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Approach

The approach is in the description of the different areas below.

Routes

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Grade Route

Walk up the fire trail close to the Wakehurst Parkway entrance for approximately 100m. The track ends abruptly after 80m, but keep going straight for another 20m. To your left, head up hill for 25m until you get to the boulder. It's near a large tree and the boulder has a distinctive pocket near the arete.

Start left hand side of cave in lie down position, left hand undercling back of cave right hand crimp, match crimps & head right into "Defcon 1". Ledge is in.

FA: Damien Alexander, 6 Feb 2015

Start as for "Apocalypse" & head right all the way to the start of "Jimmy's 5" & climb this. Ledge is in.

FA: Damien Alexander, 6 Feb 2015

Start at "Jimmy's 5" in lie down position on right hand side of cave & head left to arete & up & keep going & mantle. Save something for the second crux & no traversing right into "Jimmy's 5".

FA: Damien Alexander, 6 Feb 2015

Right hand side of cave lie down position, a few big moves on crimps to a highball mantle straight up face.

3 meters to the right of Jimmy's 5. Powerful moves through lower face on good left hand sidepull with bad feet. Balancy move to the Grinning Reaper jug and carefully mantle the top.

FA: Roman Rosen, 12 Dec 2015

The following routes can be found by walking up the same fire trail as for Apocalypse but almost immediately turning left to follow the mountain bike track for about 100m.

Start on the pockets as for Heel Hole and move to the arete and up

FA: Tom Osborne, 26 May

Start on the 2 pockets. Straight up.

Sitstart and up the blunt arete.

FA: Tom Osborne, 26 May

Start as for Poppy Long Socks, move right and up.

Follow the path past the bike track boulders, take the first turn on the left, and after about 140m (at the top where the path starts going down again), you see the boulder on the right about 20m away.

Start on the jug under the roof and move through the slopers along the lip to the topout.

Another 50m along the bike track beyond Lizard's Lip turn left down a gully, and either turn left towards the following scriblly rock with easy boulders, or turn right under some roofs to a triangular pinnacle.

Straight up on edges. With some high v0 options left of it

Up the ridge on the side of the boulder with If Only

Boulders on the right side of the grassy oval at the end of the Parking

Areas

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