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Description

The Belfry is the prominent spire at the southeastern end of the ridge. Crystal Voyager climbs the overhanging arete that stands out when you arrive.

The climbs are described in a generally left to right direction, starting on the east side.

There is a rap anchor on the summit - 30m to ground going down the west face. It's possible (but awkward) to abseil the other way with a shorter rope, ending up in 'The Belfry Access Route' gully. It is possible to chimney and scramble down from about halfway up 'The Belfry Access Route', which is a suitable descent for some climbs on the eastern side.

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Approach

The best approach is to park 100m after the final hairpin bend in the road. Walk uphill to the ridgeline, turn left and follow the fairly prominent track south for a few hundred metres. It is also possible to walk all the way along the ridge from the 'Tower Rocks' carpark (the track starts about five metres along the path down to 'Tower Rocks').

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Tags

Some content has been provided under license from: © Canberra Climbers' Association (CC BY-SA) © ANU Moutaineering Club (Creative Commons Attribution-Share Alike)

Routes

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Grade Route

Start about 15 metres left of the east entrance to the east-west passageway. The thin crack up the brushed wall takes lots of dubious small wires, which are desperate to place.

FA: John Smart & Dave Sargent, 1985

A great position, not a bad route! In the east-west passageway. Chimney up past four bolts.

FA: Craig Kentwell, Tony Barten & Dick Rambone, 1990

Just right of the east-west passageway is a small, thin corner with one bolt (carrot) up high.

FA: John Smart, 1978

The prominent overhanging corner crack.

FA: Norm Booth & Ray Lassman, 1978

Start three metres right of 'The Bat', cranking up the wall and arete past six bolts to lower-off.

FA: Tony Barten & Andrew Bull, 1990

The orange wall with four bolts, 5 metres right of 'Heroes In A Hatshell. The crux is getting off the ground.

FA: Tony Barten & Andrew Bull, 1990

The easiest way to the top. Wander up a series of chimneys, starting near 'Return of the Etrier', to a ledge. Climb the mossy slab from the ledge to the summit (poorly protected).

FA: Unknown

A razor thin seam. Start 10m left of the Crystal Voyager arete. The first 10m is fairly overhung using micro cams for the first 3m. The crack then closes to accept small to medium beaks and #1 lost arrows. Climb through the bulge on more beaks and up the vertical wall on more beaks, pin stacks, fixed heads and a few RPs to a slopey mantle on top. Once through the bulge don't zipper any gear as you will bounce off the adjacent car sized boulder at one third height. Grade A4+

FA: Chris Fitzgerald & Nathan Kukathas, 2005

The spectacular hanging arete. From the third bolt on 'Tracy-Anne', traverse left and launch dynamically up the overhanging arete past four more bolts to the top.

FA: Tony Barten, 1988

A really good route without a real crux but sustained. Takes the orange open book corner on the north side past five bolts. Optional small finger cam in the short crack at the top.

FA: Tony Barten, 1986

FFA: Tony Barten, John Carlson & Mike Peck, 1988

Start as for 'Tracy-Anne' to the second bolt, then traverse right and up past two more bolts to the arete.

FA: Mike Peck, 1988

Find your way to the top of the large boulder leaning against the western face (best approach from near 'West Face of the Belfry'). Straight up to the second bolt then move left and up past two more bolts to the easy arete and slab to finish.

FA: Mike Peck & David Graham, 1987

Start as for 'Scoop'. Up the slab past three bolts, then right to a ledge and a welcome rest (gear). Move back left and easily up to chains on the summit.

FA: Tony Barten & Mike Peck, 1986

Start as for 'Scoop'. The line of scoops to the right of 'Chinatown' with five bolts and a technical finish on good holds.

FA: Anthony Budd & Ben Jones, 1990

Starts at a short crack. Pass many bolts up the slab to lower-off. Re-equipped but still waiting for a clean ascent.

A "modern masterpiece" featuring chipped holds by Mike Law-Smith and (Once upon a time) spray paint by Gordon Poultney. Follow the line of chipped holds on the west face with six bolts. The old masters might regret their energetic youth, but it still climbs well!

FA: Mike Law-Smith & Tony Barten, 1986

Just left of The Belfry is a vague scoop with a couple of bolts (first one missing its hanger at time of writing). Details unknown.

The original route on the crag, first climbed with a point of aid. Start at the crack about 10 metres right of the 'West Face of Belfry'.

  1. 25 metres - Climb the crack, step left and up another crack and through the bulge to a ledge. A short corner (about 19) leads directly to the top from here, but the original route traverses right.

  2. 25 metres - Move across the slab to a small ledge, traverse right around the corner (don't look down!) to gain the 'helter-skelter' ramp leading to the top. Poorly protected.

FA: Peter Cocker & A. Sternberk, 1973

Just left of the Skin It Back alcove, on the valley side, is this line of shiny bolts up a vertical wall. Rumoured to be an old Matt Rizzuto project. There is also a single bolt to its right, which would make a hard bouldery start to the arete above.

The wall with three bolts left of 'Skin it Back'. Bolt belay.

FA: Neil Montgomery & Adam Blizzard, 1990

The beautiful little corner hidden in a boulder filled alcove near south-east end of the outcrop, on the valley side.

FA: John Smart, 1978

The short arete on the boulder across the alcove from 'Skin it Back', with three bolts. Use of the boulder on the left has been proscribed. Bolt belay on top.

FA: Rohan Hyslop & David Jenkins, 1988

"This may have lager appeal." - Ken Luck. On the bottom (valley side) of the boulder is a wall with two bolts. The crux is after the second.

FA: David Jenkins & Rohan Hyslop, 1988

The right-hand of two 'cracks' a few metres right of 'Pale Ale'.

FA: John Smart & Norm Booth, 1978

Activity

Check out what is happening in The Belfry.