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Approach

These routes all start on a boulder platform. From the Poachers area, walk into the cave to the right of Bad Press, then around behind the Famous Redheads boulder. Scramble up and out through the western window of the cave onto the platform. You will emerge between 'Going Grey' and 'Stepping Out'.

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Routes

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Grade Route

The following climbs are up an undercut slab with numerous bolts inside the cave.

To the right of 'Bad Press' is an entrance to the cave. This route is directly ahead of you as you enter the cave.

Straight up the wall.

FA: Ben Jones

A short friction traverse on an undercut slab.

Up to the first bolt and traverse across. A hard move, then up easily to the top of the boulder.

FA: John Carlson, Mike Peck & Peter Fisk, 1984

The following lines start between S&I and the window to the platform

In the open courtyard inside the cave complex before scrambling up to ' Stepping Out'. On the northern side of the open courtyard. Bolts up the crimpy wall to a rappel station on top as for 'Anakey to Life', etc. Project: Duncan Brown.

Set by Duncan Brown, Nov 2016

In the open courtyard inside the cave complex before scrambling up to ' Stepping Out'. On the southern side of the open courtyard. Bolts and gear up the wall and huge hanging boulder to a trad belay on top. Project: Duncan Brown.

Set by Duncan Brown, Nov 2016

The obelisk.

This is another high and serious addition from Pat Reynolds. Deep in the large main cave underneath Legoland, entered from The Platform sector, at the far end of the cave is a tall feature that looks like a fish head that looms over a serious landing. Start up the small slab to the lower jaw of the fishes head, then compression climbing up the upper jaw to top out over the top of the head and down climb easily off the back. This problem has serious consequences if a fall is taken so top rope inspection and lots and lots of pads are highly recommended.

Set by Patrick John Reynolds, Nov 2016

FFA: Patrick John Reynolds, Nov 2016

The following routes start on the platform. From Smear and Innuendo duck under the blocks, and climb up the cairn to get out the window overlooking the valley.

Start just outside and to the right of the entrance to the cave, about 10 metres right of 'Bad Press'. Step off the boulders in the gully, then up the wall. Has grown an additional two bolts with the rebolting effort in 2017

FA: Mike Peck & John Carlson, 1984

Right of Famous Redheads and left of Going Grey. Step left into the start of the crack; follow it then slab above past six bolts to a bolt belay.

FA: Daniel Gordon & Oliver Story, 4 Nov 2012

Start on the boulder opposite 'Moonbeam'. Stick clip the first bolt. A tricky and bouldery start then up the arete past three bolts to rap anchor.

FA: Neil Montgomery & Adam Blizzard, 1987

A short, pleasant escape route from the top of the 'Famous Redheads' boulder. Up the slab with one bolt. Belay on gear.

FA: Adam Blizzard & Neil Montgomery, 1987

Start on the boulder platform in the western window of the cave. Clip a bolt and step up left into the flared chimney. Easily up this or the slab ("friable and unprotected"!! - Simon Carter) on the right. Double bolt belay.

FA: Neil Montgomery & Adam Blizzard, 1987

Friable holds on the wall two metres right of 'Stepping Out'. Move left onto the arete after the third bolt. Double bolt belay.

FA: Adam Blizzard & Neil Montgomery, 1987

The bolt ladder three metres right of 'Moonbeam'. Nice moves up a steep arete. Double bolt belay. Your decision whether to start on the boulder or from a bit lower, possibly a bit harder if so.

FA: Simon Carter & Mike Peck, 1987

Starts 10 metres right of 'Forbidden Fruits', on the opposite side of the same boulder. Step across the gap, up the twin cracks, then left up the leftwards slanting off-width cum chimney. A large cam increases confidence.

FA: Liam Mack, Cathy Styles, Adam Blizzard & Neil Montgomery, 1988

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