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Summary

The clean granite boulders here provide quite a few short, good quality climbs.

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Description

Sentinel Rocks is a very pleasant place indeed. The routes are described in an anti-clockwise direction starting on the uphill side with 'Blood on the Cracks' and finishing with 'Little Lamb Dragonfly'.

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Approach

Sentinel Rocks is situated above and beyond 'Trojan Wall', about 300 metres further along the Ridge from the descent gully, but only 50 metres from the northern end of 'Trojan Wall'.

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Tags

Some content has been provided under license from: © Canberra Climbers' Association (CC BY-SA) © ANU Moutaineering Club (Creative Commons Attribution-Share Alike)

Routes

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Grade Route

about 10m left of 'Blood on the Cracks' is a short, slightly overhanging crack.

A pumpy diagonal crack varying from hand to off-width and requiring 10, 13 and 14cm tubes. Start left of 'The Bannister'.

FA: Kim Carrigan & Rick McGregor, 1977

The chimney with a slanting crack in the left wall. Belay from a flaky bollard, as for 'Lazy Dynamite'.

FA: Ray Lassman & Norm Booth, 1974

Start five metres right of 'Blood on the Cracks'. Climb a short wall (crux) and slab past three bolts to a bolt belay. Very mossy as of February 2014.

FA: David Dempsey & Brendan Boyd, 1993

A few meters left of Luvly A nice looking horizontal break with a finger crack above. Comes in from the left to start

FA: Dane Evans, 16 Sep 2017

The short crack 10 metres right of 'Groping in the Dark'.

FA: Norm Booth, Ray Lassman & John Smart (solo), 1974

The slab just left of 'Cat Scratch'.

FA: Ray Lassman (solo), 1975

The thin crack up the slab. Well protected.

FA: Ray Lassman & co., 1975

The slab right of 'Cat Scratch'.

FA: Ray Lassman & Norm Booth, 1975

A nice slab and groove 10m right of 'Cat Scratch'.

FA: Norm Booth & Ray Lassman, 1975

Dismal, possibly the worst 'climb' in the ACT! Start five metres right of 'Groovin' High'. Up the slab past two bolts then move left to the tree, swarm up this and up the groove to belay.

FA: Craig Kentwell & Adam Blizzard, 1988

Most enjoyable. The steep and strenuous corner crack on the orange wall around the corner, starting from a flat boulder.

Bolt anchor at top on ridge. Rap off or descend by walking ridge to farthest end and scrambling down blocks.

FA: Ray Lassman & Norm Booth, 1974

The line of bolts one metre right of 'Power Cat'; a bad joke even by sports climbing standards.

FA: Unknown

Scary, committing and poorly protected (in contrast to the last 'climb'). Start three metres right of 'Power Cat' at an incipient seam. Up the orange wall and left along the horizontal break to finish. Take small RPs for the wall and a large cam for the traverse.

FA: Adam Blizzard & Mike Peck, 1988

Deep sieged and very sharp. Start right of 'Power Cat' at an obvious corner. Climb the corner past three bolts to a ledge (medium cam), step right and clip a bolt, then up right to another ledge (#1 Friend). Move left and up to a bolt belay.

FA: Mike Peck, 1988

Pleasant enough. Takes the wall and prominent sickle shaped arete 20 metres right of 'Power Cat'.

  1. 10m (20) - Up the wall past three bolts to a spacious ledge with bolt belay.

  2. 15m (18) - Climb the right side of the arete to a stance, then step left around the arete to an easier slab. Rap anchor back 5m.

FA: Neil Montgomery & Adam Blizzard, 1987

Start just right of the double bolt belay on 'Lartigue'. Climb up the wall past a bolt to a slab and another bolt. Move up right then back left and mantle to finish. Walk back to the bolt belay on 'Lartigue'.

FA: Mike Peck & Adam Blizzard, 1987

The curving hand crack down and right from 'Lartigue'. Rap back down or finish up 'Rolling Thunder'.

FA: Ian Thomas & Ray Lassman, 1975

Start two metres left of 'Rolling Thunder'. Climb the arete and wall with three bolts to lower-off.

FA: Mike Peck, 1989

Start beneath the massive wall, well below and right of 'Banana Bender'.

  1. 15 metres (16) - Up the crack-flake system to a crux 'swimming pool' mantle onto an enormous ledge. Bolt belay.

  2. 10 metres (14) - From the rap anchor at the far end of the ledge, climb the ramp then traverse easily to bolt belay on Lartigue.

FA: Adam Blizzard, Tallis Didcott & Carl Binning, 1988

In marked contrast to the impressive wall above! The arete on the big boulder 10 metres right of 'Rolling Thunder'. Chimney up to the bolt (if you're tall enough) then climb the arete. Bolt belay.

FA: Neil Montgomery & Adam Blizzard, 1988

Start on the large boulder with a tree growing up it, directly behind the massive wall. Climb the arete on the right with a nice juggy finish. Take a #3 RP and a sling and belay from the tree.

FA: Adam Blizzard & Mike Peck, 1987

Probably the best route of the crag. Start 10 metres downhill and right of 'Planet'. Climb up the groove to a bolt then right and up the arete. Move right to another bolt and then hand traverse right and reach up for a jug. Pull onto the slab and up to the tree belay as for 'Planet'.

FA: Mike Peck, Adam Blizzard (yo-yo) & Ken Luck, 1988

There are two climbs in the central chimney that runs from the left of the cat scratch slab to near Inversion

Start on a triangular ledge on the valley end of the central chimney, near 'Effigy'. Climb the corner and wall with two bolts.

FA: Mike Peck & Adam Blizzard, 1988

The crack near the centre of the chimeny, about 6m right of KP with a marked start at ground level. You can get access too the bottom via a downclimb near the log bridge, or by climbing up through he bottom of the chimney left of Inversion, or probably more easily rap in from above and reclaim your gear once you are back up

FA: Ray Lassman & Norm Booth, 1975

Start below a flake to the left of 'Lazy Dynamite'.

  1. 20 metres - climb the flake and through the chimney to a bollard belay.

  2. 10 metres - Move up and to the right.

FA: Norm Booth, Ray Lassman (alt.) & John Smart, 1974

The prominent off-width crack right of the central chasm. Climb the crack and exit right to belay from a flaky bollard.

FA: Norm Booth & Ray Lassman, 1974

An exciting, poorly protected climb up the right edge of the huge flake on the valley side, seen as you walk towards 'Sentinel Rocks'. Start from the ledge six metres right, traverse left and climb the flake, then left and up to finish as for 'Lazy Dynamite'. There is a direct crack start (grade 17).

FA: Ray Lassman, Norm Booth & John Smart, 1974

Adds even more excitement to the original! From the top of the flake (triple sling runner), climb straight up the slab with a steep start. Chock belay.

FA: Adam Blizzard & Neil Montgomery, 1988

Incredibly unsustained and worthless. Find your way onto the large platform right of 'Little Lamb Dragonfly' and climb the arete on the left past one bolt.

FA: John Churchill, Rohan Heisler & Robert Wall, 1989

Walk away from 'the Bannister', there's a freestanding boulder about 40m from the main walls.

Overgrown. The very short diagonal boulder problem just right of the track from the tower, with a hard start.

FA: John Smart, Ajax Greence & Ray Lassman, 1978

The (now) moss covered wall a few metres left of 'Shoot for the Loot'.

FA: Ray Lassman, 1978

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