Routes in Nowra for selected grade

Marked BB. Shares the same start as BBB but heads straight up.

A total Nowra classic. Great fun roofing with very cool moves. Pity it is quite short, but at least you get a bit of exposure. This route starts in the exposed cave above the closed Mini Wall. Do not abseil down Mini Wall to get off - scramble off instead.

THIS SMALL WALL BELOW COWBOY JUNKIES IS CLOSED. AND IS VERY UNLIKELY TO EVER BE RE-OPENED TO CLIMBERS, PLEASE RESPECT THAT.

https://www.southcoastregister.com.au/story/4347708/rock-climbers-keen-on-cooperation-and-communication/

Great climbing which has always suffered from muddy runoff when it rains. Please brush the route when you are working it to keep the holds in good order.

Links Electro Rooter directly into the upper half of 'The Hustler'. The improbable moves through the very steep pocketed rock that links the two climbs are intense but wickedly good. The first ascent was achieved without the additional bolt placement in the link-up. The bolt was added a couple of days later to avoid the inevitable carnage that would occur as unsuccessful climbers slammed back into the wall.

Starts up in cave above walking track, either scramble direct up corner or around from the start of The Little Grease cave climbs. Out roof to arete and up this to anchor shared with FIGJAM.

Link-up with good (but safe) air potential. Start as for Lost Weekends.

Dangerous protection.

Maximises the climbing to be had on this fantastic wall. Extend your draws!

ROUTE: Start up Shifting Sands and clip its last bolt but instead of pulling right onto the face, stay left and climb directly up to the first bolt of A Day At The Beast. From here, head left to join into Speed Boat Wankers for three bolts, THEN STEP LEFT AGAIN and finish at the anchor of Funkenstein. You may wish to finish at the Speed Boat Wanker anchor for a grade 24.

ADVICE: The first bolt of A Day At The Beast should be equipped with an extra long runner (unless you like rope drag). You may wish to climb up to the Shifting Sands anchor then scoot left to preplace this protection.

CLEANING: Can be done while getting lowered with some minor shenanigans and a re-direct (or re-thread) at the Shifting Sands anchor.

There are numerous variations on this linkup but I assure you that this is the best one.

Straight up the groove, then slightly left and up to a great jug rest. Recover and fire out the airy crux.

Start: Start 2m left of SL at slight groove. New anchor 23/6/2012

A great line (with a bit of a kink). Some quite hard long moves.

The roof of roofs this end of nowra. Jugs the whole way but getting between them is the trick. Finish out left at the the chain not the new anchors.

Impressive roof route in the cave just south of the descent rungs. Has been rebolted recently.

3 bolt boulder problem. Soft if you can reach the big pocket.

Starts as for Bachelor Busted Balling Bimbo but breaks left at mid height and and finishes above the crux on Shocked. Was 24 for years but most people feel it's fair at 25.

The hardest of the three 25s in this section. Climb first two bolts of BB, then go direct up the wall just left of Trigga.

Cue '90s era gangsta rap. Originally given a different name, the first ascentionist has requested that it now be known by this name. Excellent steep climbing, and the classic Nowra 25. Start where the undercut roof touches the ground (at a ring bolt).

Giles Bradbury was called in to free either this line or Seven Eleven at grade 25 in mid-late 1999 and he named it Teflon Barbie.

The steep arête & hanging lip starting just R of Jammer, with heaps of fixed nonsense.

Up scoop then over to the crack at the top of this traverse to the left and onto the wall above.

Start: Same as POTRM.

The mega crack up the side of the mega block (20m opposite Chinese Water Torture). Overhangs at least 30 degrees - its much steeper than it looks in the topo.

A bit goey at the crux. Start as for Belgian Tourists but step right and up wall and over bulges.

start as for ASM. go left up pinnicle (14) to small ledge then follow rings up steep rock with small sharp holds

Start on the right arete of the cave. Follow the lip up to the crack, then straight up this

A true crag classic, worth the drive. Could be V3 if you’re a rung. Sit start, left hand in good hold above head.

Same start as Gympie Kraft. From the flake, big move to lip, traverse left then mantle and up.

Low sit start with left hand on good crimp (far left) and right hand on pinch block. Head up face to eventually pull onto right side of arete for the top out.

Start on low crimps, just inside cave entrance. Big move up to sloper break (conglomerate band) and follow this around the round arete and finish matched on crimp (left side of arete).

Located at bottom of cave. Sit start matched on slopey jug. Climb straight up to next break, then traverse left to jug above the LHS boulder. match this and step off.

Start in the break under the low roof. Big move out to slopey lip, then straight up to finish.

Sit start and traverse left on the big undercut to join in to the crimps on 'Harder Than You Think'.

Start as for 'Project 2 Nowhere'. Move right via pockets to an airy finish. Bad landing, pads and spotters recommended.

Stand start and up via tough moves.

Stand start and straight up.

Stand start at the slot and the slopey break, head up to the flake then dyno high to the pocket. Obviously, shelf to your left is out. 148cm

A classic of the wall. Tricky crimpy start but persevere as the jugs of glory aren't far off but that's when the pump really sets in. Gentle on the flake, it probably needs to be fixed. While the routes to the left stay dry in the rain, the first half of this route seeps.

Warning: The climb stops at the anchors underneath the small roof. The block above these anchors is loose, do not attempt to climb above the roof to the U-anchor.

Starts up SMH then moves into anhor of D then finishes on breaks to top of wall.

Route name changed at the request of the first ascentionist.

Sit start and traverse right to top out over the bulge.

Sit start and up right on slopers to finish at break.

Starts at flake right of first bolt, 4m lay-off up to 2nd bolt. Climb through a series of fun and difficult sequences all the way to anchor at top of cliff. Easily one of the sweetest 25's in Nowra.

The slightly overhung wall 2m right of MM or just to the left of the crappy chimney. Jump start then up until the jugs run out near the top.

Start with hands matched in good undercling. Go up, finishing at jugs above the sloper. Top out looks mank but might go.

Sit start on ledge, facing out from the cave, with hands compressing the large blob above where you scramble up from the stairs. Transfer to the juggy flake and compress your way to the finishing jug slot.

Contrived start but it forces a nice compression sequence.

Low sit start with right hand in jug side pull and left hand in slot crimp on arete. Slap and crank up to jugs, then head up to arete peak for a top out. Note that the pocket on the right-hand side is only for the right hand, if you put your left hand in it, take V4 (see next climb).

Start in the back left of the cave and climb out via big moves. Mantle onto ledge.

Start as for 'Don't Kill My Vibe', then traverse right and link into 'Rising Sun'.

2 chain anchor.

9RB to Single U anchor.

Climb the big flake. Put a long draw on the bolt at the top. Traverse right into the 'Garden'. Gather your thoughts, then slither your way up the slippery corner then left slightly. Gain an ok rest and punch up the overhung topwall. Impressive line!

Start: Start at base of big flake.

At the impossible blank section down low climb into W&P and then back on route.

An old Chris Fox project that stood bolted for many many years until the first ascent. Up through jugs under the roof, at the third bolt punch way out right to gain a way through the blank section up to the break above (possible alt-method going left?), from there a stiff overhung boulder problem on small sharp crimps to reach the anchor.

A link up but worthwhile as its so long. Head up Axis past the first five bolts (don't clip the sixth or you will get killer rope drag). Hand traverse right and finish up the last five bolts of the Final Solution.

Start: just right of AoE. Solo up corner to ledge with care as you reach the top. Head up wall to 2nd bolt then do some unlikely thin moves (just right of Axis) to reach break. Tend right through scoops to jugs and launch up steep wall to cave. Sneak Mcdougall rest at cave and continue up final wall to anchors.

Start right at the back of the cave. Follow the jugs to the last. V2 if you stop before the crux.

Sit start on right. Lip traverse up and left to top out the same as Dark Paradise.

Sit start near back of cave on big flat jug. Out roof on pockets to second roof with juggy flake. Up the last wall using sloping seam then topout with big hole jug.

Sit start on left side of prow. Move up the arete until you can transfer onto the slab. Top out up scoop.

Sit start on slopers. Head up and diagonally left to top out.

Start as for Black Heart. Traverse left and up via crimps and a RH sloper to top out. V6 if you don't use the sloper. Much crimpier without.

Sit start on the slimpy rail. Big press into Et Tu Brute.

Sit start on jugs. Pull straight up into undercling and then traverse right to join Lime and Coconut, finishing leftwards (see that heuco? yes that one) to top out in cave. The sus block jug is eliminated.

Straight up the middle of the slightly overhanging face. Physical crux at the bottom but mental crux at 6m.

S0. Start up Testicular Fortitude and after the first mantle, move right for a lip traverse with a hard sideways dyno. Top out a couple of moves later. Full high lip traverse still a project.