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Palm Beach Boulders

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Summary

Two large and prominent stand-alone boulders on the sand in the middle of Palm Beach with some good problems on them

Excellent for a day of bouldering and a swimming.

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Description

The North Palm Beach bouldere have been moved to Barrenjoey.

Storm Update: The sand comes and goes, some problems may now start under it, others may now be much higher than they were initially.

The numbered alternate names for problems are from Peter Balint's "Sydney Bouldering" Guide from 2001 (http://www.australianbouldering.com/guides/sydney/sydney_guide)

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Access issues inherited from New South Wales and ACT

If you have benefited from climbing infrastructure in NSW, please consider making a donation towards maintenance costs. The Sydney Rockclimbing Club Rebolting Fund finances the replacement of old bolts on existing climbs and the maintenance of other hardware such as fixed ropes and anchors. The SRC purchases hardware, such as bolts and glue, and distributes them to volunteer rebolters across the state of New South Wales. For more information, including donation details, visit https://sydneyrockies.org.au/rebolting/

Approach

For the boulders in the middle of Palm Beach, continue on Barrenjoey road around the to the ocean side of the peninsula and drive south along the beach until you see the two large boulders. Pull up right next to them.

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Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Routes

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Grade Route

The low and flat boulder to the South of the overhang boulder, that looks (a bit) like a crocodiles head. As opposed to a turtles head, which is different.

Sit start at the north end of the boulder, traverse the lip to the south end and match on the 'high' jug.

FA: Ziggy Samways, 29 Oct 2017

The overhanging or Southern boulder.

South side of the south boulder. Sit start and pull up round the roof using the side pull.

Same as 'Chosstity belt' but use the crimp on the face and stay off the side pulls.

Shimmy and squeeze up through the hole in the southern boulder. Best to dare your mate to do it and then watch and laugh.

Start: East face of southern boulder.

Easy Slabs

Traverse along the high break and then come back along the low underclings for a fun circuit

Up the white overhang, follow the slopers to the next set of pockets on the right, then come back down and back to the crimps. Rinse and repeat.

Start matched on the jug, feet wherever, and launch up throwing both hands in the air like you just don't care catching on each side of the small horn in break. Top out however you like

FA: Stephen Rawls, 23 Sep 2017

East side of the South Boulder.

Some nice pockets on the white streak. Straight up

Start up 'The White Overhang' and traverse along the pockets rightwards staying below the break.

The broad white streak, powerful climbing and a committing top.

A V5/6 Circuit for people on V3 power.

Start at the sandy sloper break on the north side of the south boulder. Traverse left via the high ear and the low crimps. Stay low and go round the corner and do the juggy arete. Climb back down and continue round via action man eigerwand. Traverse under the lip. Stop and do the box, climb back down and continue round the corner (staying low) into challenge Anneka. Then reverse all of this back to the start.

FA: Ziggy Samways, 22 May 2019

Start on the small crimps and the ear, move up into the underclings in the roof. Head right along the lip and into the juggy arete. Then round the corner and into the overhang traverse to a sit finish on the grass.

FA:

One hard move. Start matched on the pinch at shoulder level and reach up behind you to the sloper in the roof in front of the hole and match. No using the hole!

FA: Ziggy Samways, 8 Oct 2018

Style up the insanely juggy arete. Heaps of fun! Yes, the rock is solid.

Start: North-east arete of south boulder

Classic line. Traverse the lip of the overhang on the north side of the southern boulder. Sit start on the sand on the left, sit finish (!) on the grass up on the right. Plenty of jugs, do it any way you want. V3 without using feet on the wall.

A narrow hard line above the big pocket on the lip.

Traverse the break from the middle of the north face of the south boulder. Up via the crimps to the undercling. Left to the lip and back down to the crimps. Rinse and repeat.

The next three problems all start off the low jugs in the roof left of the arete.

The north face of the south boulder. A sit start on the jugs in the roof and up using the big hole.

From the jugs in the roof, move up to the arete and awkwardly up its left hand side.

From the jugs, move right through the low roof and powerfully, slappily and technically up the other side of the arete.

Climb up the juggy arete (n/e corner) then traverse left along the horizontal break across to the ladder and climb back down.

Start at the ladder at the South/East end of the South boulder. Go up to the break traverse along the break to the North East Corner. Go round the corner into the overhang traverse. It's probably been done before, but I've listed it as it's a good link up.

Set: Ziggy Samways

FA: 14 Nov 2015

Traverse the drill holes staying below the break starting from the north end. Fun and Pumpy

From down-climb traverse left staying about 0.5m below top, finish on pedestal of problem 20

Merge with the Crack

Crimp your way up, high and committing, the crack on the left is a no go.

The Southern face of the North Boulder

A hold up high and right has broken off.

South West edge of the Northern Boulder

Sit start on the southern edge. Mantle the Ledge and then up!

Get yourself onto that Ledge and then commit to the right side of the blunt arete.

North Boulder; West side of the South Western arete.

A tricky slab right of the arete.

Go straight up from the letterbox.

East side of the North Boulder.

Start at the letterbox slot and move up and right to the crack

Up to the flake and layback which makes up the left side of the window.

Start: Left side of east face of north boulder

Desperate and technical slab/wall bouldering. Climb up through the window without using the big features on either side. Middle of the Eastern wall on the North Boulder

Up using the thin seam at the right side of the window which turns left up the top.

Start: Middle of the east face of the north boulder

Up the ironstone edges above 'T.M.'

The crimps to the right of the seam

East side of the North Boulder.

Up the open seam

Sit start low down at the north end of the north boulder, traverse the low crack to just below the flake problem. The difficulty depends on how much sand is here. When the sand is high this is harder as all the footers are gone and you will be bunched.

Start up The Open Seam but move left at mid height. Follow the tricky sequence of crimps across the wall with your feet following the Low Traverse break. Finish up #18 - the V3 just right of the arete.

Start up The Open Seam then traverse left just before the top. Reverse The Flake to the big break and keep going left to Mr. Mantle. Finish up this.

Up via a couple of big breaks just left of the blunt arete.

Easiest way to climb the north boulder via slabby ledges and some letterbox slots.

Start: On the blunt arete on the North-east face.

On the north boulder, start on the north eastern arete at the big crack and the letter box. Start both feet just below letterbox and match in the letter box. Use the crack above you to shimmy round the arete and top out using jug high up on the top of the boulder (recommend using a heel hook when you reach the top out).

FA: 27 Dec 2019

Sit start low down on the north side, north boulder. Rising traverse to top right corner of the north west corner.

Start at the corner on the north east side of the north boulder and traverse round to the west side.

The Left of the North Face, Just right of the Arete. Straight up, good fun!

Fun crimpy face on ironstone edges.

Start: North face of the north boulder

The road side of the slab boulder - I suspect that there are several duplicates

The very right of the North face. Undercling to start and up the crimps!

Starting on the western side using the jugs. Then work your way up using the arete

R side of the arete via a long reach

A big move off the jug to the top. West side of the North Boulder

1m right of the jug, up diagonally finishing at the top of 'The Way Out'. Great Problem.

On the western side of the North boulder close to the bench, start low by the dumb white arrow. Hard move into a side pull

Starts with good footholds, fun begins right after the undercling. Then goes to some crimpy vertical moves until the committing end. Really good route!

this climb is on the road side of north boulder. As opposed to reaching straight to the top slab, cross right hand into top crimp of jug section, then left hand reaches to the small crimp to the left. Re position feet and dyno to the top slab

large section with jugs and start feet as low as possible. Dyno straight from here to the juicy slab above and easy top out. this climb has potentially already been named and set in a guide by Peter Balint? Anyone is welcome to change it accordingly.

FA: Will Schubert, 17 Jan 2021

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