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Description

Currently, there are three bolted slabby routes well worth the effort to get there. The crag faces south east and gets a little sun in the mornings.

Approach

2.6klm from gate at the end of Quarry Road, the campground is officially ‘Tunks Ridge Rest Area’ and is part of the Great North Walk. The trail is mostly flat’ish until Tunks Ridge turnoff (marked with sandstone blocks on the left) after which it’s downhill with a steep section being concreted. As of December 2016, an 800 metre section, starting about 400m past the clearing access for Top and Lower Tiers and finishing about 100m up the hill from the campground, prohibits access from the Quarry Rd end. Alternative access is now either via a foot track and fire trail from Galston Gorge (1.9klm of which the first 500m is pretty steep) or a rideable 3.7klm fire trail from Stewart Ave, Hornsby with big hills each way.

From the bottom of the concrete at the Quarry Rd end of the campground, continue for about 40m and turn right following the arching branch of the big pink gum tree into long grass and bush towards cliff line 30m ahead. When you get to the edge and look out, you’re somewhere above Vermillionaire slab with the distinctive Galston High buttress about 20m to its left.

Descent notes

Walk around to your left (north) and access the gully down, following near the base of the cliff around to your right until you see the right wall of Galston High buttress. Keep an eye out for the odd leach after wetter periods. Descriptions are left to right looking at the crag.

History

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Found in 2013. Thanks to Niall Doherty for showing the bolting virgins which way to point the drill when we were finally ready to do something about it. Scott found a bolt plate at the base of GH during an early top rope ascent. Possibly the same person guy who put the bolt in at the Big Wall Environs?

Routes

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Grade Route

Around the corner left of Duck Season. Follow the sickle shaped crack up to the slab. Pillar and crack to belay. Pitch two traverses left and up the corner to belay off the tree. Take cams up to a bd 5. Fairly commiting climbing on solid gear. Oh and it’s super dirty.

FFA: Richard Stubbs & Jara Johnston-Anderson, 11 Jan

8 Rings. 3m left of V. Start on the pointy rock and up delicately to cave. Back on to face and up to top. Mantle up to ledge with DRBB. P Collins, C Perry, S McManus, N Doherty 2017

FA: Chris Perry, 2013

Set by Chris Perry, Paul Collins, Scott McManus & Niall Doherty, 2017

FFA: Paul Collins, 2017

Starts right side of red slab. The crux is up high at the blank section, then reach left for jug, clip, and up to join last two rings of DS. Step left to DS if you can’t do the crux.

Set by Chris Perry, Paul Collins, Scottt McManus & Niall Doherty

FA: Chris Perry, 2013

FFA: Scott McManus, 2017

Follow the crack left of Galston High to belay off the tree. Good gear the whole way on solid rock. Worth taking a couple of bd 4’s.

FFA: Jara Johnston-Anderson & Richard Stubbs, 11 Jan

20m right of V. Start up the nose of distinctive red Galson High buttress on sensual edges. Move around to the right face with feet on ramp. Straight up and thrutch or climb between nose and wall. Onto nose and up slab to DRBB. Best to rap down same way to avoid sharp edge on the outside edge of the nose.

FA: Chris Perry, 2013

Set by Chris Perry, Paul Collins, Scott McManus & Niall Doherty, 2017

FFA: Chris Perry, 2017

Activity

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