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Description

At the northern end of the cliff, less then 10m from your car at the end of the cul-de-sac. An area with good longer trad, mixed and sport climbs.

Take your bushcare gear and zap some of the abundant usual suspects while you're there: Lantana, Ochna, Privet, Fishbone Fern, Olive, etc.

Approach

Continue along from The High Alley, walk down slot, or rap from the tree above Browns Cows or another tree.

Ethic inherited from North Shore

Respecting the enviroment and keeping crags clean will maintain a healthy and important relationship between the climbing community, local councils and National Parks. Carry out what you take in and enjoy what the North Shore has to offer.

If you come across an area that is being developed or you think could be under development, please show all due respect to the developers and do not climb the projects listed on thecrag.com.

History

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Some new (~2014) stainless hangers and lower-offs have been added to replace ancient mild steel items..

Routes

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Grade Route

#Dangerous. This climb has a giant loose block above the bolts that appears to be balanced on a small chockstone. If you pull on it or snag the corner with a rope it may rip out. You have been warned.

Right end off wall. Up crack to slab passing 2 BRs, horizontal break and up to top. DBB on top.

FA: A.Batey, 14 Feb 2014

Up crack head left to FH, up wall past 2nd FH, cam in break and continue to top.

Still waiting to get back and replace the old hanger.

Start 3m left of TCFTH. Lay back move to gain horizontal then traverse L to arête, then up to FH on R, and right to scoops, FH on L, (Horizontal for gear and) up on edges to Lower offs (DRB).

There are an another set of DRBs, about 1m above the Lower offs, to rap in if you like. (All bolted with stainless in Sep. 2013)

Left end of TCFTH wall. Start at shallow crack. Up to FH on R, continue straight up passing an another FH and Lower Offs to share with climb 1.

Cant remember if this one was actuakly bolted. got a feeling i ran out of glue. was a long time ago

Chimney and crack at left end of TCFTH wall. Mantle, short chimney then small roof and up crack to right. Solid pro in cracks and breaks, and tree belay.

Line of close space aid bolts up blank wall. Looks like a good place to practise aiding.

Starts to the left of the bolt ladder on ledge. Warning Loose Blocks. Up natural line of the crack heading left until meeting the finger crack.

(loweroffs will be installed September 2014)

Start at the thin crack next to the chimney. Up to ledge step left then up nice finger crack to short headwall. (lower offs to be added September 2014)

Head along and down the hill slightly to the cave. A little overgrown at the base but appear to be nice lines.

Please record a grade for these if you climb them.

Right line of close spaced ubolts through steep section to lower off.

Left line of U Bolts. Follows the steep left side of the cave to lower off.

Following on from the two sport climbs the bush becomes thick. How ever there are a number of Trad routes down this way. They top out at the back fences of houses above so climbing them is not recomended.

Activity

Check out what is happening in TCFTH Area.