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Description

Main area where most scout and recreational groups operate. There are some decent routes here, although most of the wall is divided by a massive choss band. Beware of bottles and trash thrown from above, and worn gritty rock under the rap routes.

Ethic inherited from North Shore

Respecting the enviroment and keeping crags clean will maintain a healthy and important relationship between the climbing community, local councils and National Parks. Carry out what you take in and enjoy what the North Shore has to offer.

If you come across an area that is being developed or you think could be under development, please show all due respect to the developers and do not climb the projects listed on thecrag.com.

Routes

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Grade Route

Start: 3m right of Osso Buffo.

Pockets to small cam break, slab to medium break, then the fabled W'oonga topout - slopes and grit!

The real white wabbit lives on the cliff top further to the right, but you may need to pull one out of the hat to trad this lead out!

Overhang on pockets, slab to second overhang, then a hard slopy finish up the prow.

A line of manky old carrots, the first too high to prevent a ground fall at the first(?) crux, and the rest too rusty to trust. Kneebar the undercling and crank to glory and beyond.

Over the overhang on prolific pockets and continue north. Could be cams there for a bold lead.

Traverse right from the runnel then up via fine firm edges and lips.

Start just left of large scoop, up and slightly right then follow left side of runnel to top

Line of least resistance up juggy wall with cams in breaks. Beware gritty slopes and missiles hurled from above. Might seem run out.

Up short ramp to crux move, pull on to face. Easy up slab to top passing sandy cave on left.

Start at BHOTM marking. Up using slots to pull onto face, unprotected slabby crux, very balancy. First bolt is quite high, possibly a cam placement lower in a pocket or horizontal break

Begin in the corner and moving right just below the little cave to then go straight up the face.

Stem up flared and sometimes wet corner, or wall either side. 2 carrot belay on left ledge.

Hard start to pleasant finish. Belay as for Weeping Corner/ The Crack.

1m left of Weeping Corner. Pull through the roof on good holds past a very old rusty carrot. Then continue up black streak between orange scoops.

Stiff move to start, up to traverse and exit up right side of cave via slung horns and bad rope drag. Cunning pro in pocket at base.

Start at the light patch of wall. Good start an d up jugs to where the wall steepens. Climb up steep wall past the knob and then a long move to the top. Marked.

Tough start in front of where the tree meets the ledge. Climb up to the ledge and then up the crack next to the orange streak. Two good carrots at the top to set up top rope.

Marked undecipherable initials. hard stemming start, to an easy ramp, followed by a steep and stunning orange head wall.

Belay off carrot and small bollard 2m back from lip.

BEWARE there is a snake hibernating on a ledge on the head wall (Brown Tree Snake, Aug 2017). it is possible to use the ledge and climb around the snake, just don't put your fingers in too deep into ledge and wake the snake!

Start as for DWTS and veer right at head wall for a direct finish.

A steep start through hideous choss that leads to beautiful bomber orange sandstone. Don't let the start fool you! It's a stunner of a climb. It's roughly 20 from the ground up, for full value batman to first bolt and skip chossy beginning. 1 carrot on blank wall and medium sized cams in horizontal breaks. Two carrot belay.

Start as for T and move left once on ledge to arete and up to delicate slab finish. pink tricam on arete to prevent run out. 2 carrot belay.

No top anchors.

can be done in two pitches?! funky bolts Looks like the ghastly shine of twin gold plated expansion bolts half way up ... first ascentionist beware! Also no top anchors.

The ridiculously closely spaced bolt ladder running up the prow. Probably second only to Echo Junior in its Need To Be Freed.

Start at initials. Up slight overhang to ledge, then trend left and exit up runnel past old chopped Terrier (threaded sleeve) and later expansion bolt at the top.

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single carrot belay

Up overhang on small crimps to 2nd bolt then exit via runnel. Carrots look fair but should be tested. Some lower holds may be missing. Belay from trees or as for WWCD.

Climb the funky arete using the crack and breaks for solid pro. "Counterintuitive climbing."

Start: 1m left of 'HJ'.

Gymnastic move over the overhang then easily up the juggy wall with cams in breaks.

FA: Angus M & Graham Dowden, 18 Jun 2017

FFA: Graham Dowden, 1 Oct 2017

Lower overhanging wall here with a few boulder problems. Top rope from long equalised anchors to prevent bad landing.

Swing up to the right above the prow.

FA: Graham Dowden, 18 Jun 2017

Straight up past the prow.

FA: Graham Dowden, 18 Jun 2017

Past the scoop and left through the solid breaks.

FA: Angus M & Graham Dowden, 18 Jun 2017

Activity

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