A Crag Guide gives an extensive view of all sub areas and climbs at a point in the index. It shows a snapshot of the index heirachy, up to 300 climbs (or areas) on a single web page. It shows selected comments climbers have made on a recently submitted ascent.
At a minor crag level this should be suitable for printing and taking with you on a climbing trip as an adjunct to your guidebook.
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Warning
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Contributors
Thanks to the following people who have contributed to this crag guide:
liam Richard Pattison adrian foxcroft Graham Dowden Tim Clarkson Ranger Dave Brendan Heywood Woody Campbell Gome Demetrius
The size of a person's name reflects their Crag Karma, which is their level of contribution. You can help contribute to your local crag by adding descriptions, photos, topos and more.
Table of contents
- 1.
Tunks Park
36 in Crag
-
1.1.
Secret Garden 9 in Boulder
- 1.1.1. The Far Side 3 in Boulder
- 1.1.2. The Avenue Boulders 6 in Boulder
- 1.1.3. Path Side 0 in Boulder
- 1.2. Boat Ramp 3 in Boulder
- 1.3. Hobo's Haunt 3 in Boulder
- 1.4. Green door 2 in Boulder
- 1.5. The Long Wall 14 in Boulder
- 1.6. Changing Rooms 1 in Boulder
- 1.7. By the pipe 4 in Boulder
-
1.1.
Secret Garden 9 in Boulder
- 2. Index by grade
1. Tunks Park 36 routes in Crag
- Summary:
-
Mostly Bouldering
Lat / Long: -33.816891, 151.216563
description
A beautiful part of Sydney. Bouldering is not epic but it is worth an afternoon, with some easy stuff if you are starting out, plus a few harder problems.
access issues
If you have benefited from climbing infrastructure in NSW, please consider making a donation towards maintenance costs. The Sydney Rockclimbing Club Rebolting Fund finances the replacement of old bolts on existing climbs and the maintenance of other hardware such as fixed ropes and anchors. The SRC purchases hardware, such as bolts and glue, and distributes them to volunteer rebolters across the state of New South Wales. For more information, including donation details, visit https://sydneyrockies.org.au/rebolting/
approach
Park at the Tunks Park oval on Brothers Ave. There is climbing near the boat ramp, near the green door on the opposite crag and on both sides of the oval.
ethic
Respecting the enviroment and keeping crags clean will maintain a healthy and important relationship between the climbing community, local councils and National Parks. Carry out what you take in and enjoy what the North Shore has to offer.
If you come across an area that is being developed or you think could be under development, please show all due respect to the developers and do not climb the projects listed on thecrag.com.
history
Has been previously described here, so FA probably already done http://routes.sydneyrockies.org.au/confluence/display/nswrock/Tunks+Park Chips evident in shady side near pipe.
1.1. Secret Garden 9 routes in Boulder
- Summary:
-
All Bouldering
Lat / Long: -33.816010, 151.217527
description
Some cool boulders hidden between lower and upper cliff avenue, loads of potential, and no yuppies judging you wile you climb.
approach
Park at the end off upper cliff avenue and take the track going down the hill, should only take 1min
1.1.1. The Far Side 3 routes in Boulder
- Summary:
-
Lat / Long: -33.815995, 151.217233
description
the west side of the cliff line
approach
walk past the cave about 40mters
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Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
★ the secret garden
this is what this crag is about. fun cool moves and no one jugging you as they walk past. sit start cool moves to the top. | V1 | 2m | |||||
2 | 1 | V2 | ||||||
3 | 2 | V0 |
1.1.2. The Avenue Boulders 6 routes in Boulder
- Summary:
-
Lat / Long: -33.816010, 151.217494
approach
when you walk down the path you will see a cave on your right and a big boulder 1mt past it.
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
GF
sit start then up the arete | V0 | ||||||
2 |
★★ Small arete Knob
Sit start then up and over the knob there is a pocket top right over the lip | V2 | 1m | |||||
3 |
sloper slap pocket
Sit start,left hand on the diagonal sloper right hand in the flared crack. then slap your way up to the pocket at the top. | V2 | 2m | |||||
4 |
L.H.C
sit start use the crack on the left and horizontal crack on right | V1 | 2m | |||||
5 |
★ Stand up for the sloper
a fun one move wonder. sit start hands in the crack make a big move to the top then over it | V1 | ||||||
6 |
★ the bigger arete
sit start the straight up it. | V1 | 3m | |||||
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1.1.3. Path Side 0 routes in Boulder
description
anything you can see from the path.
1.2. Boat Ramp 3 routes in Boulder
- Summary:
-
All Trad climbing
Lat / Long: -33.817390, 151.219549
description
Some sketchy climbs over by the boat ramp
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Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
Parked by a Punk in Tunk
Vegetated slab | 9m | ||||||
2 |
Milk Drunk in Tunk
Run-out with just a couple of horizontal breaks for poor cam placements. More of a high-ball boulder. Climb to the left of the tree half-way, then some unnerving dusty moves to top-out. | 8 R | 9m | |||||
3 |
Some Tunk Funk
Delicate feet on small edges to reach the 2 horizontal breaks half-way, the upper break has good cam placements. Then the crux, small sloping handholds to get above the breaks and access the final slab. | 20 R | 9m |
1.3. Hobo's Haunt 3 routes in Boulder
- Summary:
-
All Bouldering
Lat / Long: -33.818678, 151.219131
description
A small overhang and adjacent boulders and short walls left of Green Door giving a few fun problems.
approach
At the car park face the water and walk to the right following its edge. Once you enter the bush land there follow the track till you reach the overhang
history
The developer may or may not have spent a few homeless night's under the overhang...
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
★ Homeward Bound
Up just right of the arete | V0 | 3m | |||||
2 |
★ Homeless Boy
Up the blunt arete | V1 | 3m | |||||
3 |
★ Where the Heart Is
Start 5m right of Homeward Bound. Up slab. | V1 | 3m | |||||
|
1.4. Green door 2 routes in Boulder
- Summary:
-
All Bouldering
Lat / Long: -33.818355, 151.218847
description
Some airy problems by the green door opposite the boat ramp
|
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Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
Loaning the Lintel
Traverse across the top of the green door with your feet on the lintel (the stone above the door frame), and hands on the upper crumbly horizontal break. | V0 | 4m | |||||
2 |
Living above the Lintel line
Up at the right end of wall using an underling and arete slap to get your feet on the highest horizontal break, then a very easy high traverse across the green door | V0 | 4m |
1.5. The Long Wall 14 routes in Boulder
- Summary:
-
All Bouldering
Lat / Long: -33.818161, 151.217459
description
Some easy transversing and short problems along the oval
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Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
★★ The Long and Winding Road
Lots of easy bits if you start further right. V1-ish if you start traversing from far left dark section of slab, roughly 15m left of Up The Side. I'll put my name on it, but I'm sure I'm not the first... FA: Tim Clarkson, 27 Sep 2021 | V1 | 15m | |||||
2 |
★ Up the side
On the left of the arete. A few crimps and a sloper up the top to finish | V1 | 2m | |||||
3 |
yuppie+puppie
Start hands matched in the right poket right side of the arete traverse left around left then up the left side. FA: 2013 | V1 | 2m | |||||
4 |
★ Slide on
A low trasverse. Big holds at the start. | FB_ALT:2 | 2m | |||||
5 |
Up the hole
Start low and go up the arete. Dyno from the low to the hole if you are keen. | V1 | 2m | |||||
|
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Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
6 |
Guiliana Family First
Start next crack to the right of UTH. Traverve right, feet generally low until And Out The Other Side. Extension next few metres possible at around V4. Some moves very easy, some a little technical. FA: Tim Clarkson, 27 Sep 2021 | V1 | 15m | |||||
7 |
★ High-Stepping, Gumby Style
Start: 1m left of orange scoop. Step up straight into the undercling hole, then finish via high-step into crimp and slopy mantle. | V1 | 3m | |||||
8 | Kid's Zig-Zag | VB | 3m | |||||
9 |
★★ Crack & Tree
Up finger crack, avoiding wall | V0 | 4m | |||||
10 |
Twixt
Right hand in scoop, up via crimp avoiding crack and hole. | V1 | 3m | |||||
11 | ★ Through the hole | V0 | 4m | |||||
12 |
★ And Out the Other Side
Start: 1m right 'Through the hole'. Left facing flake then slopy mantle topout. | V1 | 3m | |||||
13 |
Open Project - Guiliana Family First extension
Contintue GFF by traversing right from AOTOS into Karate Kick (or a problem in its own right). Thin, slopey crimps and tricky feet. Probably easier if you're tall and can do the splits. Estimate V4. Rock quality pretty good. Set: Tim Clarkson, 27 Sep 2021 | 4m | ||||||
14 |
★ Karate Kick
Stand start, next crack to the right of AOTOS, and 2m left of man-made gutter assemblage. Step onto low footer, and karate kick opposite side of the crack, then stretch high for good crimps, then straight up to top out. You might not be able to do "The Boulder Problem", but you can karate kick on this instead. FA: 27 Sep 2021 | V2 | 4m |
1.6. Changing Rooms 1 route in Boulder
- Summary:
-
All Bouldering
Lat / Long: -33.817525, 151.216136
description
A short wall between the Changing Rooms and the set of stairs leading up to The Boulevarde
approach
Between the changing rooms and the viaduct on the south side of the oval.
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Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
★ The Stair by the chair
Left side of the slab, up easy angle with good holds | V0 | 4m |
1.7. By the pipe 4 routes in Boulder
- Summary:
-
All Bouldering
Lat / Long: -33.816855, 151.216648
description
This area is probably the best bouldering in the area. It has a classy transverse and a great problem up an slight overhang.
history
Chips near the edge of the roof reveal past activity.
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Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
Under Tranverse
Tranverse right to left and then up | FB_ALT:3 | ||||||
2 | ★ Mini ladder | V1 | 3m | |||||
3 |
Seal Rock
One move plus a crazy mantle (hence the name). FA: Brendan Greene, 2014 | V1 | 3m | |||||
4 |
★ Grind
Up the corner. Good. | FB_ALT:4 |