green Room | |||||
V2 | The Turn
Compression sit start, head straight up and over. FA: Jack Folkes, 11 Jul 2020 | 2m | |||
Nerriga Nerriga Bouldering Working Title Car park boulder | |||||
V2 | Bogans stole me tent
Sit start under the overhang on jugs. Up and slightly left to mantle. FA: James Lister, Mar 2021 | 2m | |||
Nerriga Nerriga Bouldering Working Title Story Train Boulder | |||||
V1 | ★ Wubba lubba dub dub
Stand start to mantle. FA: JL & KM | 4m | |||
V2 | 90% cum gutters
Hard sit start. Straight up. FA: James Lister, 3 Apr 2021 | 3m | |||
V1 | ★ Bird Person
Sit start on right arête finish as for 90% FA: James Lister, 3 Apr 2021 | 3m | |||
Nerriga Nerriga Bouldering Working Title Draft Dodgers | |||||
V2 | ★ Fantastic Fustercluck
Stand start with hands on large horizontal rail. Up Right on sharp holds to finish on obvious high pocket and mini jug. FA: KM, 9 May 2021 | 3m | |||
V1 | ★★ Psychoscape
Sit start on obvious pocket/undercling. Finish on horn. FA: KM, 8 May 2021 | 4m | |||
V2 | ★ Blue Meanie
Stand start on big holds up to comfy undercling then finish on big holds to the right. Undercling and finish holds seep and stay wet for some time after rain. FA: Ken McKeon, 6 Jun 2021 | 4m | |||
Nerriga The Gym and Environs Dead Head | |||||
20 | Viva Contreros
Start further right and traverse upwards to the ledge. Up the heucos above FA: Brogan Bunt & Andrew Dunbar | 15m | |||
20 | ★★ 3 Arseholes
Straight up the wall from the start of Viva FA: Pat Cotter & Mike Peck | 15m | |||
Nerriga The Gym and Environs Flintstone Slab | |||||
20 | Animal Appliances
Middle line and quite sustained FA: Brogan Bunt & Tony Barten | 20m | |||
20 | ★ Pebbles
FA: Pat Cotter & Tony Barten | 20m | |||
Nerriga The Gym and Environs orange wall | |||||
20 | midget madness
Approach to wall above (Sumo Dancer) 2 bolts ? | 8m, 2 | |||
Nerriga old wool north Oh Baby Buttress | |||||
20 | Transport of Delight
Bouldery start tending left through overlaps FA: Gavin Oliver, 2004 | 18m | |||
20 | ★★ Passion for the Possible
Start on narrow rib FA: Gavin Oliver, 2004 | 18m | |||
20 | Fear is a Mind Killer
Start as for PftP, after the second tend right before heading up. FA: Gavin Oliver, 2004 | 18m | |||
20 | ★ Pleasantly Warm
just right of AO FA: Corey Sawyer & Gavin Oliver, 2001 | 15m | |||
Nerriga old wool north West Side | |||||
20 | ★★ Dust Brothers
4 FH to shared DRBB | 15m, 4 | |||
Nerriga old wool north Austin Powers Ledge | |||||
20 | ★★ Where's my Mojo
Pull onto the steep wall and clip bolt, trend right following more bolts to DBB. FA: Rick Carey & David Cameron | 15m, 6 | |||
Bundanoon Bouldering Coal Mine Boulders The Cave | |||||
V2 | ★★ Low traverse
sit start on rock at right end of cave. low traverse staying below jugs on shelf. sit finish on rock. | ||||
V1 | dyno
dyno up to side pull | ||||
Bundanoon Bouldering Coal Mine Boulders The Boulder of Fortune | |||||
V1 | ★ Miss Fortune
up arete Set: Casey Robinson, 2011 | 3m | |||
V1 | ★ Mister Fortune
just right of arete. crimpes to dyno Set: Casey Robinson, 2011 | 3m | |||
V2 | Slab mantle
a novel problem. stand on slabby section | 2m | |||
Bundanoon Bouldering Echo point boulders Pickpocket wall | |||||
V2 | Pickpocket
sit start on left end of wall. follow line of pockets to match on wide slopey pocket FA: Casey Robinson, 2011 | ||||
The Monastery Sector 1 | |||||
V2 | ★ Rabbit Arete
Sloper corner arete around the corner from Bulbous. Up from the jug to top out left of the arete. | 4m | |||
V1 | In feet we trust
Crimp slab to sloper top out. 5m up hill from white rabbit | 3m | |||
V1 | ★ Nugget
Sit start on pockets crimps left of In feet we trust. Up arete to finish. FA: ben smith, 10 Apr 2023 | 2m | |||
V2 | ★ Acrophobia
Right of Suck It Mr Phillips, just right of the wet streak. Nice moves up to the sloper rail finish. Jump off. Horrific topout not recommended. | 4m | |||
V2 | Paula Abdul
Stand start and straight up. | 3m | |||
V2 | ★ Ridge-Matic
Stand start and straight up. | 4m | |||
V2 | Reagan
Stand start and straight up to a high finish. | 6m | |||
The Monastery Sector 2 | |||||
V1 | Tuna Can
Sit start and straight up. | 3m | |||
V2 | Scabby
Stand start over large tree toot and straight up on jugs. | 3m | |||
V2 | ★★ Closer
Stand start and straight up. After the 2019-2020 summer fires a large log is balanced right over the top of the crack necessitating topping out to the side. | 4m | |||
V2 | ★ Global Rover
Stand start and straight up. | 3m | |||
V2 | Buckets Of Grapes
Sit start and up left to finish on the big ledge. | 2m | |||
V2 | Increasingly Less
Sit start and up right to finish on the big ledge. | 2m | |||
V2 | New Gadgets
Sit start and up along ramp to top out. | 3m | |||
V1 | Gastronomy
Stand start and straight up. | 4m | |||
V2 | ★ Unappetizing
Stand start and straight up. | 3m | |||
V1 | ★ The Traverse
Same sit start as ‘36’ then traverse to the right using good rails. Can also use this route in reverse when down climbing the other boulders. | 4m | |||
V2 | Sudden Stop
Sit start and straight up. | 3m | |||
V2 | Flick Chicks
Sit start and straight up. | 3m | |||
V2 | ★ Trend Setter
Sit start and up left of the prow | 3m | |||
V2 | Above & Beyond
Stand start up right of the prow. | 3m | |||
V2 | Rewarding Oportunities
Stand start and straight up. | 5m | |||
V2 | Corporate Disorder
Sit start and straight up. | 5m | |||
V2 | Trail Snail
Sit start and straight up. | 5m | |||
V1 | ★ The Hangover
Stand start and straight up. Right most route, iron stone ledges and jugs. | 3m | |||
V1 | ★ Blog Snob
Stand start and straight up. Starts 1.5m left of the arete, trend vaguely rightwards following ironstone. | 3m | |||
V2 | ★★ Impact
Stand start and straight up. Start by juggy hole then up through the obvious dinnerplate. | 3m | |||
V2 | ★★ Clutter Free
Stand start and straight up. | 3m | |||
V2 | Cabinet Maker
Stand start and straight up. | 3m |