Routes in Nitmiluk Gorge

Takes the clean streak just left of blackened waterstreak on LHS of the Forth Wall. Nice face climbing, increasing in difficulty towards the top, but nothing very hard. Sketchy traverse in from ledge, or water-start.

Right at the start of the 2nd Gorge is a short wall with an obvious mooring ring, which is used to gain arete and good (but slippery) holds. Some thin moves lead up and slightly left up the headwall. Short, but great climbing.

Crackline 4m further left of Ring for Aid, but done by traversing in from ledge on the LHS of wall. Desperately up crack to top out a little more easily. A direct start out of the water might be possible.

Big diagonal crack line, left slanting.

Start on a big ledge 7m out of water 2/3 of the way to the right side of the wall. Up crack just right of big blank walls. Up chimney/off-width to hand crack. Up and left to ledge. Through hard 6m overhanging fist crack section. Easy ramble to top.

Up face and twin crack system left of BB. Start out of the water.

Up slab, hard move over bulge at 4m. Up thin cracks through middle of black slab.

At orange rock where the route becomes vertical stem beside big block on left. Follow holds to top.

• Vegetated slab
• Chossy top

Start halfway up wall opposite Smitt Rock on river right. Ascend the series of heavily vegetated slopey bulges.

This climb begins directly above the rightmost point of gently sloping ledge/ramp.

Up short finger crack/ left facing flack.

From a jug on the left, traverse right through slopey pockets. Move off big pockets up 1.5m, then continue right for 5m. Down climb to water in corner or jump off.

Right to left along section of horizontal breaks. Stay low and follow the holds.

Obvious fist crack from block just out of water. Few off width moves at the top.

Best route on the cookie block.

Layback/crack up the downstream corner of the Cookie Pillar.

In between crack and arete, on big edge and thin crack. Just after bulge, traverse right and finish up AJ.

Up the upstream arete of Cookie Pillar. Move onto front face when necessary.

Obvious crack on orange wall on river left at the top of 8th gorge.

Start on a big ledge 4m out of the water. Scramble onto ledge then straight up slab to stepping stones (or easy scramble around left). Up crack to top.

Descend off downstream side, short scramble.

Start 7m above water on crack on left (looking at wall). Up crack to top.

Start 7m above the water. Up crack to right of SLC. Head left to new crack half way up.

Start hanging on jugs below bulge. Pull up over bulge then continue up right line, not around arete.

Start on the ledge 5m above water. Easy ramble up left corner.

Up 4m, right around bottom of bulge, up crack system.

Straight up middle line. Over bulge with parallel cracks. Don't use left gully.

Start 2m left of arete up slopey bulges then left to finish up shallow crack. Sandy, chossy, slopey black rock. Not enough pro for trad.

Up face 3m left of BS. Over bulge to join finish crack of BS for final 2m. Not enough pro for trad (trad anchor at top)

Up arete just left of corner.

Up corner just left of overhang.

2m left of SP.

2m left of PP.

On wall opposite 9th gorge campsite. Starts on huge ledge one third of the way up the cliff.

Can be accessed by a walk with airy traverse from sandy beach on far left, or easy scramble up juggy blunt arete from far right gully.

Onto a ledge at 6m. mantle onto rectangular block. Up obvious left facing corner with crack at top.

Rap of tree 6m left facing cliff to descend.

Right side of cave 20m downstream of 9th gorge campsite, on campsite side.

Start right of big overhang, onto block at 2m, then traverse left to finish on big red block above overhang.