Grade | Route | Gear style | Popularity | ||
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Blues Point Life Aquatic Wall | |||||
V3 | ★ Gold Amongst The Grains
Carrots now in place for those who wish to top rope this problem set at grade 17. Sit start same as ELAP. Move up to the top of the scoop and then left to the thin crimp. From there use the assortment of rounded side pulls to move up and top out slightly right, same as "STWS" and "RC" Some challenging moves through the middle. FA: | 6m | |||
V4 | ★★ ELAP
Super Classic Problem. Helps to do yoga before (especially the Extended Lateral Angle Posture) Sit start at Red Cheeked and move up to the top of the scoop before heading left to the little side pulling crimper. Finish with both hands on large ledge in Salute to the Sun Posture. Repeat. FA: | 3m | |||
V3 | ★ Crimp And Save
A contrived climb with a powerful technical start. Start just right of Perfect Flake, with this easy crack out of bounds! Using smears and two side pulls head up to the bulge on the left above the out of bounds ledge line that's about head height. Keep moving up using controlled power (no Dynos) and mantle out. As to avoid temptation, there are only 5 useable holds for this V3. Less is Best! FA: | 3m | |||
V4 | ★★ Crimp and Collect
The positive matchstick edge crimps left of TOCAC crack. Avoid the crack until the holds truly run out, then sidepull the top 40cm block at the top of the crack to finish. Start wherever you can, options converge quickly. Sit-start also possible. Currently doable (Sep 2021) but the top metre a bit obscured by branches. FA: Tim Clarkson, 2013 | 4m | |||
Blues Point Kung Fu Captin Wall | |||||
V4 | ★ Mikes Magic
Starting just left of Monkey Magic, on the wall right of the obvious vertical crack line (Fingers Full of Steel), Use the angled crimpers, while avoiding the holds of Monkey Magic and climb up the face, scarce with holds. Finish with both hands on the sandy ledge common to the other climbs FA: Mike croker, 23 Sep 2020 | 3m | |||
V3 | ★ Direct Hit
Sit start on wall just left of the vertical crack line. Without using the crack move up and under chossy roof. Balance required! FA: max michell | 3m | |||
V4 | ★★★ Bruce Lee
Super fun, challenging climb. Sit start left of vertical drill line, using two gaping holes. Move right and up to finish with your head touching the manky roof. Pivoting, smears, laybacks and slaps makes this a truly intricate, technical climb. If you don't mind Beta - check out this 3 star wonder here - http://youtu.be/81_X2kNe1Xo FA: | 3m | |||
V4 | ★ Training to be Bruce Lee (Extension Var.)
Starting on the left of Bruce Lee just before the Peeking Patch Jurrassic Root, you should see a pocket and a sidepull. Sit start on those two starting holds and traverse to the finish of Bruce Lee. FA: benthepleb, 22 Aug 2021 | ||||
Blues Point Peeking Patch | |||||
V3 | ★★ Coal Train Blues
After entering the bushes and passing a Jurassic Park like tree root vertically exposed along the wall, this is the first climb you will see. With a pile of coal at the bottom (the old rusty bbq is in the tree root), this problem follows the iron ledge meandering up the cliff. A fun pumpy climb with good holds, for those who look for them. Once you have ridden the train tracks up to the top try not to grab grass for the top out. This climb offers the perfect balance of height and holds! Once on top, remove your harmonic and lament your 13hour days working at the mill... FA: | 5m | |||
V3 | ★★ Saved By Ents
Start in front of square cutout a bit above head height. Using said cut out and finger cracks, boost up to a slapper. Follow the angled slope, until you can slap the exposed rounded ledge under the over hanging trees and grass. Enjoy the last hold and try and top out without aid from the Ents If going for the Onsight, clean before you climb For full grade, finish with both hands on smoothed over ledge. Down climb is best to the left. FA: | 4m | |||
Kurraba Point Harbour Side Slabs The Steel Cap Slabs | |||||
V3 | ★★ Ministry Of The Left
At the first Slab you come to start at the right hand side of the left arete. Undercling and side pull your way up and then enjoy the technical moves of this arete problem From top to bottom the left hand is bound to the arete, while the right hand and both feet are free to wander! Love the laybacks, delicate smears and some cool problem solving!
FA: | 5m | |||
V4 | ★★★ Oh Man, Oh Man, Oh Man
A beautiful climb with minimal holds requiring some dedicated core strength and balance. For all lovers of laybacking! At the sharp arete of the first slab you come to, start on the left side, using the corner and its features to reach the top. The holds are predominantly on the left of the arete but the climb utilises the holds on the right face within 30cm of the arete. Balance, Dedication and a satisfying finish!
FA: | 5m | |||
V3 | ★ A Face Like An Anvell
You'll need to hit this one hard with big moves, but the holds aren't as lovely as they seem Start 1m right of the arete in the Scoop. Without using the arete to the left or the holds on the orange streak to the right, power up using the side pulls, sloping pinch and some solid reach Finish on the ledge common to all the slab problems and then down climb via the method of your choice
FA: | 4m | |||
V3 | ★★ Brothers In Chalk
Some awesome balancing slab, full of commitment and trust! Start facing the orange vertical streak about 1m left of the corner. Using some of the left most holds of "United By Brushes" and some thin, delicate bumps and pinches move up. At the large ledge with the carved out indent the problem moves right to mingle with UBB. Here the large carved out area and the ledge is out of bounds! Use only the holds to the right along this ledge line to keep the grade! Down climb the same you went up or via SCSC
FA: | 5m | |||
The Spit Sandy Bay | |||||
V3 | ★ Dude, Where's My Car?
Sit start, then up and right of the arete via a big pocket and an obvious flake. | ||||
V4 | No Stopping
From the left arete, move 2m right and up for a fun time and desperate top. | ||||
V3 | The White Line
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V4 | 3
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V3 | 7
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V3 | ★ 8
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V4 | ★★ 9
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V4 | ★★ 12
| 6m | |||
V3 | ★★ 14
Start just right of the arête in the juggy pockets. A long move to the top out through the cave | 6m | |||
V4 | ★ Gladys
The route starts on "The Sandy bay roof" V6. Follow the line that is going right until you reach the end of the good hand holes then jump on the big jug of the v4 "Roadkill" (jug just above Roadkill's start). Then follow the Roadkill line. This is a link-up. It is an "endurance boulder" with a decent rest in the middle. FA: Clement Bouchet, 1 Oct 2021 | 6m | |||
V4 | ★★ Deep Diver
Slide deep into the back of the cave to start on an undercling. Move out to buttress via powerful moves (and yes, it's super low-ball roof). FA: Unknown | ||||
V3 | ★★ The Sandy Traverse
Work the entire length of the lip starting on the far left side with two hands on the obvious ledge. FA: Unknown | 10m | |||
V3 | ★★ Man Overboard
Start on triangle jug as for 'The Sandy Bay Roof'. Head straight out towards the road and finish by mantling onto the shelf in the middle of the cave. FA: Unknown | 4m | |||
V3 | ★★ Roaring Forties
Start on triangle jug as for 'The Sandy Bay Roof'. Make a big move straight out towards the road and then head right to finish up the juggy arete. FA: Unknown | 3m | |||
V4 | ★ Roadkill
Start both hands on the juggy hold under the lip. Climb directly outwards towards the road around the most overhung section of rock. Continue over the ledge to standing, and finish by topping out directly above. | 4m | |||
V3 | The Pebble South Side
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V4 | The Pebble East side
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V4 | 24
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V3 | ★★ 25
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V4 | ★ 26
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The Spit Pearl Bay The Overhanging Boulder | |||||
V4 | ★★★ The Block Arete
Awesome jug hauling up the stunning overhanging prow leads to a crimpy, 'easy yet somehow desperate', exit. Start low and stay true to the prow. A picturesque must-do classic. Variant: Use a few higher jugs on the left and take a couple of grades off - still fun. FFA: Unknown | 4m | |||
The Spit Pearl Bay The Pearl Bay Quarry | |||||
V4 | ★★ Pearl
Start low with your hands on the big reverse layaway, then slap up the overhanging arête to finish on Jump and Mantle (the big sandy foot ledge is on). | 3m | |||
V3 | ★ Cripple Club Mantle
Start as for pearl, left hand up to the crimp on the arête and push out the mantle on the blank face FFA: Mattias FA: Probably lots of people | 3m | |||
V4 | Adrift
Start as for 7 then traverse left before climbing up via the big pocket. | ||||
V3 | ★★ 7
a highly unusual problem - it's actually easier if you face away from the rock! Park your bum on the left side of the slopey ledge and reach up for the break. Very Cool, though I'm not sure if the Fonz would agree. FA: Unknown | 4m | |||
V4 | ★★ 9
Start as for problem #8, but walk the ledge rightwards and finish on the jug on the arête (or higher up if you wish). Stretchy, balancey, and good fun. FA: Unknown | 4m | |||
V4 | Black Pearls
In the middle of the boulder to the left of Three storey Rock, go up the right tending flake, then leave the flake to go left passing two slopey crimpers and top out as for Stick Your Foot In. FA: Martijn van Eijkelenborg, 25 Apr 2016 | 4m | |||
Obelisk Beach | |||||
V4 | ★★ Obelix
Crag classic. Heel and toe hooks to a topout. | 3m | |||
V3 | Right eye
Stand start from the big hole and the vertical edge. | 4m | |||
V4 | No eye
Sitstart. | 4m | |||
Balmoral Lawry Plunkett Reserve | |||||
V4 | ★ Alexander Fig Newton
Climb the left side of the bulb, left of the groove. FA: Daniel da Silva, 1 Sep 2018 | 4m | |||
V3 | ★ Ain't Nuthin But A Twang
Stand start on the jug on the lip and mantle up the face to top out. FA: Fat Fab, 9 Sep 2018 | 4m | |||
Balmoral | |||||
V3 | Flake to Wafer
The Flake in the Left Cave FFA: Za Utopia, 1990 | ||||
Cremorne Brightmore Reserve | |||||
V4 | ★★ The Stone Table
Cool! The left side of Cair Paravel boulder. Start with one hand in the low scoop and one on the arete. Follow the rising arete with poor feet. Not over the top till the top! FA: dwebster, Sep 2015 | 5m | |||
V4 | ★★ Aslan
Right side of Cair Paravel boulder. Start at left end of scoop with underclings. Gain good hold over lip (under little overlap). Over and up. FA: dwebster, Sep 2015 | ||||
V3 | ★ Reepacheep
Start just right of A in the scoop. Up the arete (without using the block on the right). FA: dwebster, Sep 2015 | ||||
V3 | Aslan's How
Up the hill and left from Zachaeus. Start with butt on ground on right side. Traverse the lip till you're over rock, then mantle. FA: dwebster, Sep 2015 | ||||
V3 | Eustace
Down and left of the Stone Table (looking in). Start at blunt right arete and traverse it as far rightwards as possible. FA: dwebster, Sep 2015 | ||||
V3 | ★★ Edmund
Start in the middle of the face with two obvious pockets. FA: dwebster, Sep 2015 | 4m | |||
V4 | ★★ Susan
Start at the base of the ramp on the right arete. Sit start, moving awkwardly up the ramp. Then up and left to a good horizontal line. Follow it till established on face. Then rightwards up the round arete. FA: dwebster, Sep 2015 | 4m | |||
Cremorne Primrose Park Bum Crag | |||||
V3 | ★ Bum Arete
The left side of the main sharp arete. Starting on the blocks. Try not to fall! FA: Blake Hawkins, Oct 2016 | ||||
V4 | Soup Kitchen
The obvious arete 6m right of Homeless. Maybe v3, but a grade added for head space. FA: dwebster, Oct 2016 | ||||
V3 | ★ Sleeping Rough
Start and finish as for loitering, but never use the lip until the overlap near the top. FA: dwebster, Oct 2016 | ||||
V3 | ★ Million Dollar View
Still on the slabby block. Start on the right end, just right of the tree. Move straight up to the apex. FA: dwebster, Oct 2016 | ||||
V4 | ★ Escaping the Rat Race
Start as for HPH. Just after the historic chipped holds, move over the lip. FA: dwebster, Oct 2016 | ||||
V4 | Tramp
Start as for Super Tramp. Over lip and escape around left. Bad landing. FA: dwebster, Nov 2016 | ||||
V4 | Super Tramp
Starting in the little cave at the bottom of the other long block. Yes, behind the black pipe. Sit start. Over lip and then easily up and right all the way up the block, only using the lip just before the tree. Don't fall at the top! FA: dwebster, Oct 2016 | ||||
Bicentennial Reserve Left of Cave | |||||
V4 | ★★ Hard way out.
Start on crimps, move up and left, move right along overhung arete, mantle the left hand side of the overhang. FA: Cameron Evans | 6m | |||
Bicentennial Reserve Far Left | |||||
V3 | ★ Slip Sloper Slap
Try top out this blank thing, starts hands in 2 pockets, feet anywhere. | 4m | |||
Bicentennial Reserve Right of Cave | |||||
V3 | ★★ Bumper to Bumper
Out to the right. Main start hold, up to close left pinch, out to right finger jug, up to long slit, follow out right and bump to your hearts content. FA: Cam Evans | 6m | |||
V3 | ★ Linky Dinky
Link the start of "Stand Easy." into "bumper to bumper" | 6m | |||
V3 | ★★ Stand Easy
Real low sit start to the right of the main start hold, bump up and throw, stand easy. Top out using the right side of the intersecting tree. FA: Cameron Evans | 6m | |||
Middle Cove The Chief's Big Chief Sitting Rock | |||||
V3 | ★ Long The Bison Roams
A core strength loving slap and smear traverse with great holds and a slight over hang Sit start at the far left of the wall, straddling the rounded arete. Pull up to the top of the rock and without letting your feet touch the ground, slap and smear your way to the right Staying on the ledge lines at the top of the wall move right until you at the far arete. love the easy arete up for the top out. Reach and endurance required! Set: Ranger Dave Archer, 2013 FA: David Muir, 18 May 2014 | 6m | |||
V3 | ★ Project 5
Start in the cave on the lowest jug. Make your way out left, around the arete and top out. FA: Ranger Dave Archer, 2013 Set: Ranger Dave Archer, 2013 | 3m | |||
V4 | ★ Kookaburra Attacked My Girlfriend
Same start as Project 5. Go up to the crimp rail from the cave and make your way right to a good crimp to top out. The crimp left of the cave from Project 5 and Project 6 is out. Vid: Richard C | 3m | |||
V3 | Pants Up Hands Down!
Start on lowest jug in cave. Climb your way under and around, topping out the same way as Project 5. Very satisfying toehook sequence. | 3m | |||
V3 | ★★ Project 7
Set: Ranger Dave Archer, 2013 FA: Ranger Dave Archer, 2013 | 3m | |||
V3 | ★★ Project 9
Set: Ranger Dave Archer, 2013 FA: Ranger Dave Archer, 2013 | ||||
V3 | ★ Shorties Lament
A one move boulder problem. Right hand on a good side pull and left in a shallow two finger pocket located right at the end of the crack. Left foot on a bit of a buldge above the tiny cave under the boulder. Slap to the peak above and top out. Set: Richard C | 2m | |||
V3 | Stem Junior
Sit start with left foot on the obvious point under the boulder and right heel in the 'L' shape jug. Left hand begins on slightly awkward crimp with middle and ring finger sitting higher than index finger (May need a bit of feeling around to find it). Right hand on the straight white ledge. Pull off the ground and locking off the left arm, reach for the slopey crimp. Make your way to the hand sized pocket (All the other random pocket holds above are out) and top out over the peak. Set: Richard C | 2m | |||
V3 | Stem Junior 2
Same sit start as the original. From the slopey crimp reach out right to a pinch hold and walk feet over to reach a pocket located around a sloper hold. Top out using anything to the right of the pocket. Set: Richard C | 3m | |||
Middle Cove The Chief's Little Chief Squatting Block | |||||
V4 | ★★★ Red Is The Kill
A powerful problem requiring some body contortions and a committing left hand! Sit start under the corner of the featured wall and the overhang with a left foot up high. Some solid moves up the arete, topping out via the overhang. Resist temptations for a easy hunt - The slaby wall to your right is out of bounds for hand or foot! Set: Ranger Dave Archer, 2013 FA: Ranger Dave Archer, 2013 | 2m | |||
Middle Cove Harold Reid Reserve Middle Cove Crag | |||||
23 | ★★ Grannies From Hell
Start just R of Z. Up, passing three (recently replaced) ring bolts and a long reach. Stay out of the crack! Belay is two somewhat hidden carrots on ledge at chest height. FA: Michael Law, 1988 | 10m, 3 | |||
23 | Cold Chisel
Start: 2m L Unnamable Arete. This route as 2 BRs which are well past their best before date. | 7m | |||
Middle Cove Harold Reid Reserve Brendons Blackboard Is Covered In Chalk | |||||
V3 | ★ Log in Sam's face
Around the next corner from WMRDG is a round, bulgy face. Climb up it, staying towards the centre. FA: dwebster, Oct 2015 | ||||
V4 | ★★ Lovely Lady
Well, not that lovely, but OK. Seated start on the side pulls just left of the crack about 15m right of LSF. Move left and up, finishing leftwards. FA: dwebster, Oct 2015 | ||||
V3 | ★★ Ewas Chock Stone Problem
The right side of the crack. Hands on right only. Nice knee bar! | 2m | |||
V4 | ★ The Ants go Marching 2 by 2
Starting 0.5m left of Spider Stairs, straight up through a series of pockets and holds. | 4m | |||
V3 | ★★ Arachnid Stairs
Start up Spider Stairs till mid height, then finish up Scorpion Stairs. FA: dwebster, Oct 2015 | 5m | |||
V3 | ★★ Spiders and Scorpions
Start up Scorpion Stairs and finish up Spider Stairs. FA: dwebster, Oct 2015 | 5m | |||
V3 | ★★ A Slow Dance At Dusk
A beautiful problem mingling balance, dedication and problem solving Start 3m right of Spider Stairs by semi mantling the chest high ledge up to a delicious side pull. Traverse your way along to the right using gastons, crimpers, side pulls and underclings till all holds above you disappear and you are forced to follow the holds down. Finish by walking off the right most section of the problem after working through two challenging crux's A pleasure at any time of the day! FA: Ranger Dave Archer, 26 Jun 2014 | 5m | |||
V4 | ★ The Ants go marching 1 by 1
In the middle of the blankish face is a fine right leaning line. Mantle the bulgey start then go up the line heading rightish using the crimp. FA: dwebster, Oct 2015 | 5m | |||
V4 | ★ Hurrah, Hurrah
About 3m left of the cave. Up using good holds to stance, then using crimp move up to take slopey edge then top. FA: dwebster, Oct 2015 | 5m | |||
V3 | ★★ Insecticide
Starting 0.5m left of cave. Up the cave's left edge bearing leftwards. FA: dwebster, Oct 2015 | 3m | |||
V3 | ★ Cave Common Start Left
Start in the middle of the cave, up to obvious incut, then move left to groovy holds and over. FA: dwebster, Oct 2015 | 3m | |||
V3 | ★ Cave Common Start Middle
Start in middle of cave. Up to obvious incut then straight over. Holds on left only in for feet. FA: dwebster, Oct 2015 | 3m | |||
Middle Cove Harold Reid Reserve The Eastern Outpost | |||||
V3 | ★ The painful pursuit of pleasure
On the first wall you walk past, about 3m before the first corner. Up on sharp crimps before moving right to good ramp and up. Nice. FA: dwebster, Nov 2015 | 3m | |||
V3 | Dying with the most toys
Start about 2m left of right arete on front face. Up through flakes to top flake and over. Hint: Look right over the lip, and don't fall! FA: dwebster, Nov 2015 | 4m | |||
V3 | Don't do it for glory
Right arete on its right side, moving rightish towards top, but topping out left of the crack. FA: dwebster, Nov 2015 | 4m | |||
V3 | Materialism Vortex
Starting at arete just left of wide crack (good for decent). Roughly follow the crack that goes diagonally left to top, but finish on right side of crack. FA: dwebster, Dec 2015 | 4m | |||
V3 | Satisfied in him
Start at same arete, but go straight up. Stay left of wide corner crack. FA: dwebster, Dec 2015 | 4m | |||
V4 | ★ What does it profit a man?
Grab the rail of LIAS and move straight up the face. Good. FA: dwebster, Nov 2015 | 3m | |||
V3/4 | Somme Sub Maximum Effort
Start on the low rail as for Somme climb, traverse right through the shallow roof of Mini Sub to finish on the obvious iron ore horn on the arête. FA: B van Balen, 17 Oct 2021 | 5m | |||
23 | Le Bonne Damme Olivia
Middle route on final poxy face. Jump to pod, then up, right to rest, and rightwards at final bolt. Hard crux sequence if you're short! FA: dwebster, Feb 2016 | 6m | |||
Castle Cove Castle Cove crag | |||||
23 | ★★ Aria the Natural
Extension of Aria and probably the best route at the crag. Start as for Aria, clip third bolt with a long draw. Move right then up flake and slopers to double RB lower off. Five bolts in total, 4 of which are BR's. FA: Darley & Hanley, 2014 | 11m, 5 | |||
West Roseville Graffiti Wall | |||||
V2/3 | ★ Graffiti Wall Warm Up 1
Stand start in break left of the runnel. Head up and left to top out. | 5m |