Bill James Testimonial Gully




Steeper and more featured than most of Tianjara. Quite long routes which start steep and juggy and finish on slabby crimps.

Access issues inherited from Tianjara Falls

BOLTING IS BANNED to the left (south) of the lookout and 100m right of the lookout as this is National Park land. Please avoid climbing on the cliff directly under the lookout, not only will you probably get a rock or beer bottle thrown at you from the tourists, you'll also attract unwanted attention from the authorities! Do not build new rock cairns - apparently there is an $11,000 fine if you do.


This is the wall at the bottom of the first rocky descent gully on the northern side of the waterfall/lookout. Turn left at the bottom of the gully.

Descent notes

All routes have lower-offs

Ethic inherited from Illawarra and Shoalhaven

Lots of bolts in this region. Most development has been done after the 1980s.

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)


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The left climb on the orange wall. Bouldery and Fun!

Set by Jason Lammers, 20 Jun 2011

Funky radness on awesome rock.

Set by Jason Lammers & Wade Stewart

FA: Jason Lammers, 24 Apr 2018

Easy like Sunday Morning.

Start at the old chains, up the easy ramp past an old pin and some new fixed hangers up high.

FA: Bill James, 1950

Up the techo slab just left of JTP

FA: Jason Lammers, 12 Nov 2010

Up then right into vertical crack, clipping 1000's of ring bolts to lower offs at 2/3 height. If your a keen trad dad continue up the easy crack to the top to new carrot and tree anchor.

FA: G Hill, 2000

The sculpted wall hidden in alcove up left of orange face.

FA: Rod Young, 2010

Climbs the scoops on the left side of the arete then up arete on great rock. All FHs. The first bolt is crazy high and dangerous to reach - stick-clip it from boulder next to it.

FA: G Hill, 2000

Up Cornerstone for 2 bolts then climb around grey pillar and up Grouple Guy to anchors.

The right side of the left arete. A little bit of choss to get started through bulge then really sweet climbing all the way to the top.

FA: Rod Young, 2010

All killer - no filler. Climb first two bolts of Driller, then monkey left across steep pockets to Cornerstone arete. This is a better and slightly harder way of doing Cornerstone.

FA: Monty Curtis, 2009

Steep orange face that's dry in any weather, and overhangs about 3m. Steeply through start to big white pocket, then screw your finger into the dubious mono. Come back in two months after finger has healed and pull the move again with success. Finish through roof. Superb rock quality.

FA: Monty Curtis & Jibe Tribout, 2009

Start on right side of raised rock platform. Up crazy scoop on the suss jugs, with the rock getting better as you go. Then battle through the roof and doodle up slab to anchors.

FA: Rod Young

A truly tried and tested favorite guaranteed to appease the taste buds. Starts on the far right side of the upper ledge. A little steep on horizontals.

FA: C McGavock, 2008

Another way old climb that was done before recorded time had begun. Probably by the old cockroach himself (Bill James). PS changed named from Cabrank senile?

Start: At the bottom of the right leaning diagonal ramp which splits the face in this area.

FA: Bill James

An excellent mid week option! Another long euro-enduro adventure at the grade. Most of these climbs are similar, but this is probably the best one.

FA: Rod Young

A great addition to the market. fully imported. Sweet on sundays after a recovery brunch. The little corner down low.

FA: Rod Young, 2008

Does it get any better than that? Recline the chair, sit back and enjoy the contest!

FA: Rod Young, 2008

Links start of Fricasse Maison into finish of Blackout. Look out as a 60 meter rope won't get you off this baby in one hit you will have to break the descent and rap again on FM anchors which are 23 meters off the ground.

FA: G Hill, 2009

A little tricky lower down but you will get used to the potential fall unless you take it.

Start: At Wombat Combat under orange wall and three meters left of corner crack Triantithingy.

FA: V Hill, 2009

The corner crack to peapod and overhang. Done in the days before Friends were invented and the hexs rattled out around your ankles as you passed them by. I rather like the newer names.

Start: Corner crack on the left side of the cave structure

FA: G Hill, 1977

Some holds are a little dirty but don't let that put you off. Generally its a pile of rubbish and i can't think of why i wasted seven bolts on it, only to say i liked the name string it would form with the climbs around it which are also rubbish.

Start: Left side of orange cave like structure. Two meters right of crack in corner.

FA: Hill

Sustained little pumper with some choice little perfect pockets. The route goes up the centre of the orangy cave like structure, between two traddy corners. Scramble up loose stuff onto start ledge.

FA: Neil Monteith, 2008

Why anyone would climb a rotten corner like this i don't know but i have, probably with a good helmet on. And yes we graded it 10.

Start: Two meters right of CL in rotten corner.

FA: R Chunder G Hill, 1978

All large items have been disposed of any further holds you rip off are your own fault.

Start: Ledge just right of chicken lips.

FA: G Hill, 2009

The next routes start to the right of a small cave, (partly) formed by a boulder breaking off from the bottom of the cliff.

Nov '18: there is a broad headed snake that has taken up residence in one of the pockets on this climb. This is an endangered species (and venomous) - please do not disturb.

Up SoL and then move diagonally leftwards.

  1. 20m (14) Up the slab to belay at top left hand corner of wall.

  2. 20m (16) Continue to top the cliff. Belay in little alcove thingo.

FA: Rick Phillips, 2015

Very nice two pitch climb a slab grade 12 at the bottom with a stunning 14 metres of grade 24 at the top

FA: rick phillips

One of the original classics from some time b4 the last ice age. An easy wall with good gear. A must for all the Trad Dad's. Now bolted and given 18 in the guide (Mustard?), you be the judge.

Start: Right of SL at short and blocky corner. Under obvious slightly off vertical wall with three cracks in it. You can lower on a 60m rope to the floor with about 5 metres left (if belaying from on the block).

FA: G Hill R Chunder, 1978

Up the corner crack and then follow the left crack system off ledge. Another very old route, at least you get bolts for the first 5 meters.

Start: In Corner of Mythical Tomatoes.

FA: G Hill & Hans Gimpeliji, 1978

Up Ketchup for 3 bolts and then move out left. Easy exposed awesomeness with lots of bolts. Nice rock and positions. Shares the line with Mythical Tomatoes (accidental retrobolting?). You can lower on a 60m rope to the floor with about 5 metres left (if belaying from on the block).

A fine slab angle wall. Sustained climbing at about grade 19 from mid way up. Use the crack at the first blank bit or just grit your teeth and climb thru it for a better experience, not much harder this way. Graded only for the sustained nature. A confident leader will find it 19 all the way up.

As for Mythical Tomatoes at blocky corner leading to the left side of the ledge at quarter height. Up corner to ledge. Up wall using cracks as necessary to rings at the top.

FA: G. Hill, 2010

The next routes are recorded for historical interest, but not advised. They climb directly under the tourist lookout.

Not a lot of protection through the first wall from memory but think of England, Dave Mcleod & just fake it.

Start: At wall with scooped out bites just right of Mythical tomatoes

FA: Bill James, 1974

A bit of old fashioned run it out trad climbing, taking in all the best looking rock it could.

Start: Same as for Cab Rank under obvious bite out of wall ie under scoops.

FA: G Hill & Hans Gimpeliji, 1978

Another old trad route. Not sure how much pro you get on it but i remember it as run out. Then again its only 14.

Start: Drop down off the ledge where 'Usurper' starts and walk towards the water fall a few meters. Around the nose you will soon see a large left leaning slab and corner with lots of rooves above it. From Cab rank you can look up to the right and see a tree growing from an orange rock ledge this is the last stance.

FA: G Hill & R Chunder, 1978

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