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Description

A pleasant, shady area with some good routes and a stand of trees.

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Approach

Just before the main path reaches the northernmost point of Legoland is a path to the left that leads through a passage into the atrium. Kmart Special is on the left and California Dreaming on the right as you go through the passage.

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Tags

Some content has been provided under license from: © Canberra Climbers' Association (CC BY-SA) © ANU Moutaineering Club (Creative Commons Attribution-Share Alike)

Routes

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Grade Route

Cheap, nasty and totally worthless. The seam and crack on the steep side of the passage into the atrium, opposite 'California Dreaming'. Protect with cams in the horizontal break.

FA: Mike Law-Smith, 1987

One of the better, if typically short, cracks at 'Legoland'. The obvious crack in the right (western) wall of the passage into the atrium. Walk right and scramble to descend.

FA: Norm Booth & Ray Lassman, 1974

This has probably been done before but is worth recording as it is fun and serves as a great warm up for the area. Start standing on the flake just off the ground about 2 metres right of 'The Renaissance Man'. Traverse right along the horizontal crack past 'California Dreaming' to top out at the far right of the wall.

Short slab arete with a hard start.

Set by Duncan Brown

FFA: Duncan Brown, Nov 2016

Near the California Dreaming passage is a corner with a leftward leaning crack. Step off the boulder and climb the crack to a tree belay as for California Dreaming.

FA: Ray Lassman & Norm Booth, 1975

1 29
2 17

A good trad pitch on perfect rock with ample protection and amazing movement.

Frees the old aid climb "Information".

  1. Start up the off width corner, 'Oleo' and then traverse left along the finger crack that trends slightly downwards. Perfect gear all along the crack although hard to place on lead in many places so running out the cruxes is the way to go. Technical movement on bad feet and flaring, slopey finger locks along almost the whole route is the name of the game. Finish at the far left arête and do the second pitch from there.

  2. From the far left arete, continue to follow the rising crack traverse to the far left of this wall and top out to the summit from there. Technical, balancey movement for the grade and good small cams for protection. Trad belays.

FFA: Duncan Brown, 8 Jan 2017

The horizontal line left of 'Oleo'.

  1. 25 metres (15M3) - Free up 'Oleo' and aid horizontally to a hanging belay on the left arete.

  2. 15 metres (17) - Continue free along the diagonal line.

FA: Phil Georgeff & Mike Law-Smith, 1987

Opposite the Empty Step slab a thin crack leads to a ledge. Slab and mantle past a bolt to the top. Bouldery crux may make for a tricky onsight. First couple of ascents used small wires, BD3-5. Take cams, BD0.3-1 to belay off at the top. Scramble down the back to get off.

FFA: James Lister, Nov 2016

The wall with three bolts to lower-offs. A thin crux past the first bolt.

FA: Adam Blizzard & Neil Montgomery, 1987

A pleasant climb up the arete right of Empty Step with four bolts to lower-offs.

FA: Neil Montgomery & Adam Blizzard, 1987

The best climb at 'Legoland'. The obvious rightward diagonal crack on the face right of Pas de Deux. Move off left to belay at the Pas de Deux anchor.

FA: John Smart & Ajax Greene, 1978

As for Easy Wind and keep heading right under the overlap. A very good continuation in the same style.

FA: Mike Law-Smith & John Smart, 1982

Originally a stick and RP aid problem up the left leaning crack which joins 'Easy Wind'. It is now free with the aid of a chipped foothold, but the bouldery start is still protected in the same manner.

FA: Pat Butler & Greg Pritchard, 1980

FFA: Mike Law-Smith, 1988

The arete left of Ace High. Start from adjacent boulder, reach first bolt then step on and right to the slab and up past 3 bolts to a trad anchor and then walk off.

Set by Ray Spencer & Duncan Brown, Nov 2016

FFA: Ray Spencer & Duncan Brown, Nov 2016

Walk up the rather slick slab. Start: opposite 'Rentokill Surprise'.

FA: Ray Lassman & Norm Booth (solo), 1974

The slab right of 'Ace High'.

FA: Ray Lassman & Norm Booth (solo), 1974

This is a serious and commiting, ungraded highball. Down through the hole right of 'Running Flush' to the hidden courtyard. Immediately through the entrance hole and on your left there is a short steep wall capped with a high slab. Start on the obvious big feature, move right, mantle the lip and quest up the high slab, exiting top left. Do not use the wall behind you, but it is there as a safety net if you freak out halfway up. Some hollow flakes to be wary of and top rope pre-inspection is highly recommended.

Set by Patrick John Reynolds, Nov 2016

FFA: Patrick John Reynolds, Nov 2016

Right of 'Running Flush' there is a slot down in between the large boulders, through a small hole that puts you in a courtyard platform in the middle of the cluster of boulders. On the right side (facing the valley) in the open courtyard you will find a short, overhanging off width crack. Take a 3, 4, 5 and 6 Camelot to protect. Trad belay and easy walk off. Feisty little number!

Set by Duncan Brown, Nov 2016

FFA: Duncan Brown, Nov 2016

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