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Description

Two large and prominent stand-alone boulders on the sand in the middle of Palm Beach with some good problems on them, and some more shaded bouldering at the far north end of the beach.

Excellent for a day of bouldering and a swimming.

Storm Update: Although previously one could rely on the sand as a bit of a crash pad for the boulders in the middle of Palm Beach, now a boulder pad is needed as most problems are currently highballs due to the washed away sand. There's also rock showing in some places under the boulders.

The numbered alternate names for problems are from Peter Balint's "Sydney Bouldering" Guide from 2001 (http://www.australianbouldering.com/guides/sydney/sydney_guide)

Approach

<5 min

For the boulders in the middle of Palm Beach, continue on Barrenjoey road around the to the ocean side of the peninsula and drive south along the beach until you see the two large boulders. Pull up right next to them.

For the North Pam Beach Boulders, park at the lighthouse carpark and walk up to the north end of the beach on the ocean side.

Routes

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Grade Route

The Overhang Boulder Back to contents

The overhanging or Southern boulder.

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V0 ★ The Hole Boulder 3m

Shimmy and squeeze up through the hole in the southern boulder. Best to dare your mate to do it and then watch and laugh.

Start: East face of southern boulder.

V0- - 22 ★ 1 Boulder

Easy Slabs

V1/2 ★★ 2 Boulder

Traverse along the high break and then come back along the low underclings for a fun circuit

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V3 The Box Boulder 5m

Up the white overhang, follow the slopers to the next set of pockets on the right, then come back down and back to the crimps. Rinse and repeat.

V1 ★ The White Overhang / #3 Boulder 3m

East side of the South Boulder.

Some nice pockets on the white streak. Straight up

V2/3 ★ 4 Boulder

Start up 'The White Overhang' and traverse along the pockets rightwards staying below the break.

V1/2 ★ 5 Boulder

The broad white streak, powerful climbing and a committing top.

V4/5 Marathon Man Boulder 8m

Start on the small crimps and the ear, move up into the underclings in the roof. Head right along the lip and into the juggy arete. Then round the corner and into the overhang traverse to a sit finish on the grass.

FA:

V0 - 1 ★ The Juggy Arete / #6 Boulder 3m

Style up the insanely juggy arete. Heaps of fun! Yes, the rock is solid.

Start: North-east arete of south boulder

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V2/3 ★★ The Overhang Traverse / #7 Boulder 6m

Classic line. Traverse the lip of the overhang on the north side of the southern boulder. Sit start on the sand on the left, sit finish (!) on the grass up on the right. Plenty of jugs, do it any way you want. V3 without using feet on the wall.

V0- - 44 ★ 8 Boulder

A narrow hard line above the big pocket on the lip.

V2 ★★ the crimp rotator Boulder 2m

Traverse the break from the middle of the north face of the south boulder. Up via the crimps to the undercling. Left to the lip and back down to the crimps. Rinse and repeat.

The next three problems all start off the low jugs in the roof left of the arete.

V1 ★ Gunman on the Grassy Knoll / #9 Boulder 3m

The north face of the south boulder. A sit start on the jugs in the roof and up using the big hole.

V1 - 5 ★★ 10 Boulder

From the jugs in the roof, move up to the arete and awkwardly up its left hand side.

V4 - 6 ★★ 11 Boulder

From the jugs, move right through the low roof and powerfully, slappily and technically up the other side of the arete.

V0 - 2 ★★ East Side Traverse 1 / #12 Boulder 5m

Climb up the juggy arete (n/e corner) then traverse left along the horizontal break across to the ladder and climb back down.

V3 ★★ East side North side link up Traverse 11m

Start at the ladder at the South/East end of the South boulder. Go up to the break traverse along the break to the North East Corner. Go round the corner into the overhang traverse. It's probably been done before, but I've listed it as it's a good link up.

Set by Ziggy Samways

FA: 14 Nov 2015

V3 ★★★ The West Side Traverse 2 / #13 Boulder 8m

Traverse the drill holes staying below the break starting from the north end. Fun and Pumpy

The Straight and Slab Boulder Back to contents

★★ Traverse of E Face Boulder

From down-climb traverse left staying about 0.5m below top, finish on pedestal of problem 20

V3 ★★★ The Crack / #22 Boulder 4m

Merge with the Crack

V7 Crimp City / #21 Boulder 4m

Crimp your way up, high and committing, the crack on the left is a no go.

The Southern face of the North Boulder

V1 ★ Mr. Mantle / #20 Boulder 4m

South West edge of the Northern Boulder

Sit start on the southern edge. Mantle the Ledge and then up!

V1 ★ The Ledge / #19 Boulder 4m

Get yourself onto that Ledge and then commit to the right side of the blunt arete.

North Boulder; West side of the South Western arete.

V3 ★ 18 Boulder

A tricky slab right of the arete.

V2 ★ 17 Boulder

Go straight up from the letterbox.

V1 ★ 16 Boulder 4m

East side of the North Boulder.

Start at the letterbox slot and move up and right to the crack

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V0 - 1 ★ The Flake / #15 Boulder 4m

Up to the flake and layback which makes up the left side of the window.

Start: Left side of east face of north boulder

V8 ★★★ I Just Wanna Go Swimming! / #14 Boulder

Desperate and technical slab/wall bouldering. Climb up through the window without using the big features on either side. Middle of the Eastern wall on the North Boulder

V4 ★ The Problem Of Palm Beach / #13 Boulder 4m

Up using the thin seam at the right side of the window which turns left up the top.

Start: Middle of the east face of the north boulder

V3 ★★ 12 Boulder

Up the ironstone edges above 'T.M.'

V4 Don't Know / #11? Boulder 5m

The crimps to the right of the seam

V1 ★ The Open Seam / #10 Boulder 4m

East side of the North Boulder.

Up the open seam

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V1 ★★ Low Traverse Boulder 3m

Sit start low down at the north end of the north boulder, traverse the low crack to just below the flake problem. The difficulty depends on how much sand is here. When the sand is high this is harder as all the footers are gone and you will be bunched.

V0 9 Boulder

Up via a couple of big breaks just left of the blunt arete.

V0 ★ The Easy Slab / #8 Boulder 4m

Easiest way to climb the north boulder via slabby ledges and some letterbox slots.

Start: On the blunt arete on the North-east face.

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V2 ★★ North Side Rising Traverse Boulder 4m

Sit start low down on the north side, north boulder. Rising traverse to top right corner of the north west corner.

V0 ★ Daisy's Traverse Boulder 3m

Start at the corner on the north east side of the north boulder and traverse round to the west side.

V1 ★★ Lefty Loosey / #7 Boulder 4m

The Left of the North Face, Just right of the Arete. Straight up, good fun!

V0+ ★ The North Face / #6 Boulder 4m

Fun crimpy face on ironstone edges.

Start: North face of the north boulder

V1 ★ Righty Tighty / #5 Boulder 4m

The very right of the North face. Undercling to start and up the crimps!

V2 ★ The North Arete / #4 Boulder 4m

Starting on the western side using the jugs. Then work your way up using the arete

V4 ★★ 4a Boulder

R side of the arete via a long reach

V3 ★★ 3 Boulder 3m

A big move off the jug to the top. West side of the North Boulder

V2 ★★ Rising Traverse / #2 Boulder 2m

1m right of the jug, up diagonally finishing at the top of 'The Way Out'. Great Problem.

V2 ★ The Way Out / #1 Boulder 3m

On the western side of the North boulder close to the bench, start low by the dumb white arrow. Hard move into a side pull

V3 ★★ Holy Moly Boulder 3m

Starts with good footholds, fun begins right after the undercling. Then goes to some crimpy vertical moves until the committing end. Really good route!

V4 ★★ Just Don't Care Boulder 3m

Start matched on the jug, feet wherever, and launch up throwing both hands in the air like you just don't care catching on each side of the small horn in break. Top out however you like

FA: Stephen Rawls, 23 Sep 2017

The Crocodile Back to contents

The low and flat boulder that looks (a bit) like a crocodiles head. As oppose to a turtles head, which is different.

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V4 Never Smile At A Crocodile Boulder 1m

Sit start at the north end of the boulder, traverse the lip to the south end and match on the 'high' jug.

FA: Ziggy Samways, 29 Oct

North Palm Beach Boulders Back to contents

Bouldering at the northern-most point of Palm Beach with a good variety of boulders that are mostly in the shade. The climbs are located on the boulders between the beach and the huge split block visible from the beach