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Routes in Barrenjoey for selected grade

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Showing all 16 routes.

Grade Route Gear style Popularity
Southwest
14 Evil Spuds

The overhang.

Trad 6m
14 Albatross

5m right of FF.

Traverse left to join FF. No pro (soloed on FA).

FA: Craig D. Martin & Craig B. Martin, 1983

Trad 15m
14 Carrie Bradshaw

Start: 2m left of Two Steps Forward. Start with your back to the tree. Straight up past 3 BRs, then small cams (0.4 and 0.75/1 Camalot) in breaks to a Double BB.

FA: Niall Doherty, 2003

Mixed trad 12m, 3
14 Starboard Barnacles

Marked. 2m left of CB (just left of tree).

Pleasantly sustained. 3 BRs and optional cam near top. Double BB belay.

FA: Johan Verhagen & Dave Stuckey, 1984

Sport 20m
14 R Elf Town

Marked. 2m left of SB. BR, runout to break (cam) then up over bulge (BR) to BB and RB belay

FA: Johan Verhagen & Dave Stuckey, 1984

Trad 20m
14 Judgement Day

2m left of ET.

Fingery to crack, up, then corner / chimney. Belay as for ET.

FA: Northern Beaches Cliff Training Team, 1975

Trad 20m
14 Domino

Corner crack 2m left of ISHFWILF

Past chockstones, getting harder with height.

FA: Northern Beaches Cliff Training Team, 1975

Trad 20m
14 Computer Sox

3m left of SV.

Up wall past ledges (take 3 mid size cams) to double BB belay.

FA: Craig D. Martin & Martin Jones, 1982

Trad 7m
14 Hemholtz Tunglebung's Stupidity

A queer fish if ever there was one.

Start: 2m left of CH crack Up wall (small cams and BR) to double BB belay. Descend using the double RB rap station on the wall a few metres above the belay.

Mixed trad 6m, 1
14 Pledge a Legend

1m left of NYACS, below obvious crack in centre of wall.

Steeply up crack to traverse line. Step left (crux) then follow crack up to headwall slab (BR). Double BB belay.

Protection: - 1 carrot - Cams: BD #.3 (doubles), #.5 (doubles), #2

Anchors: 2 carrots (too close to the edge) 2 trees about 2 meters back from edge

FA: Northern Beaches Cliff Training Team, 1975

Trad 16m
Insomnia Cave Rock
14 No Sorry It Makes Me Fart

2m left of ODG.

Take easiest start slightly left of bolts to gain top of bulge, then step right and up past 2 BRs and medium cam to double BB belay. The FA was done without any bolts, but they were added with the first ascentionist's permission.

FA: Mark O’Sullivan & Ray Haak, 2004

Unknown 9m
North Palm Beach
14 Frog's Anus

"Not bad if dry." Corner crack with cam top belay.

Start: Crack in corner with large boulder at base.

FA: Craig B. Martin, Craig D. Martin & A Montgomery, 1982

Trad 10m
14 Roomba Revisited Direct

Original description "boulder problem". Now has 3 stainless carrots that don't quite fit standard bolt plates, prepare wires before ascent.

  1. Place low cam before first bolt, then power up on left side of arete and solid ledges on face. Stainless carrot BB on edge of prow, and another further back shared with "Quarto".

  2. Finish up "Quarto".

Start: Bulge 2m left of "Quarto"

Sport 10m, 2, 3
14 Eulogy

"Looks hard, luckily it's just airy."

Up corner to top of block under roof. Traverse right above void and up right wall above roof cracks on good jugs.

Start: Corner 5m right of "Same as it Ever Was"

FA: Craig D. Martin, 1984

Unknown 22m
14 Selfie Destructive Invective

Corner with off-width section that looks wide but doesn't need big gear. Stem or ironstone edge off both walls.

Trad 6m
Disorder Corners
14 Epic

The obvious book corner in the middle of the good rock.

Up the corner to manky BBs. Rap off. Protection looks a bit dubious (the corner looks fused).

FA: Northern Beaches Cliff Training Team, 1975

Trad 15m

Showing all 16 routes.

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