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Summary

Only a few problems here; however what Black Cave lacks in quantity it makes up in quality of climbs.

Description

AKA Manly Cave AKA Forty Basket Beach

Approach

Park on Beatty St and take a narrow walkway with stairs all the way to the beach. Hang a right and then walk along the rocky shoreline a couple of hundred meters to the crag. http://youtu.be/5SUPg5N0hvw

Routes

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Grade Route

Stand Start on big undergoing on the far LHS of the roof. Climb straight up through juggy pockets and a high pinch. Don't underestimate the topout or the terrible landing.

Stand start on big undercling on the far left of the roof. Climb rightward to top out on the nice sidepull feature.

Same as right to left but topout as all others instead of finishing on the starting hold of the V4

Start Matched and Heelhooked on the lower far right cling. Proceed to traverse the lip in reverse direction to the V4 (Right to left) finishing matched on the starting hollow jug of the V4

Start on the shelf. Big move to the hueco then top out via the elegant crescent shaped holds just right of Dead Calm. Reachy.

A great Eliminate. Traverse from right to left using holds in the roof and on the actual lip only . Once you've dropped down to the hueco keep heading left to top out via the short wall on the far LHS a of the cave as for DISW. The early topout directly from the Hueco is Aquarious V6.

Same as Cruel Sea but cuts out the crux sequence by going straight towards the topout as for Dead Calm. Stay low all the way with the "upper V5 Lip" being out.

Far right cave problem. Can be done in a number of different ways including a crazy dyno that could potentially send you rolling down to a rocky but somewhat refreshing swim in the ocean. Beta can be found here http://youtu.be/O6RO1dzvQD0 all credit goes to Byron Glover and Mattias.

The Plunge into the Lower Lip Traverse.

Crazy roof right on the waters edge of the ocean. 8 hard moves in a roof to a cool headwall and top out. FA sequence V13 (can be found here https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hT-0Fyw6ckc), new beta sequence V12 (can be found here http://youtu.be/PXw814Cnd5o)

FA: Chris Webb Parsons, 2008

Start with both hands inside the undercling on the far left. Then traverse left to right on the lip. The roof is out.

Start at the right side V5 and straight up. Heel hooked and feet off the adjacent rock for the full grade. Good warm up for the V4.

FA: unknown

Set by al bradley & Al Bradley, 15 Sep 2017

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