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Black Mamba Wall

  • Grade context: AU
  • Ascents: 31
10
AU

Seasonality

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Description

Hard crimpy vertical wall.

Access issues inherited from New South Wales and ACT

If you have benefited from climbing infrastructure in NSW, please consider making a donation towards maintenance costs. The Sydney Rockclimbing Club Rebolting Fund finances the replacement of old bolts on existing climbs and the maintenance of other hardware such as fixed ropes and anchors. The SRC purchases hardware, such as bolts and glue, and distributes them to volunteer rebolters across the state of New South Wales. For more information, including donation details, visit https://sydneyrockies.org.au/rebolting/

Ethic inherited from Illawarra and Shoalhaven

Lots of bolts in this region. Most development has been done after the 1980s.

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Routes

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Grade Route

A generally solid wall climb with a good first third. Plenty of bolts with generally sound rock except for the dreaded conglomerate band.

Start: Five meters right of TA. On main wall at small left facing corner.

FA: G Hill, 2010

Start two meters left of Coffee Powered Shit Box. Exceptionally fine climbing up a sparse black wall. Any discomfort you feel on the holds is a result of having too much wanking activity turning your fingers soft. All vicious thin holds have been treated to take the bite out of them so enjoy the excursion. A great set of jugs in the middle takes the heat off this number. Up the short vertical rut section and push out to the left to gain jugs in the lower middle of the wall. Up to offset flake and then move left to follow bolts to the top.

FA: V. Hill, 2011

Great climbing on good sized holds. No razor blade finger stuffing crimpers here. All vicious edges have been dealt with and anything you snap off is because you're off route.

Start: At crack line that leads up towards end of obvious left leading ramp that bisects the wall.

FA: G Hill, 2010

Great pockets and kind edges to the top. Easy for the grade if you calibrate it from the original route on this wall 'Black Mamba'.

Start: Two meters right of Coffee Powered Shit Box. Or a little left of the true start to the obvious bisecting ramp.

FA: G Hill, 2010

A direct to 'September' which adds even thinner climbing to the already fine start.

Start: As for 'September'

FA: G Hill, 2010

About 8m right of the pinnacle on the black face. Thin and crimpy finger-shredding fun! Start up on obvious juggy feature, and straight up on evil crimps, finishing below the big cave and sandy ledge. First route established on this wall.

FA: G. Woldendorp, 2007

Start about 3m right of Black Mamba. Thin face climbing to flake feature,then easier to top.

FA: John Lattanzio, 14 Sep 2019

Great climbing up a slightly slabby wall. No real hard moves just a series of grade 20 sequences to the top. The bolts are placed to protect any unfortunate snap offs you may get on the thin flakes. No finger shredding at all on this one, all tame jugs. Start: Five meters to the right of BM. At obvious hole in the wall. Route name changed at request of first ascentionist

FA: V Hill, 2010

Reasonably sustained wall climbing with a crux near the top. Grade 16 all the way to the anchors.

Start: Same as 'Black Member' under hole in wall.

FA: V Hill, 2010

Another solid wall climb, that keeps it's interest until almost the top before it gives up. The batman start avoids a rather strenuous start from the flake on the left.

Start: Three meters right of BM. Batman to first bolt.

FA: G Hill, 2010

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