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Approach

To find the crag, it's easiest to start at the Sport and Recreation Centre on the Wakehurst Parkway. From here, drive about 900m west (past a wide pull-of on the right at 500m, a locked gate on the right 200m further on, which is the access for Narrabeen Slabs, then 150m further until you reach the first left hand curve. Park in the small gravel area to the left, located just before a right curve road sign and an 80kmh speed sign. If the carpark is full, you can also park 150m to the east, in the same carpark as for the Narrabeen Slabs. From the western end of the gravel area an obvious single track heads around the fence and up the hill for about 50m to the crag. Climbs are described left to right, facing the cliff.

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Routes

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Grade Route

Start 2m L of Blogg's Eliminate, straight up to clip last bolt of Jeff's Easy Sandbag.

FA: Michael Law, 2018

STart as for Bloggs Eliminate and step left after start.

FA: Jeffrey Crass, 2018

Start 28m left of the track. Through bulge and up, originally done solo with a long-gone tree for aid but now clipping bolts through the bulge

FA: Michael Law, 1982

FFA: Jeffrey Crass, 2018

Corners.

Start: 10 right of previous or 18m left of track.

21, every move! Wall left of PL/LD. Either bridge up corner to break, or desperate boulder start on pockets.

FA: Jeffrey Crass, 2018

Set by Jeffrey Crass, 2018

Good looking face but looks harder than 22. Start: 2m L of Flack and stay right (following bolt direction). Glued in carrots. Shared lower off with Flack.

Nice warm up, 3 U's and a lower-off

Start: 8m right again or 10m left of track. Initialled.

FA: Mikl Law, 1985

A nice little finger/hand crack running up, near the corner next to F, up to ledge then over roof to top out.

FA: Chris, 2 Feb 2015

Start: Obvious crack when coming up the track. usually wet.

Flakes.

Start: 2m right.

Start: 5m right again. Has bolts!

Start: 15m right of the track. Diagonally left to arete.

Start: As for Apyla but straight up (rebolted 2018).

Start: Corner!

Start: as for KK but right and up wall past bolts.

Exposed roof swinging on good jugs. Start in orange rock 15m R of Areeba. Right side of cave and traverse L along lip. Easiest to lean right and set up lower off from rings on top of right-hand route (Jeff's Wall)

FA: Michael Law, 2018

Fun wall, start as for Airtime Traverse and straight up

FA: Jeffrey Crass, 2018

Straight up over bulge and up seam.

Start: 1m left of Jammin' Measles

FA: Daniel Webster & Dale Tweedie

The obvious crack. Traverse in from the left to get to the start.

Step right and up through scoop and wall to double U bolt rap anchor. Fixed sling and 3RBs en route (take care clipping the 3rd RB).

Start: As for JM.

FA: Dale Tweedie & Daniel Webster

A funky crux, all U bolts now

Start: 15m right of JM.

FA: Mikl Law, 1985

Punchy! Steep iron cross move left followed by big cranks, original start hold has exploded so either big dyno or start to the right. Follow bolts to anchor (rebolted 2018). 3rd bolt is in a scoop and biners sit funny, I double clipped it.

FA: Craig Martin, 1984

As for Technorabble, but avoids the crux by moving right, you can clip the 4th bolt from the jugs, then up and traverse L to 5th bolt and up.

Start: Corner.

Classic pocket pulling, all U's

Start: Smooth black wall 2m right of the corner. Bolts.

FA: Mikl Law, 1985

Start: To the right and below Big Tick. Up, R and up wall.

FA: Mikl

Up and right, right to arete and up. Start: As for Image Intensifier. 3 extra bolts now!

FA: Mikl

Start: 4m right of Slap and Tickle. Extra bolts!

FA: Mikl

Start: Right of Pickaxe. Extra bolt!

FA: Mikl

Big roof. Start: Original (easier!) route went up corner (clip first 2 rings of Closeau's Edge) then left to big jug, clip carrot and leap left into roof. New direct start: go up Relax to ledge then right and up to join Original roof, harder All Ubolts now. Wild finish.

FA: Craig Martin, 1986

Start: Corner/Crack.

Wall right of Relax etc. Start in corner and out right, hard rock-over. lean left to clip anchors.

FA: Jeff Crass, 2018

Mmmn!

Up ladder then left through roof and up red wall past huge eye bolts (Galv 12 mm Petzl Collinex?). Lower-off on slab!

FA: Giles Bradbury

One of the best routes in Sydney!Are you ready to get your tilt on? New bolts (1994). Start, up log (as for SSS) then rightwards (put sling through 2nd bolt to avoid leverage on biner) and through roof

FA: Michael Law, 1985

climb blankness R of Tilt. Clip Ubolt on ledge before lurching out into space. Rebolted 2018.

FA: Michael Law, 1988

Do this!

Start: 3m right of Tilt.

FA: Michael Law, 1985

Start in big jug under lip as for Full Tilt then right past slots

FA: Leonard Coyne, 1989

Start: As for W&TS then right into SP.

The direct start to "Septic Penguins"

FA: J Crass, 1988

Start Up Septic Penguins and head diagonally left into Full Tilt.

Start: Right end of the cliff, left of crack. Obvious. Either rap from anchor at the back of the ledge, lower from base of Arete on R (Hectic Penguins).

FA: Mikl, 1983

Arete above septic penguins.Funky and bouldery.

FA: Michael Law, 2018

Cool crack on polished rock. Start 1m R of Septic Penguins, up thin crack to ledge and left to rap anchor. There's a 24 roof sitdown boulder problem through the roof also.

FA: Mikl, 1978

Start: Start up Crack Man Fever, step right and up next crack (bolt in easy chossy bit) to a hard finish.

FA: moss, 1990

Orange wall above 15m up and right of Septic Penguins. Boulder start and through roof to hard finish, slap right to anchor. Rebolted 2018

FA: Michael Law, 1985

Seam 5m Right of Pat the Pig. Maybe 21 if you don't jamb the first move.

FA: Michael Law, 2018

Activity

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