Killara Guide

Traverse upside down through the roof above the ledge.

From the back of the cave follow the slots out through the roof.

Start on two flat jugs and move through crimps to finish up jugs.

Start on the hold above the ledge, and follow chalked holds to join up with Lower Cave B to the top.

Classic. Use only the holds in the beta vid for your hands, anything for feet. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xjnKqjrdq-w

Start on the jug/slot on the right, head up then traverse left to join the V3.

Phillip Booth

Starts right at the slot/jugs, head up and left (above Dragon's Den) to join the V3.

Start as for 'Dragon's Den' then traverse left along the bottom lip holds joining into 'Lower Cave B'. The bottom ledge is off.

A pumpy number that climbs like one long boulder problem. Thought provoking moves up the face followed by generous holds through the roof. RBs the whole way.

Start up the nudist. When you get to the anchors throw for a big move right around the mossy face then follow the lip of the roof for another 5m on a sightseeing tour of bygone bolts (clip the fresh ones though). Finishes at chains, second or back-jump to clean.

Start up from the sloping rail and move quickly to the chalked jug. A series of big moves through increasingly bad slopers brings you to the roof. Even bigger moves to more friendly holds on the lip and swing on through to the anchors of the Nudist Route. 2 FHs followed by 2RBs to the anchor. Grade in the realm of 25. Stick-clipping the first bolt strongly recommended.

Link Riders of Rohan into the Nudist extension finish. Reasonably classic and good pumping fun.

Start below the beginning of Mummy Dust and dyno your way up to a good jug near the first manky bolt. The arete and big break are off, as is matching hands.

Long moves on jugs! Start on the big break a bit right of the arete / start of 'Mummy Dust' and dyno up to the next chalked jug. Continue up to same finishing hold for '2'. Good one to get the juices flowing.

Grade aligned with other routes here, might be V2?

Sit start for Jug 1 and finish for Sobek

Sit start on undercling and finish out right on jug.

Start as for Mummy Dust but go high to the start of The High Traverse.

The classic training problem. Usually done left to right. If you don't rest in the little cave it is apparently equivalent to a 28.

A series of desperate iron crosses that links into Mummy Dust.

Up via the big undercling hole.

Layaway to layaway to jug. Balancy and committing.

Sit start as for 'The Ramp' and head up to join original stand start.

A powerful and desperate crag classic. Start matched on the bottom sloper rail and power up the slopey ramp, past an edge, to the finish jug up high (on 'The High Traverse').

Phillip Booth

Yet another dyno.

Originally climbed back when the pyramids were being constructed. Now on some more friendly bolts. Start up the boulder problem 6, then do another boulder problem, followed by a dyno and another 2 boulder problems to get to the anchor. The grade is an absolute guess, and the real name and first ascensionist is a mystery. (does anyone know?)

Start up Mummy's Old Carrots, clip the anchor and climb past the fixed nut into the crack below the roof. Follow this all the way until it fizzles out past multiple blobs of old coach screw. Back jump (consider re-aiding if too tired) to clean. Whispers amongst the local trees suggest that back in the day this was in the realm of 28/29 but someone local and wise may have some more solid information on this (as well as the real name and FA).

Traverse left and up out of the cave. Heel hooking is off.

Start on the low ridge edge just right of the start of the recess. Go up via big chalked scoop to the 'The High Traverse' avoiding the chalked holds on the right baby arete. Then continue left and finish matched on the final hold of '7'.

Another easy warm-up for the cave. Start as for '8' on the right side of the cave then go up and traverse left on the high chalked holds (reversing 'The High Traverse'). Match on the final hold for '7' to finish.

Traverse right out of the cave.

Yet another problem that's been vandalised. The starting flake is bit smaller than it used to be. Jump from the starting flake to the next flake and then straight up.

One of the best 5s in Sydney. Start right hand in the pocketey side pull just left of the scoop and go straight up aiming for the nice uncut just left of the scoop up high. Nails.

Up crack

From the arete traverse right finishing up Bog On Up.

About half way between the arete and Bog On Up is a faint feature around head height with two slopes on either side. Grab the slopes and make a series of desperate slaps to the right finishing up Bog On Up.

Mantle the good holds

Start on the lowest holds and pop for the small edges then up over left. There used to be a big edge, but it has been smashed off so this is now probably harder than V3.

Sit start and a long reach. The arete and the big edge half way up on its left are off. Mike Croker

Right of arete, starting very low. 'Arete' is off.

Easiest way off the Block

Start on obvious jug. Needs some repeats to confirm grade. Good start sequence.

Eson Zhao

Since the jug has been smashed off by some vandal this may be undoable by mere mortals.

Start in the back of the cave, up out over the jugs and wrestle with the tricky finishing mantle.

From the logical start holds, climb the roof to the big hollow hole before topping out. All holds are in, even the big flake out left.

Start on the obvious, well chalked hold in the center of the wall. Traverse left using the SAME level of holds for your hands. All foot holds are in. finishing around the corner on the mega end jug. Classic.

Done sit starting as for Super Birdman and topping out round the corner at V5/6. MD 2023.

Sit start on farthest right undercling, rock onto face and finish via juggy mantle

Low start to 35mg starting on jugs on back wall.

Start under roof on jugs and bust out via the underlcing to finish up and left on the face.

Direct finish of Super birdman.

Start on the big flat hold and climb up the wall on nice edges

Climb the blunt arete starting in the break.

Stand on the small rock to reach a side pull edge with your right hand. Jump to the chicken head then throw to the top. Short but sweet.

Start left han don the side pull crimp and right hand on the horizontal crimp. Pull on (no jump starts), throw to the flat edge and finishing as for Friday Night Lights.

The best line on this boulder. A crimpy traverse leads to a big throw and tricky top out. Start at the obvious sit start on the left of the boulder and follow the obvious line right. Dyno to the top when you reach the flat edge and chickenhead.

Climb Friday Night Lights to the flat edge then cross to the chicken head with your left hand to finish as for Half-Time Orange.

Start on the two micro crimps, throw to the jug then make long lock-offs to a classic mantle top out.

Start on the big jug and make a big move left to a tiny edge.

Sit start as for Friday Night Lights and climb straight up past some microscopic crimps.

Stand start and climb the faint arete using whatever holds you can find.