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The Big Pump

  • Grade context: AU
  • Approach time: 8 mins
  • Photos: 3
  • Ascents: 260

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Summary

This area consists of overhangs and ceilings. An amazing area for any level of boulder. Stays perfectly dry in the wet.

Description

An overhanging cave with a fine red dust that sticks to everything. Has a high grunge factor. It used to be a favourite training ground in the 80's for developing endurance. The traverse from left to right - The Big Pump - is around 28.

Only a few of the main problems are shown and there are zillion variants.

Excellent in summer and also in wet weather. For some obscure reason it doesn't tend to suffer from seepage after rain

Access issues

Keep in mind, if you crossed the river to get to the crag and it's raining remember the water levels could rise over the several hours you're bouldering there. This could result in an alternate exit route being devised.

Approach

From the corner of Blaxland Rd and Terrace Rd Killara walk through Allen Park and follow the track down to the creek. Take care crossing the creek and immediately follow the shore line to your right. The first cave you get to is the Lower Cave with some ceiling problems to master.

From the Lower Cave you can see the main attraction if you look up and to your right. Walk and scramble up to it.

Be prepared for two things...red dust and The Big Pump.

Ethic inherited from North Shore

Respecting the enviroment and keeping crags clean will maintain a healthy and important relationship between the climbing community, local councils and National Parks. Carry out what you take in and enjoy what the North Shore has to offer.

If you come across an area that is being developed or you think could be under development, please show all due respect to the developers and do not climb the projects listed on thecrag.com.

History

View historical timeline

Steve Knight discovered this in the early 80's. Geoff Weigand used to train here with a weight belt which is how he probably destroyed his elbows.

Tags

Routes

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Grade Route

Traverse upside down through the roof above the ledge.

From the back of the cave follow the slots out through the roof.

Start on the jug/slot on the right, head up then traverse left to join the V3.

Starts right at the slot/jugs, head up and left (above Dragon's Den) to join the V3.

FA: Mike Forward, 11 Dec 2016

A pumpy number that climbs like one long boulder problem. Thought provoking moves up the face followed by generous holds through the roof. RBs the whole way.

Start below the beginning of Mummy Dust and dyno your way up to a good jug near the first manky bolt. The arete and big break are off, as is matching hands.

Long moves on jugs! Start on the big break a bit right of the arete / start of 'Mummy Dust' and dyno up to the next chalked jug. Continue up to same finishing hold for '2'. Good one to get the juices flowing.

Grade aligned with other routes here, might be V2?

FA: Unknown

Set by Phillip Booth

Start as for Mummy Dust but go high to the start of The High Traverse.

The classic training problem. Usually done left to right. If you don't rest in the little cave it is apparently equivalent to a 28.

FA: Geoff Weigand

A series of desperate iron crosses that links into Mummy Dust.

Up via the big undercling hole.

Layaway to layaway to jug.

A powerful and desperate crag classic. Start matched on the bottom sloper rail and power up the slopey ramp, paat an edge, to the finish jug up high (on 'The High Traverse').

Yet another dyno.

Traverse left and up out of the cave. Heel hooking is off.

Another easy warm-up for the cave. Start as for '8' on the right side of the cave then go up and traverse right on the high chalked holds (reversing the high traverse). Match on the last high hold above the start of '7' to finish.

FA: Unknown

Set by Phillip Booth, 2020

Traverse right out of the cave.

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Activity

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