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Sandy Bay

  • Grade context: AU
  • Approach time: <1min
  • Photos: 2
  • Ascents: 149

Seasonality

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Summary

Numerous historical problems here in good quality sandstone; however the region requires documentation on thecrag.com

Description

Climbs described right to left

Access issues inherited from New South Wales and ACT

If you have benefited from climbing infrastructure in NSW, please consider making a donation towards maintenance costs. The Sydney Rockclimbing Club Rebolting Fund finances the replacement of old bolts on existing climbs and the maintenance of other hardware such as fixed ropes and anchors. The SRC purchases hardware, such as bolts and glue, and distributes them to volunteer rebolters across the state of New South Wales. For more information, including donation details, visit https://sydneyrockies.org.au/rebolting/

Approach

Drive into Sandy Bay Road from Peronne Avenue/Amiens Road, continue past the marina until the roundabout. Park anywhere near the roundabout, boulders line the eastern side of the road approximately 100m either side of the roundabout.

Ethic inherited from North Shore

Respecting the enviroment and keeping crags clean will maintain a healthy and important relationship between the climbing community, local councils and National Parks. Carry out what you take in and enjoy what the North Shore has to offer.

If you come across an area that is being developed or you think could be under development, please show all due respect to the developers and do not climb the projects listed on thecrag.com.

Routes

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Grade Route

The first routes are located just before the roundabout hidden behind the parking spots.

Many of the landings have been affected by 'beautification' by the council. If you are going to attempt any of these routes be sure you do not trample any of the plants (and if that's not possible, move on and try something else).

The two blocks hiding behind the roundabout.

Several juggy moves directly in the centre of the wall from a standing start leading into some small overhung crimps and a long reach to the ledge. Topout over the second section or crawl around the gap to the right.

Start just right of the arête in the juggy pockets. A long move to the top out through the cave

Fun steep jugging located just down from the roundabout on the bend. The routes are listed from left to right.

Slide deep into the back of the cave to start on an undercling. Move out to buttress via powerful moves (and yes, it's super low-ball roof).

FA: Unknown

Same start hold as 'The Sandy Traverse' then head straight up the flakey arete

FA: Unknown

Work the entire length of the lip starting on the far left side with two hands on the obvious ledge.

FA: Unknown

Start as for 'The Sandy Traverse' but stay with hands on the upper rail topping out as for '18' by mantling onto the ledge in the middle of the cave.

FA: Unknown

Set by Phillip Booth, 2020

Start on the obvious triangle jug towards the back of the roof near the middle of the cave and move to the right side via the lowest chalked rail to the far right side lip. Turn the lip and move directly up the remaining slab to top out.

FA: Unknown

Start on triangle jug as for 'The Sandy Bay Roof'. Head straight out towards the road and finish by mantling onto the shelf in the middle of the cave.

FA: Unknown

Start on triangle jug as for 'The Sandy Bay Roof'. Make a big move straight out towards the road and then head right to finish up the juggy arete.

FA: Unknown

Start both hands on the juggy hold under the lip. Climb directly outwards towards the road around the most overhung section of rock. Continue over the ledge to standing, and finish by topping out directly above.

Short wall just right of the cave. Sit start on chunky juggy side-pulls and head up via smaller holds to tricky top out.

FA: Unknown

The next bunch of routes are located further left between the cave and the stairs.

Direct.

FA: James Alexander, 2004

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Activity

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