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Description

Short cliff down the hill from YKS Wall. Some of these climbs were probably done or soloed in the past.

Has several pairs of new glued stainless top anchors, and some useless recent zinc-plated bash-ins that should be removed. Horizontal cam breaks tend to be good, opening out inside.

Approach

From YKS head left down the hill for 10m

Ethic inherited from North Shore

Respecting the enviroment and keeping crags clean will maintain a healthy and important relationship between the climbing community, local councils and National Parks. Carry out what you take in and enjoy what the North Shore has to offer.

If you come across an area that is being developed or you think could be under development, please show all due respect to the developers and do not climb the projects listed on thecrag.com.

History

View historical timeline

Some old carrots show evidence of past climbing.

Routes

Add route(s) Add topo Reorder Bulk edit
Grade Route

Start in middle of slab on ledge. Unprotected bouldery move to start. Up slab using horizontal breaks for gear and follow the natural line. Make sure you take a 20-30mm cam. DBB at top.

FA: A.Batey, Jan 2014

Start right of the arete (left of MAWS). Hard start past a bolt, then up the arete past another bolt and cams to the top. DBB. Bolted by previous party.

FA: Enmoore Lin, 9 Mar 2014

Start about 3 m right of GOM move up over bulges then to arête and head up to single carrot then up to grumpy mans nose and top out. Cams and single bolt. Use same DBB as GOM

FA: A.Batey, 22 Feb 2014

Gets it name from the feature at the top looking like an old mans face. Start in the middle of the slab. Up past two bolts until you reach the horizontal breaks. Move right to the old mans nose and then up to the top. Small to medium cams. DBB on top

FA: A.Batey, Jan 2014

The wide corner-crack with plenty of good gear and decent climbing - an easy trad lead. DBB on top or walk off. Probably done in the dark ages.

FA: A.Batey & G.Muraoka, Jan 2014

Up the slab to the left of TA. Thin balance moves with good small pro to a sloper layback top out. Left arête is off.

FFA: Sam Small, 1 Apr 2017

Start at shallow crack. Up to ledge (bolt will be added to protect start) cams in pockets the up the arête. Thought provoking at the grade but a decent trad lead. DBB on top.

Set by A.Batey

FA: A.batey, G & Muraoka, Jan 2014

Start at shallow crack on wall up past bolts and moving left to thin moves to finish on scoops below rounded top out. Needs lower offs added.

Set by A.Batey

Activity

Check out what is happening in Lower cliff.