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Description

An area with a long and extensive history, which cannot be found any where on the interwebs. so all names and grades are up for scrutiny. I have named what is already marked on the rock. despite some vandalism there are actually some decent lines here, albeit long and forgotton.

A Crag that's got it all, Trad, Mixed, Sport, Top rope and bouldering. Not much in the Higher grades but plenty low to mid grade routes! Classic Sydney sandstone.

Approach

Park at the Cliff Oval car park and head west inside chain fence along top of cliff.

"South West Wall" - turn sharp left at the 10 km/h speed sign just before the carpark, and follow the track to stone steps that come out at the right end of the cliff.

"Abseil Wall/Main Wall" - follow trail starting at the north corner of the carpark.

Ethic inherited from North Shore

Respecting the enviroment and keeping crags clean will maintain a healthy and important relationship between the climbing community, local councils and National Parks. Carry out what you take in and enjoy what the North Shore has to offer.

If you come across an area that is being developed or you think could be under development, please show all due respect to the developers and do not climb the projects listed on thecrag.com.

History

View historical timeline

The area has been climbed since the early 1960s, when it was regarded as a practice area, better for easier, longer climbs compared to Lindfield. Bryden Allen's 1963 Rock Climbs of NSW records it as "A place often used for Search and Rescue practises" as it is still used today.

The range of old bolts visible in situ - from the earliest sleeved "Terriers", to expansions, mild steel coach bolts, home made hangers, death-spikes and rusty carrots - proves interest over the years. As do clean cracks free of piton scars. If it's there, it's probably already been climbed and claimed, so just rope up, rediscover and enjoy.

For numerous years the overhanging prow, the most prominent feature of the crag, was used for leader belay practice. The second would be belayed beneath the prow on the small ledge, a ‘runner’ was set up such that the load bearing crab was just hanging over the lip of the prow, and the belayer would jump from a standing position on the top of the prow with slack or not, depending how much they felt the belayer could handle. It was a good experience for everyone to experience real falls and understand the loads involved.

Areas

Add area(s) Add topo Reorder Bulk edit
Name
Style
Routes
Ticks
Height
Grades
 Trad climbing,  Top roping and other styles
32
93
7m
12
36
48
12m
10
Shady Side Cliff
1
2
7m
1

Activity

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