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Description

Another sector but with some interesting features but gritty friable rock, pockets, and red lichen. Fairly short routes, and not much shorter bouldering, often with heady, slopey top outs as their crux. They wouldn't feel so difficult closer to the ground - unlikely to be popular with gym junkies! Top anchors mostly trees with a couple of bolts.

Approach

From the car park outside the reserve walk right past the main area until just before the speed hump toward the lookout at the end. Of from the end, walk left down hill until until the first speed bump. A faint track drops down steeply, then left (facing out) around the base of a gradually growing cliff line with some bouldering before the longer routes. Follow this along the ledge and around the corner to the main cliff line.

Descent notes

There is also an access gully at the far right of the crag (looking in). Beware the 6m drop below the left hand access route above the Lower Cliff.

Ethic inherited from North Shore

Respecting the enviroment and keeping crags clean will maintain a healthy and important relationship between the climbing community, local councils and National Parks. Carry out what you take in and enjoy what the North Shore has to offer.

If you come across an area that is being developed or you think could be under development, please show all due respect to the developers and do not climb the projects listed on thecrag.com.

History

View historical timeline

There's certainly been some ascents in the past (old carrot bolts). Any history is unknown to the developer who heard about the crag from a friend.

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Routes

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1
V3 ★ The painful pursuit of pleasure Boulder 3m

On the first wall you walk past, about 3m before the first corner. Up on sharp crimps before moving right to good ramp and up. Nice.

FA: dwebster, Nov 2015

2
V0 Life Is More Than Meat Boulder 3m

Corner crack avoiding the walls.

FA: Graham Dowden, 11 Nov

3
V0 ★ Mountains of Stuff Boulder 3m

Left arete of high front face on its left side, moving leftwards at top to finish. Great.

FA: dwebster, Nov 2015

4
V0 The Slot With The Lot Boulder 3m

Not many Sydney climbs can claim to be fully enclosed, but if you want sub-meter chimney in the semi-underworld this has it all.

Start: Behind the face climbs, or walk down from above.

Compress into it at any number of places, with or without petrophilic flora and overhangs, to your personal taste.

FA: Graham Dowden, 11 Nov

There is a 5-6m drop right below the 1m path at the base of the cliff from here to around the corner, so a top rope is prudent.

5
V2 More than money Boulder 3m

Same arete, but climb it on the right side.

FA: dwebster, Nov 2015

6
V3 Dying with the most toys Boulder 4m

Start about 2m left of right arete on front face. Up through flakes to top flake and over. Hint: Look right over the lip, and don't fall!

FA: dwebster, Nov 2015

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7
V3 Don't do it for glory Boulder 4m

Right arete on its right side, moving rightish towards top, but topping out left of the crack.

FA: dwebster, Nov 2015

8
V3 Materialism Vortex Boulder 4m

Starting at arete just left of wide crack (good for decent). Roughly follow the crack that goes diagonally left to top, but finish on right side of crack.

FA: dwebster, Dec 2015

9
V3 Satisfied in him Boulder 4m

Start at same arete, but go straight up. Stay left of wide corner crack.

FA: dwebster, Dec 2015

10
V2 Life isn't about stuff Boulder 3m

About 8m left of LO there's a slab in the corner with a rail running across is. Traverse this right to left then climb arete.

FA: dwebster, Nov 2015

11
V4 ★ What does it profit a man? Boulder 3m

Grab the rail of LIAS and move straight up the face. Good.

FA: dwebster, Nov 2015

12
Unknown Top ropeProject 5m

Just right of WdiPaM? The steep, short, crimpy wall. Nothing is known about this route except that it has a single belay bolt above it and that it's tough!

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13
21 ★★ Le Originale Sport 7m

Nothing is known about the original line here. It has been rebolted in the same way as the original. Start about 2.5m left of the first bolt. Using side pull, move up to jugs and then right to 1st bolt. Up and over lip using small, hidden chipped holds (part of the original line).

FA: dwebster, Nov 2015

14
18 1-1-18 Trad 6m

Corner crack, exiting via wall to left, or clean out the leaf litter and go Over The Top. Gritty either way.

No doubt done before.

FA: Graham Dowden, 1 Jan

15
17 Not living on bread alone Sport 6m

The left side of the corner about 5m r of LO. For the full experience (20) start seated directly below the first bolt of LO on a sloping edge. Move up then all the way along the break rightwards before heading up.

FA: dwebster, Feb 2016

16
19 ★ Somme Climb Sport 6m

About 3m right of corner. Up steep flake and up to lower offs (not over).

FA: dwebster & Blake Hawkins, Nov 2015

17
22 ★ Mini Sub Sport 7m

Start about 4m right of SC at obvious scoop. No using the tree to start! Up and over, left at last bolt for slopey finish.

FA: dwebster & Blake Hawkins, Feb 2016

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18
18 ★ Sans Mains Trad 5m

Up cave to full body rest on sandy ledge, turn out to jam crack, then big moves up the lichen layback. Beware the chockstone that goes "boomp" and any other loose bits.

FA: Graham Dowden, 1 Jan

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19
20 ★ Le Miserable Sport 6m

Left most route on final poxy/seamed face. Follow flake then then right to seamed face. Finish left at last bolt, using face to left for feet.

FA: dwebster, Feb 2016

20
23 Le Bonne Damme Olivia Sport 6m

Middle route on final poxy face. Jump to pod, then up, right to rest, and rightwards at final bolt. Hard crux sequence if you're short!

FA: dwebster, Feb 2016

21
19 Blunt Bayonet Sport 6m

Right most route on final poxy face.

FA: dwebster & Blake Hawkins, Nov 2015

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