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Ethic inherited from Illawarra

Lots of bolts in this region. Most development has been done after the 1980s.

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)


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Grade Route

The short bolted wall directly above the track

Another tight little number that will test your crimp skills. Keep pulling and stop moaning and you will piss up it.

Start: Wall left of the carrot on the walk down track. Right of the chimney.

FA: G Hill, 2000

This one will keep you on your toes. Good foot work will help. A true classic.

Start: Line just to the right of the carrot bolt in the centre of the wall.

FA: G Hill, 2000

Tricky in places that don't even have places.

Start: On the arete just right of sluts of trust.

FA: G Hill, 2000

Follow the cliff line around from the previous routes

Neat slabbing for a few moves then you get right into Vanessa.

Start: Right ten or so meters from TCOR at the clean slab left of slot.

FA: G Hill, 2000

The left most route on the wall.

Start: Right of VV at arete of slot.

FA: G Hill, 2000

A cheap route in the venacular of routers as it joins up a lot of surrounding bolts with few of its own.

Start: As for Vanessa

FA: G Hill, 2000

Up Rock Shoxs to the first bulge then head left to the obvious pocket the up to anchors.

FA: G Hill, 2000

FA: Rod Young, 1995

FA: Rod Young & Chris Gregory, 1995

They get tricky to differentiate in this area so to get the true feel you climb to the right side of the bolts on the lower wall. If it feels way thin and impossibly hard then you have the correct line otherwise you are climbing the 'Fizzbomb' variant start.

Start: At blank wall right of 'Fizzbomb' arete.

FA: G Hill, 2006

FA: G Hill, 2006

FA: Nathan Bolton

Completes the task of making CC a piking traverse in the middle of the wall. Goes where CC was afraid to step.

Start: Next right of CC.

FA: G Hill

Second right of CC

FA: G Hill

Vgroove right of CC

FA: G Hill

Left of overlap. Graded 18 in Rod Young's guide - I changed it from the misleading 21 - this agrees with other comments.

FA: G Hill

The crack was always wet so you just couldn't use it. So only about one hold will work in the crack the rest is thin wall climbing. If the crack dries out look out for global warming its coming sooner than we expect, give up your job and go climb all my classics before you die!

Start: Just meters right of the Egg Roll on the ledge.

FA: G Hill, 2006

All soughts of dubious technologies were tried to stop the wall from leaking out of the pockets. A good climb but you just have to put the wet patch out of your mind and do it.

Start: Down on the ground at corner left of 'Vermin Arete'.

FA: G Hill

FA: G Hill, 2000

A great off vertical wall where you can stand on your feet and contemplate why you can't climb it.

Start: Just right of the 'Wet Patch'.

FA: G Hill

These walls are really great climbing. You're mad if you don't give them a go next time you scurry past.

Start: Cracky thing just right of P's Dog.

FA: G Hill

Best wall in the area bar none!

Start: Just right of Planet 'Pulse'

FA: G Hill, 2006

Vermin From Venus 'Arete' start is so hard you really have to work for the grade. So its better off keeping your finger nails and doing this start instead.

Start: One meter right of the 'Rodent From Rigel'.

FA: G Hill, 2000

FA: Graham Fairburn/bolts by hill

Nails hard start. Those dudes could really crimp it in the old days.

Start: Under arete now complete with new ring bolts.

FA: G Hill

Really good climbing that lets you do the possible bits of 'Times Up' and leaves the impossible bits to somebody who can.

Start: At any of the Vermin Starts, take your pick but i suggest the easy one.

FA: G Hill, 2000

FA: Steve Bullen, 1990

FA: Steve Bullen, 1990

Classic blunt arete. Soft 6 for 'Nowra'.

FA: Ant Prehn, 1989

Start a few meters right of Sid Vicious. Up the wall to the single U anchor.

FA: Mark Woodard, 1997

Up Steve Jones then into the original aided line to top. Really good lay aways rave rave rave etc!

FA: G Hill

Right a couple of meters from 'Steve Jones' at the off set. Good moves at the top where it joins 'Paul Cook'.

Start: The old Giles and Ant aid route now fully operational.

FA: Giles, 2000

Easiest if you continue to the bottom of the descent track, then follow the tracks left, and back up.

It is possible to follow the cliff line around from the previous routes, but it involves a 4-5m corner at around grade 15

Very popular. It is a bit easier (22) if you retreat to the flake on the right at the crux. But, this seems like most obvious thing to do, and going direct seems a little contrived. If you want to rip the dodgy flake off then don't go direct otherwise grit your teeth and go direct for a safer experience.

FA: Graeme Hill & Veronique Hill, 1989

24 surely?

FA: Graeme Hill & Veronique Hill, 1989

A bit goey at the crux.

FA: G Hill

Ricky put some new bolts in. Classic !! Not too hard for a Nowra 4

FA: Ant Prehn & Alex Simon, 1989

Possibly the best route on the wall. Not too cruxy, and long enough to get a good pump.

FA: Rod Young, 1998

Up the corner and flake to the suspended flake. Continue up to jug headwall.

Start: Start just R of 'Access Chimney' at arete.

FA: Ant Prehn, Rod Young & Alex Simon, 1990

FA: Rod Young & Phil Pisanu, 1990

FA: Rod Young, 2000

FA: Ant Prehn, 1990

Climb the slab beneath the cave passing a nice flake. Continue above cave tending slightly left to a flake, then back in line to lower-offs.

Start: Start 2m right of BW

FA: Tony Lindley, 2000

Balance your way up passing 7 RBs. Finish at the larger U bolt or link into the top of L'arch

Start: Start 2m right of LA

FA: Mark Woodard, 1996

Adds a grade twenty start to Mcstagger or at second bolt you can join Alien Space monster

Start: Off the ground just to left of pillar

FA: Rick Phillips & Jamie Mennie, 2000

Up and left to flake and up the obvious pinnacle on the wall. Finish at ledge. 'Extension' is 'TMc'.

Start: Start as for 'ASM'.

FA: Stephen Hawkshaw, 2003

start as for ASM. go left up pinnicle (14) to small ledge then follow rings up steep rock with small sharp holds

FA: Stephen Hawkshaw, 2003

Straight up wall veering slightly right past 4 bolts to lower off as for 'Mc'.

Start: Start as for 'ASM'.

FA: Stephen Hawkshaw, 2004

FA: Paul Westwood, 1990

FA: Rod Young & Sue Young, 1989

In the cave opposite ASM pinacle.

FA: Will Watkins, 2000

Start a meter left of Spinning Blades, Clip the bolt first, then continue out along the hanging rib before eventually heading up

FA: Rod Young, 1998

Start for Sheriff, then head left out to the lip below ASM and up the wall

FA: Rod Young, 1997

Start as for Spinning Blades and take the lower line of bolts between Sheriff and Spinning Blades, to join the latter at the no-hands rest

FA: Garth Miller, 1990

Start at the right side of the pillar and follow the jugs out to the left. Use the rings.

FA: Mike Myers, 1990

Start as for Spinning Blades, but head straight up.

FA: Mark Woodard, 1996

Start on the right arete of the cave. Follow the lip up to the crack, then straight up this

FA: G Hill

FA: Garth Miller, 1993

FA: Ant Prehn & Giles Bradbury, 1990

The bolted crackline

FA: Mark Woodard, 1997

Quite a unique climb with a particularly tricky mantle shelf and a stiff little ending.

Start: A few meters to the right of the wide crack S&MAA

FA: V Hill

FA: Graeme Hill, 1997

Was 3 bolt project

FA: G Hill Fat Mark

FA: Mark Woodard, 1996

FA: Mark Woodard, 1996

Start about 2m left of 'Joy Mitten'. Climb the unlikely looking wall to small ledge then continue slightly left and on up the arete.

FA: G Hill

Better finish to Joy mitten. Goes all the way!

FA: G Hill

FA: Mark Woodard, 1996

FA: Open, 2000

This unit soughts out the new routers from the Look Mum I Gotta Drill Crowd! It and the next route make CC a redundant traverse in the middle of the wall. How i love making your route finding errors into the directissima.

Start: Same as the CC marked on the rock which is about 4 meters right of the 'Fizzbomb' arete.

FA: G Hill, 2000


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