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Courtyard Area

20

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Description

The main Browns Road area is pleasant in various conditions as different walls are shaded and sheltered from the wind. It has many hard short climbs or boulders, plus slabs, cracks and offwidths, so it's worth bringing a rack. Many of the worthwhile top rope problems have also been equipped as mixed routes.

Ethic inherited from North Shore

Respecting the enviroment and keeping crags clean will maintain a healthy and important relationship between the climbing community, local councils and National Parks. Carry out what you take in and enjoy what the North Shore has to offer.

If you come across an area that is being developed or you think could be under development, please show all due respect to the developers and do not climb the projects listed on thecrag.com.

History

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Unknown and sketchy details. If you have any details please update them.

Routes

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Grade Route

Following routes are on the main wall to your left when coming down the descent gully. Most of these routes have bolts for top roping.

Short crack on left when heading down descent gully with dirt-filled rounded top. Better to learn to jam elsewhere.

1st route on right wall after entering courtyard. Single ring protects the thin start. Move up to jugs and horizontals. Up to rounded top out. Small medium cams.

Up slab between DHC and CB. Crux is before the first bolt. Thin, delicate face climbing, then a double mantle. Small pro for the top out.

FFA: Sam Small, 12 Apr 2017

Hand crack to start up, on to block step right then finish up offwidth.

Thin finger crack to start leading to offwidth. Only requires 2 offwidth moves to top out. Take your big cam on this one.

Up Slab 1m right of FF

Up slab 1m left of SS. Looks like a reasonable line if it was cleaned and bolted. Any takers out there?

The obvious offwidth crack half way along main wall. Good line to practise offwidth skills, but can be climbed without them.

Up slab right of SS. Another of those thin slab lines that are the style of this area. now a mixed route. Small cam in pocket low down.

FFA: Sam Small, 1 Apr 2017

The thin hand crack at the south end of the courtyard. Good gear with some fun climbing. DBB.

A delicate route with some interesting moves

Start 3m right of Sardine.

Follow bolts up right leaning feature over bulge to finish. 3 ringbolts to lower offs.

Set by A Batey, Apr 2013

FA: Ranger Dave Archer, 5 Aug 2014

The following routes are located on The Block, starting facing in on the north eastern corner of the courtyard. Most routes have top DBB or ring bolts, and can be accessed for top roping if roped up and stepping across.

Some routes have bouldering grades from Nick Clow and have been duplicated and listed as sport because they contain BR's.

Up face past single BR to DBB on top of block. Thin start to sloping holds to gain the top. Lower moves offer some fun bouldering if you can find a partner.

There are several rings to abseil from the top of The Block. You may need slings to extend these rings and various carrots for toproping, as some are set back from the edge.

Start Marked. Up face past one BR to DBB on top.

The offwidth on the block.

Face climb left of Veronica. Looks to be in the high 20's

Interesting line up arete left of TC.

Nice longer face climb on southern end of The Block. Has been drilled at some point but not equipped.

Head through the chimney at the northern end of courtyard to reach the following climbs

Chimney on west face of block. Natural anchor at top and rap off rings into courtyard. The Usual Chimney style.

Left side of slab on north end of block. Thin sharp but positive holds. Could do with 2 rings in it.

Gets harder with height. One carrot. Single carrot belay. This is really a one move wonder, with the carrot protecting the top out move.

FFA: Sam Small, 12 Apr 2017

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