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The Caves

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Description

The Caves was discovered on a misguided adventure to find the Frontline. There are about 20 individual problems ranging from V0 to V11. The problems here are in general more steep and pumpy than any of the other areas.

'The Caves' are east facing so while the sun makes it in the morning, rain never does. The rock is surprisingly clean and solid for Sydney sandstone and the holds are very skin friendly.

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Access issues inherited from New South Wales and ACT

If you have benefited from climbing infrastructure in NSW, please consider making a donation towards maintenance costs. The Sydney Rockclimbing Club Rebolting Fund finances the replacement of old bolts on existing climbs and the maintenance of other hardware such as fixed ropes and anchors. The SRC purchases hardware, such as bolts and glue, and distributes them to volunteer rebolters across the state of New South Wales. For more information, including donation details, visit https://sydneyrockies.org.au/rebolting/

Approach

Referring to the location map park in the Ted Horwood Reserve car park just off Renown Rd. Walk out the eastern end through the gate and down the gravel road inbetween the soccer ovals. If it's the weekend, wave to all the little soccer lads giving you strange looks with your "portable bed" on your back and buy a bag of 50c mixed lollies from the canteen. At the end of the ovals, where there is an electrical box on a stand, scramble down the little bank to safety from the prying eyes. Follow this wandering track for about 100m and you'll come right out on top of the Trenches. Make your way into the Trenches then head north for about 20m and you'll find several caves. This is it.

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Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Routes

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Grade Route

Easy up the short buggy slab to the left of the big two trees on the way to the caves

Slightly right of Fizzle, left of the bush up the slab.

Big pocket to the big jug just beside the large tree with a pretty bad landing.

Don't use the painful mono, and this is a powerful, committing and good problem.

Sit start to reader's wives, begin with both hands on the lower section of the boulder either on the jugs or use the small pockets before making a big move up to the starting hold of reader's wives. Top as per reader's wives.

Chris Beers

FFA: Chris

Sit start to Reader's wives var

FFA: Chris

From the jug at the far left corner of the cave move technically up to the slopey ramp and over.

Same as Fat Women but start all the way back at Y2k

Long pumpy roof climbing... and the crux is at the end. From way back in the cave come all the way out to finish leftwards up the slopey ramp. A classic of the genre.

FA: Rob Saunders

Same as Y2K but finish right of the slopey ramp. Not as good, but still very pumpy and fun.

FA: Rob Saunders

Keep going as per Bring it on but finish above the huge thread holds. (The big foot ledge is out)

FA: Rob Saunders

The massive super classic traverse. Start from the common point in the cave. Traverse all the way to the right end. Foot ledge rail is out as per all other problems.

Start: Sit

Marcus Lim

FA: Ben Ryan/Rob Saunders?

Follow the big holds straight up. Low start & Bad Landing

FA: Rob Saunders

Low start then up the black streak. Bad Landing

FA: Rob Saunders

Up just right of the foot ledge to the break, then back left to finish up Crank v3.0

Out the roof to a lovely rounded mantle.

Start: Sit

FA: Tim O'Neill

From the back of the sandy cave to a difficult move and top out the right end.

Start: Sit

Cool moves out the roof to a pocket and just match on the rounded top. DON'T be stupid and top out like Tim or you will understand how this problem got its name!!!!

Start: Sit

FA: Tim O'Neill

Up the sandy prow.

Up face to an easy top.

FA: Tim O'Neill

Start up A9 and traverse the whole cave topping out up A5.

Traverse out under the lip and mantle onto the top where you can.

Start: Sit

FA: Dave Kellermann

Sit start on the tufa feature, powerful moves through roof finishing up the series of blunt pinches and edges in the centre of the headwall. Resist climbing out to better holds on the left. Named after James' cat.

Travis Bettison

FA: James Scarborough, 2002

Stand start to Mr Winston. Both hands start on the block, then throw a high left foot behind you onto the scoop, and engage in flexible trickery to get your right foot off the ground. The ledge out right is off as for all problems. Finish up the Y2K exit.

FA: Peter Jeavons, 11 Aug 2018

Mr Winston variant. from the lowest part of the head wall head up on tiny crimps.

Top is currently overgrown

Travis B

FA: Aaron Liu, 2002

The more common exit of Arcane Power before the truth was rediscovered. Finish up through the big pocket.

Peter Jeavons

Stand start to Arcane Power. Same start as Witchcraft finishing up the Arcane Power Variant exit. Requires real magic.

FA: Peter Jeavons, 31 Oct 2017

Starting on the right end of the rail, a large move to a pocket and gymnastic moves join the start of Y2k Cont, moving back to finish up Mr Winston.

The first ascent started with feet out right as more of an independent start but has been repeated by starting at the far left rail and feet on starting jugs of Bring It On at V9

FA: Patrick Reynolds, 7 May 2019

Climb Siotaro Wish Flower into Arcane Power.

FA: Patrick Reynolds, 13 May 2019

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Activity

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