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Mini crag with slab climbing, overhangs and cracks.


A small area with some quality mostly highball boulders, and short trad or toprope routes.


Original approach is from Darnley Oval in Gordon. Walk into park past toilet block, down into the bush and once past the first broken cliff line, you hit a well worn track. Turn right and follow this for 15-20m then turn off to continue down hill, passing down another two small broken cliff lines. The crag is on the third broken cliff line, level with Skull Rock. Straight down hill behind the toilet also gets there.

Alternately, continue right several hundred metres from Skull Rock along the same broken cliff line.


Clean! Plenty of rubbish from teenage drinking sessions so leave no more.



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Grade Route

Mush easier than it looks. Overhang then delicately up right edge of the cave.

FA: Graham Dowden & Angus M, 11 Feb

The obvious splitter crack.Your classic Sydney 2 piece trad route. Could definately be done as a highball, but was originally done on gear.

FFA: Sam Small, Jun 2016

Stand start with thin side pulls. Going to small edges, to top out.

FFA: Sam Small, 7 Oct

Corner crack that takes smaller gear than first appears: a 50-80mm cam or two will see you through some burly crackin'.

FA: Graham Dowden & Angus M, 11 Feb

Sit start in corner using right wall.

FFA: Sam Small, 7 Oct

A flared bottomless off-width.

Perhaps not everyone's cup of tea, so shove whatever you've got deep into the pot and stir vigorously!

FA: Graham Dowden, 11 Feb

Thin slab

short, steep climb 7m right of BITC. sit start on large edge, moving to small edges and slopers to top out.

FFA: Sam Small, 2016

Directly below the Peace Time Wall

Left hand starting on smooth pinch, going up in to a thumb catch

Set by Sam Small, Aug 2016

Classic no hands slab problem!

FFA: Mike Ashelford, 7 Oct

Start: Bottom right corner of The Odd Ball boulder.

A couple of delicate friction moves off the ground, then easily up the rest. Top rope anchor from bollard on top right, or rope slung over the top.

FA: Graham Dowden, 11 Feb


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