Cassia Cliffs Mostly Sport climbing77 routes in crag
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The old car dump above Cassia Rd.
A long line of cliff perched above Cassia Rd. Some great trad lines undocumented and some new sport routes perched above impressive forest. Although there is a walk in/out option to the west (~500m), most people rap in to respective sections, or use the rungs described in the approach section.
Access to the bottom of the cliff is available from Cassia Rd.
Closed projects should be respected regardless of whether they are tagged or not. Many new routes have been climbed in the recently and have not been published here, rendering this guide even more confusing than it already was.
Turn off Braidwood Rd onto Ebony Road at google maps location -35.0664790, 150.4165850. This is precisely 5.2 klm further west from Turpentine Rd intersection.
Walk or ride bike past locked gate down trail for 900 m to top (go right at fork). Google maps location -35.0741600, 150.4215530
Looking out from cliff, walk left (SE) for 100m to gain 20 or so access rungs at -35.0749230, 150.421956
Alternatively walk right (NW) to gully next to Spandula. Spandula Wall stands out due to a large horizontal roof that juts out near the top. Alternatively you can keep walking NW to an easy scramble down gully. If you want a bottom access and who doesn't, drive down Cassia Road for 2.6 km until you pass the swamp on your left. Swamp is easy to recognize as a big pool of green slime infested water. Park in the pull off on the right. Walk another ten meters and look for a flagged track of socks heading off to the left. Ten minutes of open bush leads to a final steep approach ending at two closed projects.
Squeeze jobs and lazy variants will reign supreme, as most of the walls are blank at the bottom third and its the only way to fit in a load of bolts. Limited scope for long independent face routes exists after Hill gives up climbing.
There is certainly some history and one lonely bolted line existed on FHs previous to recent development , though I believe some great trad lines are yet to be done (maybe with a little cleaning). Any information of pre-existing routes would be appreciated.
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