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Palm Beach Boulders All Bouldering 66 routes in crag

  • Grade context: AU
  • Approach time: 1 sec - 5 min
  • Photos: 14
  • Ascents: 1,389
67
BLDV
V0-V0V0+V1V2V3V4V5V7

Seasonality

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Description

Two large and prominent stand-alone boulders on the sand in the middle of Palm Beach with some good problems on them, and some more shaded bouldering at the far north end of the beach.

Excellent for a day of bouldering and a swimming.

Storm Update: Although previously one could rely on the sand as a bit of a crash pad for the boulders in the middle of Palm Beach, now a boulder pad is needed as most problems are currently highballs due to the washed away sand. There's also rock showing in some places under the boulders.

The numbered alternate names for problems are from Peter Balint's "Sydney Bouldering" Guide from 2001 (http://www.australianbouldering.com/guides/sydney/sydney_guide)

© (sm)

Access issues inherited from New South Wales and ACT

If you have benefited from climbing infrastructure in NSW, please consider making a donation towards maintenance costs. The Sydney Rockclimbing Club Rebolting Fund finances the replacement of old bolts on existing climbs and the maintenance of other hardware such as fixed ropes and anchors. The SRC purchases hardware, such as bolts and glue, and distributes them to volunteer rebolters across the state of New South Wales. For more information, including donation details, visit https://sydneyrockies.org.au/rebolting/

Approach

For the boulders in the middle of Palm Beach, continue on Barrenjoey road around the to the ocean side of the peninsula and drive south along the beach until you see the two large boulders. Pull up right next to them.

For the North Pam Beach Boulders, park at the lighthouse carpark and walk up to the north end of the beach on the ocean side.

© (sm)

Tags

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Contents

Routes

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1
V2 ★★★ short man dyno Boulder 3m

this climb is on the road side of north boulder. As opposed to reaching straight to the top slab, cross right hand into top crimp of jug section, then left hand reaches to the small crimp to the left. Re position feet and dyno to the top slab

FA: Zeke Whitfeld & Louis Valente

2
V2 juicy dyno directe Boulder 3m

large section with jugs and start feet as low as possible. Dyno straight from here to the juicy slab above and easy top out

FA: zeke whitfeld & Louis Valente

road side of north boulder Back to contents

The Overhang Boulder Back to contents

The overhanging or Southern boulder.

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3
V1 Chosstity belt Boulder 1m

North side of the north boulder. Sit start and pull up round the roof using the side pull.

FA: Ziggy Samways

4
V2 ★★ Challenge Anneka Boulder 1m

Same as 'Chosstity belt' but use the crimp on the face and stay off the side pulls.

FA: Ziggy Samways

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5
V0 ★ The Hole Boulder 3m

Shimmy and squeeze up through the hole in the southern boulder. Best to dare your mate to do it and then watch and laugh.

Start: East face of southern boulder.

6
V0- - 2 ★ 1 Boulder

Easy Slabs

7
V1/2 ★★ 2 Boulder

Traverse along the high break and then come back along the low underclings for a fun circuit

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8
V3 The Box Boulder 5m

Up the white overhang, follow the slopers to the next set of pockets on the right, then come back down and back to the crimps. Rinse and repeat.

9
V1 ★ The White Overhang / #3 Boulder 3m

East side of the South Boulder.

Some nice pockets on the white streak. Straight up

10
V2/3 ★ 4 Boulder

Start up 'The White Overhang' and traverse along the pockets rightwards staying below the break.

11
V1/2 ★ 5 Boulder

The broad white streak, powerful climbing and a committing top.

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12
V5 Power saving mode Boulder 1m

A V5/6 Circuit for people on V3 power.

Start at the sandy sloper break on the north side of the south boulder. Traverse left via the high ear and the low crimps. Stay low and go round the corner and do the juggy arete. Climb back down and continue round via action man eigerwand. Traverse under the lip. Stop and do the box, climb back down and continue round the corner (staying low) into challenge Anneka. Then reverse all of this back to the start.

FA: Ziggy Samways, 22 May 2019

13
V4/5 Marathon Man Boulder 8m

Start on the small crimps and the ear, move up into the underclings in the roof. Head right along the lip and into the juggy arete. Then round the corner and into the overhang traverse to a sit finish on the grass.

FA:

14
V3 Action Man Eigerwand Boulder 1m

One hard move. Start matched on the pinch at shoulder level and reach up behind you to the sloper in the roof in front of the hole and match. No using the hole!

FA: Ziggy Samways, 8 Oct 2018

15
V0 - 1 ★ The Juggy Arete / #6 Boulder 3m

Style up the insanely juggy arete. Heaps of fun! Yes, the rock is solid.

Start: North-east arete of south boulder

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16
V2/3 The Overhang Traverse / #7 Boulder 6m

Classic line. Traverse the lip of the overhang on the north side of the southern boulder. Sit start on the sand on the left, sit finish (!) on the grass up on the right. Plenty of jugs, do it any way you want. V3 without using feet on the wall.

17
V0- - 4 ★ 8 Boulder

A narrow hard line above the big pocket on the lip.

18
V2 ★★ the crimp rotator Boulder 2m

Traverse the break from the middle of the north face of the south boulder. Up via the crimps to the undercling. Left to the lip and back down to the crimps. Rinse and repeat.

The next three problems all start off the low jugs in the roof left of the arete.

19
V1 ★ Gunman on the Grassy Knoll / #9 Boulder 3m

The north face of the south boulder. A sit start on the jugs in the roof and up using the big hole.

20
V1 - 5 ★★ 10 Boulder

From the jugs in the roof, move up to the arete and awkwardly up its left hand side.

21
V4 - 6 ★★ 11 Boulder

From the jugs, move right through the low roof and powerfully, slappily and technically up the other side of the arete.

22
V0 - 2 ★★ East Side Traverse 1 / #12 Boulder 5m

Climb up the juggy arete (n/e corner) then traverse left along the horizontal break across to the ladder and climb back down.

23
V3 ★★ East side North side link up Boulder 11m

Start at the ladder at the South/East end of the South boulder. Go up to the break traverse along the break to the North East Corner. Go round the corner into the overhang traverse. It's probably been done before, but I've listed it as it's a good link up.

Set by Ziggy Samways

FA: 14 Nov 2015

24
V3 ★★★ The West Side Traverse 2 / #13 Boulder 8m

Traverse the drill holes staying below the break starting from the north end. Fun and Pumpy

The Straight and Slab Boulder Back to contents

25
★★ Traverse of E Face Boulder

From down-climb traverse left staying about 0.5m below top, finish on pedestal of problem 20

26
V3 ★★ The Crack / #22 Boulder 4m

Merge with the Crack

27
V7 Crimp City / #21 Boulder 4m

Crimp your way up, high and committing, the crack on the left is a no go.

The Southern face of the North Boulder

28
V1 ★ Mr. Mantle / #20 Boulder 4m

South West edge of the Northern Boulder

Sit start on the southern edge. Mantle the Ledge and then up!

29
V1 ★ The Ledge / #19 Boulder 4m

Get yourself onto that Ledge and then commit to the right side of the blunt arete.

North Boulder; West side of the South Western arete.

30
V3 ★ 18 Boulder

A tricky slab right of the arete.

31
V2 ★ 17 Boulder

Go straight up from the letterbox.

32
V1 ★ 16 Boulder 4m

East side of the North Boulder.

Start at the letterbox slot and move up and right to the crack

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33
V0 - 1 ★ The Flake / #15 Boulder 4m

Up to the flake and layback which makes up the left side of the window.

Start: Left side of east face of north boulder

34
V8 ★★★ I Just Wanna Go Swimming! / #14 Boulder

Desperate and technical slab/wall bouldering. Climb up through the window without using the big features on either side. Middle of the Eastern wall on the North Boulder

35
V4 ★ The Problem Of Palm Beach / #13 Boulder 4m

Up using the thin seam at the right side of the window which turns left up the top.

Start: Middle of the east face of the north boulder

36
V3 ★★ 12 Boulder

Up the ironstone edges above 'T.M.'

37
V4 ★ Don't Know / #11? Boulder 5m

The crimps to the right of the seam

38
V1 ★ The Open Seam / #10 Boulder 4m

East side of the North Boulder.

Up the open seam

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39
V1 ★ Low Traverse Boulder 3m

Sit start low down at the north end of the north boulder, traverse the low crack to just below the flake problem. The difficulty depends on how much sand is here. When the sand is high this is harder as all the footers are gone and you will be bunched.

40
V0 9 Boulder

Up via a couple of big breaks just left of the blunt arete.

41
V0 ★ The Easy Slab / #8 Boulder 4m

Easiest way to climb the north boulder via slabby ledges and some letterbox slots.

Start: On the blunt arete on the North-east face.

42
V4 ★★ Ciggy Sends Boulder

On the north boulder, start on the north eastern arete at the big crack and the letter box. Start both feet just below letterbox and match in the letter box. Use the crack above you to shimmy round the arete and top out using jug high up on the top of the boulder (recommend using a heel hook when you reach the top out).

FA: 27 Dec 2019

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43
V2 ★★ North Side Rising Traverse Boulder 4m

Sit start low down on the north side, north boulder. Rising traverse to top right corner of the north west corner.

44
V0 Daisy's Traverse Boulder 3m

Start at the corner on the north east side of the north boulder and traverse round to the west side.

45
V1 ★ Lefty Loosey / #7 Boulder 4m

The Left of the North Face, Just right of the Arete. Straight up, good fun!

46
V0+ ★ The North Face / #6 Boulder 4m

Fun crimpy face on ironstone edges.

Start: North face of the north boulder

47
V1 ★ Righty Tighty / #5 Boulder 4m

The very right of the North face. Undercling to start and up the crimps!

48
V2 ★ The North Arete / #4 Boulder 4m

Starting on the western side using the jugs. Then work your way up using the arete

49
V4 ★★ 4a Boulder

R side of the arete via a long reach

50
V3 ★★ 3 Boulder 3m

A big move off the jug to the top. West side of the North Boulder

51
V2 ★★ Rising Traverse / #2 Boulder 2m

1m right of the jug, up diagonally finishing at the top of 'The Way Out'. Great Problem.

52
V2 ★ The Way Out / #1 Boulder 3m

On the western side of the North boulder close to the bench, start low by the dumb white arrow. Hard move into a side pull

53
V3 ★★ Holy Moly Boulder 3m

Starts with good footholds, fun begins right after the undercling. Then goes to some crimpy vertical moves until the committing end. Really good route!

54
V4 ★★ Just Don't Care Boulder 3m

Start matched on the jug, feet wherever, and launch up throwing both hands in the air like you just don't care catching on each side of the small horn in break. Top out however you like

FA: Stephen Rawls, 23 Sep 2017

The Crocodile Back to contents

The low and flat boulder that looks (a bit) like a crocodiles head. As oppose to a turtles head, which is different.

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55
V4 Never Smile At A Crocodile Boulder 1m

Sit start at the north end of the boulder, traverse the lip to the south end and match on the 'high' jug.

FA: Ziggy Samways, 29 Oct 2017

North Palm Beach Boulders Back to contents

Bouldering at the northern-most point of Palm Beach with a good variety of boulders that are mostly in the shade. The climbs are located on the boulders between the beach and the huge split block visible from the beach

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56
V0 ★ Han Solo Boulder 2m

Sit start on the left hand side of birds beak boulder, go straight up on jugs.

FA: Ziggy Samways, 16 Oct 2018

57
V2 Chewbacca ate my lunch Boulder 3m

Sit start and hug the slopers on the bulge, pull up and work your way up on the friable juglets trying not to snap anything.

FA: Ziggy Samways, 16 Oct 2018

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58
V3 ★★ French doors fridge (left) Boulder 5m

Left side of the big block on the beach. Start on R jug and L arete. Up through hole to topout slightly right.

59
V4 French doors fridge (right) Boulder 5m

Right side of the big block on the beach. Two corners and some sharp holds in between.

The following boulders are further along, close to the huge split boulder visible from the beach.

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60
V1 ★★ Palm Span Boulder 3m

Start on hole in middle and top out

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61
V3 Mai Tai Boulder 3m

Sitstart on far right side pull rail, move left and out.

62
V1 ★ Strawberry Daiquiri Boulder 3m

Sit start up middle of block

63
V2 ★ piña colada Boulder 3m

sitstart and follow fading rail and top out left

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64
V3 ★★ Palm Suga Boulder 2m

Start sitting on the rock platform up to small ridge then big move to top and mantle.

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65
V4 ★★ Pick Your Pocket Boulder 4m

Sitstart as for Parallelogram and move up just left of the steep prow.

FA: Martijn van Eijkelenborg, 25 Apr 2018

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66
V5 ★★★ Parallelogram Boulder 4m

Sitstart on low jugs and follow the grooves up.

FA: matt matheson, 1 Dec 2016

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