First Canyon





About 30m right of the slab wall is a grotto feature that has some great steeper walls. It features one of the crag classics Axis of Evil which tackles the impressively overhung buttress in the back of the grotto.

Access issues inherited from Babylon Areas

These crags are remote from civilisation. Be prepared for NO phone reception in and around the Babylon crag areas!

Ethic inherited from Illawarra

Lots of bolts in this region. Most development has been done after the 1980s.

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Grade Route

Start on front of boulder just right of large tree. Up steeply through the slopeyness to the head wall and final arête to anchors. Contains some funky moves as the rock is tilted so none of the breaks are horizontal.

FA: Mike Law, 2000

First route you will find as you enter the canyon. A tree is currently almost touching the black wall which marks the start.

A nice sequency start up the short punchy wall to the slab. Tend up and right to final pumpy moves of desert storm and shared anchor.

FA: Bundy, 2006

Start on the left of orange wall.

Up scooped rock to big flake then climb the steep

orange wall to lower off below cave.

FA: Steve Hawkshaw, 2000

2m right of Desert Storm below orange arête. A bouldery start leads to a bongo drum bolt and rest. Belayer beware as the leader climbs past the loose, crumbly rock. Finish up the steep orange wall and arête.

FA: Chris "Lincoln" Fox, 2005

Just right of 'Intifada'. Mantel up to scoops then up to cave. Head out via steep scoop and tend right to anchors.

FA: Steve Hawkshaw, 2000

In middle of black wall under big white horn. 'Steep' slopey start past 3 bolts to comfortable rest then continue up the committing crimpy headwall past three more bolts to lower off.

FA: Neil Monteith

On left side of the narrow steep scooped wall. Up the scoop on jugs and fantastically solid rock to crimpy face, then continue to rest and launch through final bulge to anchor. Take care when cleaning in order to avoid swinging into boulder behind the belayer. Overhangs 5m in 18m! Crag Classic, a test piece for the grade in 'Nowra'.

FA: Steve Hawkshaw, 2000

A link up but worthwhile as its so long. Head up Axis past the first five bolts (don't clip the sixth or you will get killer rope drag). Hand traverse right and finish up the last five bolts of the Final Solution.

FA: Steve Hawkshaw, 2000

Start: just right of AoE. Solo up corner to ledge with care as you reach the top. Head up wall to 2nd bolt then do some unlikely thin moves (just right of Axis) to reach break. Tend right through scoops to jugs and launch up steep wall to cave. Sneak Mcdougall rest at cave and continue up final wall to anchors.

FA: Steve Hawkshaw, 2000

Start: on right side of pyramid shaped block Climb right side of block to ledge then up hand crack to off width and up to cliff top. TRAD

FA: Howie McGhie & Chris Fox, 2000

Up awkward looking crack

Start in back of the canyon. Best for belayer to be down below the start. Up and around blunt prowl thingo. Up and over small rooflet and onto jugs to top of cliff. Maybe take a small cam for the run out section under the roof.

FA: Jason Lammers, 2000

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