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Hogwarts Guide

A Crag Guide gives an extensive view of all sub areas and climbs at a point in the index. It shows a snapshot of the index heirachy, up to 300 climbs (or areas) on a single web page. It shows selected comments climbers have made on a recently submitted ascent.

At a minor crag level this should be suitable for printing and taking with you on a climbing trip as an adjunct to your guidebook.

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Contributors

Thanks to the following people who have contributed to this crag guide:

Richo Benjimin Ray J Rob Crow Todd Cole Graeme Hill Match Gavin Jason Capenecas

The size of a person's name reflects their Crag Karma, which is their level of contribution. You can help contribute to your local crag by adding descriptions, photos, topos and more.

Table of contents

1. Hogwarts 6 routes in Area

Summary:
J
F
M
A
M
J
J
A
S
O
N
D

Seasonality

All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: -34.867473, 150.567597

description

A lovely little crag on the walking track down to PC. It currently has 5 easier routes. All are well bolted and fun.

access issues

This climbing area has recently become a focus spot for tension between climbers and the local Aboriginal community. Be informed and respect closures. Clean up chalk and rethink adding additional new routes to crags with access issues.

inherited from Nowra

approach

Park at the end of Rock Hill Road in North Nowra in a gravel parking area on the left. Walk straight ahead into the bush at the end of the street and head left and follow the signs to lower Grotto. Once you get to the bottom and start walking left towards PC you'll see the cliff up to your left. Just make your way up to it anyway you can.

ethic

Mostly developed as a sport climbing and bouldering area. Some trad climbing exists, mainly the pure cracks. If developing new areas keep an eye and and ear out for Aboriginal cultural heritage, including cave art.

inherited from Nowra
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 The Devious Crack of Sirius Black

Start just left of Wingardium Leviosa. Up the crack line

FA: P.Rattenbury, 2011

22 Sport 12m
2 Wingardium Leviosa

Start under the roof on the left side of the crag. Traverse out the roof and once on the headwall follow the left line of bolts

FA: M LeBreton, 2011

13 Sport 12m
3 Expelliarmus

Same start as Wingardium Leviosa but at the headwall follow the right set of bolts.

FA: M LeBreton, 2011

14 Sport 12m
4 The Golden Snitch

FA: 2011

20 Sport 12m
5 Sirius Black

Start 1m right of the corner. Straight up to the left line of scoops.

FA: 2011

15 Sport 12m, 5
6 Is Graeme Hill Severus Snape?

Pretty epic moves at the start and bomber rock on the headwall! Starts in the obvious scoop right of the 15. Stick clip first bolt and launch out the steepest part of the bulge. Shares anchor with the 15.

FA: Alec Landstra & Match, 24 Aug 2020

21 Sport 12m

2. Index by grade

Grade Stars Name Style Pop
13 Wingardium Leviosa Sport 12m
14 Expelliarmus Sport 12m
15 Sirius Black Sport 12m, 5
20 The Golden Snitch Sport 12m
21 Is Graeme Hill Severus Snape? Sport 12m
22 The Devious Crack of Sirius Black Sport 12m
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