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North Harbour Slab

  • Grade context: AU
  • Approach time: 3 minutes
  • Photos: 4
  • Ascents: 117
  • Aka: Fergus' Boulder
15
BLDV

Seasonality

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Description

A collection of V0s & V1s with easy access on a sunny 2m slab and couple of other boulders.

All these routes have been climbed for decades, please do some research before claiming FAs.

Access issues inherited from New South Wales and ACT

If you have benefited from climbing infrastructure in NSW, please consider making a donation towards maintenance costs. The Sydney Rockclimbing Club Rebolting Fund finances the replacement of old bolts on existing climbs and the maintenance of other hardware such as fixed ropes and anchors. The SRC purchases hardware, such as bolts and glue, and distributes them to volunteer rebolters across the state of New South Wales. For more information, including donation details, visit https://sydneyrockies.org.au/rebolting/

Approach

Park in Gourlay Ave Balgowlah, or the beach carpark at the end of the street. Take the track uphill opposite the 2nd last house and Spit to Manly walk marker, past a water pipe. About 100 metres up the hill, you'll come to some rocks. From the top look south & you'll see North Harbour Slab below you.

State of overgrowth may vary. In 2019 it is not burnt as in the topo, with soft ferns and leaf litter.

History

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This micro crag has been used by climbers desperate for a hit for years. Probably first discovered by Bryden Allen or one of his mates in the 50s.

Hopefully some more visits will help keep it less overgrown.

Routes

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Grade Route

Up the right edge of the cave, the left & over the top.

FA: unknown

Start under cave at left end of wall. Traverse the length past thin crimps & jug. Stay high, but don't be tempted by the lip.

Alternatively stay low in the middle, slightly harder but less committing.

FA: unknown

FA: unknown

Middle of wall, between the two water runoffs. No top out, no tick.

FA: unknown

Right end of slab?

Just right of split between two boulders.

Sit start, up then lunge right.

Long reach to crimps, then up.

Up slight scoop 1.5m right of Crimps for Chimps - on pocket and more crimps!

At the right end of the boulder. Start with right hand in slanted crimp and left in duo-pocket, swing for sloper, and finish with rounded topout.

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